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valve adjustments


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I'm about to adjust my valves on my 600 and I seem to be having a slight issue. I have read a few documents online and in the manual and have read about the "true tdc" to adjust valves from. The problem is if I use the kick start I can never seem to get the "T" mark perfect. It is always just before and if I move the kick a little more it goes just past. I put her up on a bike stand and have put it in gear and I can make fine adjustments to the crank possition using the rear wheel. Is this ok to do it that way?

Also I'm finding it extremely hard to actually read the gap space as the feeler gauge is rubbing and grabbing on the valve cover hole. Do you usually just adjust the valve clearance so it binds tightly on the feeler gauge then just adjust back until you can slide it slightly or will this still be too tight?

And as for the decomp lever interfering with the right exhaust adjustmet can I just remove the cable to ensure it isn't interfering or will that still make an issue? As it is set up now there is about a 8mm free play at the motor end. Is this ok for valve adjustments?

Thanks in advance for the help

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If you have the manual then why are you doing the tappets using the kickstart. Remove the two inspection plates from the Stator cover,,Bottom LH side of the engine, then get a 19mm socket onto the bolt you can see in the larger hole to rotate the engine. Remove the Spark plug next as it makes it easier to rotate the motor without all that compression to deal with. Rotate the engine/crank anticlockwise and line up the T mark on the flywheel with the datum mark on the smaller inspection hole on the bottom casing. You will be needing a torch to see the T mark on the Flywheel. When you are on TDC on the compression stroke and the T's lined up both sets of tappets should be moveable slightly up and down..the front right may appear slightly tight but if the lefts loose and so are the rest then that's TDC of the compression stroke. Adjust the tappets then..Remember always rotate the engine anticlockwise to get to TDC ..Chuck a chopstick down the sparkplug hole as that'll show you for sure whether the Pistons at the top of the stroke..Remember the tappets should be slightly movable up and down when you adjust them..the exception being that front right. Use your feeler gauge and adjust them to the manuals specs..and 8mm sounds way off..Check the manual. ..think its ..na. can't recall, and can't be bothered getting a manual from the garage..Do a search ,,heaps of posts about valve/tappets here.

Edited by Horri
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The feeler gages should have some resistance when sliding them in. If adjusted right, you'll feel it rub a little bit and it you try the next bigger size, it just won't go in.

As said above, use the bolt in the center of the flywheel to turn the engine - only go counter clockwise or you can get false readings.

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Watch the intake rockers as you rotate the engine CCW, when they begin to close the piston is coming up on the compression stroke, continue to rotate the engine until the "T" mark is lined up in the notch. Be careful not to confuse the "F" mark with the "T" mark, a not uncommon mistake. Also, when removing the spark plug, be SURE to blow ALL the crud away from the base of the plug with compressed air. If any of the debris falls through the plug hole into the combustion chamber, damage is likely.

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When I used a socket to rotate the engine, I had the same problem with the engine rotating past the T mark.

I put the bike in a higher gear (4 or 5) and rotate the wheel to line up the engine. Works great for me, and was recommended by someone on this site.

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Thank you all for the replies. Yes rush I had read that some where in the past and gave it a go. What a differenece it makes using the wheel. Got them all adjusted, there was only a slight amount of play there any way. She fired straight away so I must have done something right. Haven't taken her for a run yet but I'll do that tomorrow to make sure she is all sweet. Thanks again for the replies.

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Just to chime in, I have never opened the timing covers to do a valve adjustment. While opening the covers is a good idea for people new to engines or motorcycles, it is not necessary. As long as the intake valves have closed, there is resistance in the kickstarter (compression) and there is some play in all the rockers, the valves can be adjusted. The piston may not be exactly at TDC on the compression stroke, but all 4 valves are completely closed and this is what matters most. Sometimes I put a bungee cord on the kickstarter (slight tension) to keep the motor from turning backward during the adjustment.

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