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Changing Fork Oil

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New CRF450r. Manual says to change foil oil after 2 hrs riding. I'm not going to be doing any 90ft triples anytime soon, or 10 ft for that matter. So Do I still need to change the oil that soon if I'm not gonna be using them to thier potential? If so, do I need to disassemble the tubes completly or can I just pull the fork off, pop the cap and drain oil. Measure what comes out and top back of with new fluid? Will doing it this way drain the inner tube as well?

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You should dissasemble the whole intire fork when changing your fork fluid, so that you can clean all the contaminated fluid off of all the fork parts. If you get a service manual for your bike, it will show you step by step on how to dissasemble your forks and the proper amount of fork fluid that they will need when you reassemble them. 👍

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Every 2 hours is way too frequent. I do my forks and shock every 10-15 hours. 👍

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On a brand new bike 2 hours is a good rule of thumb. Take the fork off the bike.

After initial break in, like mentioned above, 10 hrs. is fine. Personally I change the outer every 5, and do both the outer and damper at 10.

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Oops, my bad. Should have opened my eyes:bonk:. Its brand new, not new to him. Yeah I did my forks the day I bought it. The honda dealer didn't put any tranny fluid in my bike, half the bearings were dry, and one fork had twice as much fluid as the other did. After the break in just take care of them every 10-15 hours, and don't forget about the damper like The Captain mentioned and you should be good.👍

Just an after thought.......... You would love yourself if you sent the suspension out and had it set up for your weight and ability.🤣 Best money ever spent on a bike is in the suspension.

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After the break in just take care of them every 10-15 hours, and don't forget about the damper like The Captain mentioned and you should be good.👍

Just an after thought.......... You would love yourself if you sent the suspension out and had it set up for your weight and ability.🤣 Best money ever spent on a bike is in the suspension.

Well, fortunate for me, MCR is about 5 minutes from my house. I called them yesterday and told them my info and they gave me the settings to change to over the phone. They said the stock springs should work for me at this time and just some adjustmenst should be needed. I changed all my clickers and checked my sag: Race was 4" and stacic was 1.25", so I think I'm good there. Bike is still alittle tall for me, but I'll ride it first and see how it feels. I just did the 2nd break in ride (30 min) and I'm very pleased with the power. Lots there, but very managable. Gonna do the 45 min ride tonite and change the oil, then I'm puttin' it in the kitchen to she if she can deliver the mail 🙂.

Captain, how do I just change the Outer fluid? Do I just pull the fork tube off, pop the cap and drain, measure what came out and fill back up? And is your 10 hr fluid changed based on 10 hrs of hitting 90 triples or 10 hrs of trail riding? I'm gonna be riding trails and if I gotta do the oil every 5/10 hrs, that will be every other weekend.

The owners manual I got was called a "Competition Handbook" and has the complete breakdown on how to change the fork oil. After going thru that and watching some YouTube videos I saw posted here on the topic, It doesn't look to hard. The outer tube wrench I'm gonna make here at work, in which I will incorporate the bottom dampener holder thingie in the other end (I have a few very expensive laser machines that cut cool stuff). But where can I find the Nut looking insert to remove the inner dampener?

Edited by Salmonbum

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Captain, how do I just change the Outer fluid? Do I just pull the fork tube off, pop the cap and drain, measure what came out and fill back up? And is your 10 hr fluid changed based on 10 hrs of hitting 90 triples or 10 hrs of trail riding? I'm gonna be riding trails and if I gotta do the oil every 5/10 hrs, that will be every other weekend.

Your owners manual should outline the procedure and give you oil quantity options, I prefer 5wt belray.

Remove front wheel, and hang front caliper off to the side. Remove the handlebar clamp nuts, loosen the top triple bolts. Lift the handlebar approx. an inch which will allow you to get a fork cap wrench on there to loosen it. Loosen the bottom triple clamp bolts and pull the forks out. Fully loosen the cap with one hand while holding the tube with the other, then drain. I prefer to drain both forks for at least and hour. Fill with fluid and reverse procedure. When I do the damper I also remove the cartridge and spring to clean everything real well with parts cleaner and then let air dry.

You can purchase a cap wrench and damper holder kit anywhere. Tusk makes a cheap kit, it's about $15 or so.

My oil change intervals are based on no trail, all mx.

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Yamaha's spec is after the first ride.

I believe it is in KYBs assembly of the units. They want them inspected and especially the oil height. Thus this quick service interval. A lot of Yamaha's with the KYB SSS forks came with the wrong oil heights, different in both forks and the lower base bolt being lose. So it is a good idea to tear into them asap.

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So when doing just the outer tube (not the dampener) you remove cap, drain, and then fill with whatever the manual calls for? Bolt back up and go ride........ With the small holes in the dampener I thought that you might loose a bit of oil from that.

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Why not change the damper oil as well?

You don't remove a cap, you remove the whole damper assembly. The damper oil won't come out unless you remove the damper cap/spring assembly as there is a seal beneath the spring. There will be oil in the damper that will come out of the bleed holes when tipped over.

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Yeah I got that, but like the capatin says he changes his dampener oil every other change. I want to know how to do JUST the outer part correctly.

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Race was 4" and stacic was 1.25", so I think I'm good there. QUOTE]

You might need to re-spring that as 31mm of static is a bit much. Usually, its 10-25mm static when your race sag is correct.

Joe

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You might need to re-spring that as 31mm of static is a bit much. Usually, its 10-25mm static when your race sag is correct.

Joe

6mm isn't much, or at least a newbie like me to notice. When I did the measurement I bounced the bike a few times. I'm sure if I yanked it off the stand it would be 20-25mm. If anything a crank on the spring would bring that back up since my race sag is on the high side. Problem I have is being 5-7" the dang thing is too tall. I really gotta ride the damn thing and get some hrs on it before I do too much tweaking.

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the problem is if the factory got air in the inner chamber thus not bleeding it correctly, you are not going to fix any of the issues with the forks.

Do both inner and outer.

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I always do inner and outer, but I certainly go longer than 10 hours. I change oil and seals whenever the seals leak because of trapped dirt/sand in the seals, which on average works out to about 25 hour intervals.

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I change fork oil on about 25 hour intervals. The prepped tracks around here are pretty easy on fork seals. Dried on mud is a seal's worst enemy.

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also when you wash your bike wipe down the fork legs so they don't have water spots on them. this will help preserve your seals. every 25 hrs. on the forks is what I do and I tend to do the shock at the same time. do the inner chamber every other time is o.k. and will speed up the process. I also use maxima oils and use the cheaper of the maxima fork oils with great results. No need for $25 a quart oils.

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