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Need to know if I did timing right? Want better low/mid

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So I got the required dial indicater, screwed it in tight, turned the flywheel till it reversed on the gauge, I set the zero on the gauge right at the point it reversed, I then turned the flywheel clockwise two lines off zero, and then loosend and turned the stator/timing till the timing marks lined up. I want 2 degrees retarded. Did I do this correctly??? I ride anywhere from sea level to 3000 feet, 175 Main, 45 pilot 1-1/2 out on the air screw and a JD red needle third clip down from top. I want to smooth out the power for trail ridding, I rode my buddys 02 that was bone stock and his bike pulled smooth all the way thru, It had great low end. My bike had a Boyesen Rad Valve, power wings front and rear and a FMF Gnarly, The low end was not there, but mid upper hit like a banshee! Not where I want my power, I want smooth low/mid. So I removed the Boyesen/power now and went back to stock.

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Doesn't sound like you retarded enough. Keep in mind each one mark on the dial gauge does not represent one degree of retard. On my gauge it was 7 marks for 2 degrees. Use the timing thread. There is no one that can explain it any better than that post.

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So I got the required dial indicater, screwed it in tight, turned the flywheel till it reversed on the gauge, I set the zero on the gauge right at the point it reversed, I then turned the flywheel clockwise two lines off zero, and then loosend and turned the stator/timing till the timing marks lined up. I want 2 degrees retarded. Did I do this correctly??? I ride anywhere from sea level to 3000 feet, 175 Main, 45 pilot 1-1/2 out on the air screw and a JD red needle third clip down from top. I want to smooth out the power for trail ridding, I rode my buddys 02 that was bone stock and his bike pulled smooth all the way thru, It had great low end. My bike had a Boyesen Rad Valve, power wings front and rear and a FMF Gnarly, The low end was not there, but mid upper hit like a banshee! Not where I want my power, I want smooth low/mid. So I removed the Boyesen/power now and went back to stock.

don,t retard your timing.set it to stock.this will give you more bottom end than retarded timing.

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Doesn't sound like you retarded enough. Keep in mind each one mark on the dial gauge does not represent one degree of retard. On my gauge it was 7 marks for 2 degrees. Use the timing thread. There is no one that can explain it any better than that post.

Read that thing five times! From what I gathered it was rite? Thats why I am asking. If zero was Top dead then two lines on the JJ&A dial indicater should be 2 degrees retarded?

.022 4 degrees advanced

.018 3 degrees advanced

.014 2 degrees advanced

.010 1 degree advanced

.007 Stock Setting

.004 1 degree retarded

.002 2 degrees retarded

.001 3 degrees retarded

.000 5 degrees retarded (the limit of travel of my stator)

-.001 7 degrees retarded (the 3 to 5 and 5 to 7 jump are correct due to rod angle)

-.002 8 degrees retarded

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Read that thing five times! From what I gathered it was rite? Thats why I am asking. If zero was Top dead then two lines on the JJ&A dial indicater should be 2 degrees retarded?

.022 4 degrees advanced

.018 3 degrees advanced

.014 2 degrees advanced

.010 1 degree advanced

.007 Stock Setting

.004 1 degree retarded

.002 2 degrees retarded

.001 3 degrees retarded

.000 5 degrees retarded (the limit of travel of my stator)

-.001 7 degrees retarded (the 3 to 5 and 5 to 7 jump are correct due to rod angle)

-.002 8 degrees retarded

OK yea I got mixed up I think. Sounds like you did it right. If you followed the thread then I would have faith that it is doen correctly.

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OK yea I got mixed up I think. Sounds like you did it right. If you followed the thread then I would have faith that it is doen correctly.

I think I did it right? Seems to run good down the street, will take her out this weekend to check seat of the pants feel.

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