Ongoing 250 clutch issue :( HELP !!!

[dane_p]

am still having trouble with my rm 250 clutch.

it has always had a heavy feeling clutch (heavier than what a normal 250 rm has)

and when i put the bike in gear, the bike pull's slightly and i have to keep the rev's slightly higher or it die's, and is awkward to find neutral.

bearing in mind the bike only has 29 hours of use, none of which i have been able to abuse it !

have stripped the bike apart plenty of times, the clutch actuator arm is free, the plates have been micrometered (sp?) and are within limits easily - altho i could not check for warping, altho no discoloured steel plates etc.

clutch basket has no grooves in it at all.

springs + pressure plate seem ok.

used different oils to try - putoline light gear oil, and 10w 40 silkolene comp 4.

clutch cable is fine, tried loads of free play and vice versa.

Help me please !!!

[Tailender]

Take the clutch cover off and have someone pull the clutch lever in and watch the hub to see if it goes out to release some pressure. Your cable may be stretching and not pulling the clutch arm enough. Or may need more lube. Do you know if there are heavy duty springs? That may cause a heavier pull. An easy fix would be to get an MSR Raptor clutch lever. It is adjustable to easy pull, standard pull, and fast pull. I have one on both my bikes and really like the easy pull setting, which is why I got them in the first place.

[dane_p]

yeh have had the cover off and operte the clutch, the movement seem's normal to be honest. the bikes clutch is all standard.

maybe replacing the clutch springs will solve the issue ??

[tim2007]

Tis a weird one. Changing springs might help, but only if the ones in there are stiffer than standard. I also don't think that would cure the problem with it pulling when in gear (a search on here for clutch drag/dragging may be worth a try) as that shouldn't happen when it's disengaged anyway, no matter what strength springs you're compressing. Does it do this all the time or just when the engine is cold?

One thought- do you have the standard clutch lever & perch (on the handlebars)? I did meet something similar-ish once from a too-short lever that was oddly shaped & would hit the handlebar grip before the clutch had fully disengaged.

[dane_p]

yeh its worse when its cold to be honest, and can be a little grabby on disengaging.

[mihylo33]

stock plates?

[tim2007]

Mine was a bit like that when cold even though the plates were nowhere near the official wear limit- and new ones cured it - I'll measure up the old ones tomorrow (if I can find them...) so you can compare.

[mihylo33]

Mine was a bit like that when cold even though the plates were nowhere near the official wear limit- and new ones cured it - I'll measure up the old ones tomorrow (if I can find them...) so you can compare.

Thats because the stockers are crap aluminum and warp easily as well. I don't know why their plates are so bad.

[Vince_m_97]

I have an 04 rm250, had the same problems, tried all the fixes mentioned above to no avail. Found a simple fix from the WR forum called the .79 cent mod. Go to the hardware store, get a package of 6mm washers, take off the clutch cover, remove the pressure plate bolts one at a time, place 1 washer on each of the bolts making sure that it fits inside the clutch spring, then reinstall the bolt. Do this for each of the bolts and your troubles will be gone. I promise. Doing this prevents the clutch springs from binding up allowing the pressure plate to disengage fully.

One other thing, measure the thickness of each washer, you want .060 to .065.

[tim2007]

Mine was a bit like that when cold even though the plates were nowhere near the official wear limit- and new ones cured it - I'll measure up the old ones tomorrow (if I can find them...) so you can compare.

Just checked - my old friction plates which dragged a bit when cold (after almost 3 seasons of enduros & Hare n hounds, so can't complain) measured in the range 2.98-3.02mm. Service limit is 2.77mm according to the manual.

[dane_p]

ok will try the washers inside the springs, will it help with a lighter clutch feel ?

[Vince_m_97]

Don't know if the washers will help the heavy clutch feeling, maybe a good graphite lube in the cable will help. The washers WILL fix any clutch dragging or idle problems while in gear though. My clutch pulls real easy, and I lube it every 2-3 rides.

[haus12]

wouldnt that do the opposite? the washers would add more tension to the plate to engage better rather than disengage better?

correct me if im wrong as im having the same problem. its as if the push rod isnt long enough to push the plate out completely.

[peterbilt386]

I just bought a 2003 RM250 and have the same problem. Can anyone clairify do the washers work? im going to try it if it does. Thanks!

[wr450mazz]

I remember reading somewhere (******* it don't know...Eric Gorr maybe)

some RM250s had the missing ball in the rod and gave a hard pull and problems like yours.

Check again if it has a ball where the rod is and i think there was also a mod at the clutch shaft,the profile is smoothed out at the contact area of the ball/rod to help smooth out things.

Also have heard to replace the shaft and rod with a new one on here sometime ago

Worth a look.

Cheers..Mario

Edited June 13, 2010 by wr450mazz

[Doug Fugly]

Long time Suzuki rider here. Even with a quality aftermarket basket and good plates, the Suzy clutches are draggy... especially the 03 RM250 (I have one.) And I've found nothing better than OEM equipment.

I'm hard on clutches and have found that when they've been hot a few times (every 300-400 off road miles) the friction plates get a glaze on them. I remove the friction plates and use an ultra-fine-grit sandpaper placed on a flat surface, do a few figure 8's (lightly) with both sides of plates to remove glaze. Re-install, run automotive ATF type F... it'll perform like new. When dragginess returns, repeat.

The washer idea is interesting, never heard of this mod.