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You can change the fork fluid and make sure that you have the maximum spec for quantity of fork fluid that the manual specifies. Put in a good quality fork fluid. That is a good place to start-new fork fluid is always a good thing! Air in the fork is not the best way to do it. If you have never changed the fluid before pay close attention to the manual and make sure to loosen the upper triple clamp bolts before taking the fork caps off!

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My 1999 xr200r forks are soft how do i make them stiffer? Do i just add air to the forks?👍

Wow that is a loaded question!!

1. Check static and rider sag, do a search. Add PVC spacers to change fork spring preload, the rear shock has an adjusting nut.

2. Previous post on fork oil. Some have gone to 7wt oil for a more compliant ride, I know one who has used 5wt in damper rod forks.

3. Consider stiffer springs, and/or earlier XR200 damper rods for more travel.

4. Add Racetech Emulators to the forks.

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  • 2 months later...

What years and models of Fork Springs will work for my 1983 Honda XR200R?

I have been reading the posts for the CR conversion, but not ready to do that yet. At the parts supplier websites I have been to the first year listed is for the 1984 XR200R, will these work?

I know the engines are completely different on 1984-85 XR200R's but what about the suspension and chassis?

Thanks in advance.

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In 93 Honda reduced the travel of the XR200 forks from 10" to 8.2", (and again in 00 to 7.3"). RaceTech's website shows a change in forks in 84 for the XR200, from 35mm to 36mm, 36mm was used thru 02. But Honda's spec show the travel as about the same 81-90 so I suspect the springs will interchange. Bad news is Racetech say they all used the same rate springs at .31kg, which might be a bit light although I'm currently running .32kg spring in my USD forks and I don't have bottoming issues and I like the plush ride, but the travel is 10.8".

I've used two rate springs from Progressive but I think initially you should work on getting the sag correct and then fuss with oil level for bottoming resistance. Adding air pressure to adjust sag will also work, and Honda says up to 15psi, but that is a maintenance PITA so I recommend against it.

Using thicker oil to reduce bottoming is not a good idea because that will make the forks harsh.

A word of caution on conversion forks; if you use early CR forks you will only gain travel because they also use damper rod to control damping, orifice damping with equal damping on compression and rebound. Late conventional forks and USDs use a cartridge to control damping like a shock on a car, different damping on compression and rebound with out the hydraulic lock problems of orifice damping. The problem is most of the cartridge forks are for MX bikes which use greater damping levels than trail riding so they will need revalving. You can get near the same damping control by installing RaceTech emulators in damper rod forks.

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