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Pulse Generator 83 XR350 Spec?

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I'm confused on the accuracy of the service manual spec, The book states the ohm reading on the Pulse gen should be for 1983 540 +-27 Ohms.

Mine is reading a consistant 490Kohm off my fluke, bang it, slap it thing is a consistant 490Kohm bring a socket near it, it jumps up over 530Kohm

Um.. did china forget a few thousand here? or is that reading truely 540 OHMS? 👍

My stator is in spec according to the book, Lighting coil .03 to ground, and exciter is 73 Ohms to ground.

CDI checks out per manual, wiring is new and coil is in spec. Had a no spark condition when I was kickin, (I also ran twin grounds for assurance) Also someone stated air gap to pickup should be set - but manual makes no reference to spec the gap.

Thanks a bunch riders!

- Jay

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My 81-83 XR200R manual says 20-200ohms, I think this is first generation CDI with the CDI having pig tail wires. The next generation CDI has connectors on the CDI unit instead of pigtails.

My 84 and on Clymer Manual spec is 460-580ohms, so I think your OK.

Ignition coil primary is 0.1-0.3ohm

Secondary is 3.7k-4.5k and with the spark plug cap 7.3k-11k.

he most common cause of no spark is in order of frequency:

Bad plug, always try a fresh plug.

Bad kill switch or bad kill switch wiring.

Bad resistor in plug cap, take it out and replace with a 5-6mm copper or SS bolt shaft.

Bad core in plug wire at connector, unsrew the plug connector and cut 1/2" off plug wire then reinstall plug. This provides fresh core wire for the plug to screw into. (add some silicon or dielectric grease to help seal moisture from the connection, I also put a bit of dielectric grease on the spark plug.

Bad or corroded conections elsewhere in the ignition system. Inspect and clean, add dielectric grease.

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Replaced the gen today, spent the next few hours putting heli-coils in every hole on the side cover (so I dont have that day ) lost every push style connector and soldered/heat-shunk all the wiring, New coil wire (used resistor cable not solid but I did toss the extra resistor and replaced with a SS pin) put it together - kicked it over and magic! Huge blue spark.

Rest of the day was spent screwing with the aftermarket kicker which seemed to want to touch everything around it, and putting all the rest together, Low and behold I forgot the speedo gear, lil 10 min diversion.

I did retain the auto decompression, I know they are hated for failure but my cables are all brand new and I set the adjustment properly. I went .50 over with a weisco and it really is a beast to kick over even after bringing it past compression. I guess I'll learn its procedure later. I think the only thing left at this point beyond a new chain/spocket set and rubber is the rear mud guard, Mine the previous owner hacked it all up with a saw.

Any ideas where to locate one?

All in all it was a fun project... Next up is a 1987 KDX200 beat up with a super strong running motor, which I think will be a lot harder to find parts for.

-Jay

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I think you mean .05 over which my 350 is also, and it's an absolute pussycat to start.

Are you sure it's adjusted properly????

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Mind yes Im a half MM over the std 84mm bore, I assume in SAE this is .010 over stock.

What I was referring to in haste of writing was without the decompressor attached. I started it for the first time last night after rebuild, 4 kicks and it was up and running very easy to start with everything attached and adjusted, Hot start was pretty simple, No choke full throttle for one kick, then a kick or so to restart and away it went. But man it runs HOT. My friend was worried about blowby at first, he questioned ring installation and the heavy cross hatch in the cylinder which weisco wanted 220, but after a min of idle, the burp tube started to pulse and draw versus blow gas's assumingly while the rings began to seat, His concern was the moly top ring and the grit they want for the finish hone was too rough. This weekend I'm going to restart it and run it a half hour and dump out the oil, Im using Mobil-1 4T which again he questioned a full synthetic as the rings are seating, and generally I would use a non-synthetic as well, but the damn thing produces so much heat. Top end was amazingly pretty quiet and I have a good amount of oil spraying about when I removed an inspection cap, no smoke out the pipe and the plug came out with no signs of lean running. I think before going forward an oil cooler is the next step.

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I'm confused on the accuracy of the service manual spec, The book states the ohm reading on the Pulse gen should be for 1983 540 +-27 Ohms.

Mine is reading a consistant 490Kohm off my fluke, bang it, slap it thing is a consistant 490Kohm bring a socket near it, it jumps up over 530Kohm

Um.. did china forget a few thousand here? or is that reading truely 540 OHMS? 👍

My stator is in spec according to the book, Lighting coil .03 to ground, and exciter is 73 Ohms to ground.

CDI checks out per manual, wiring is new and coil is in spec. Had a no spark condition when I was kickin, (I also ran twin grounds for assurance) Also someone stated air gap to pickup should be set - but manual makes no reference to spec the gap.

Thanks a bunch riders!

- Jay

So you have no spark, and your pulse gens continuity reading is 10 times what it should be?

Sounds like you may have found the problem?

surely im missing something here lol

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So you have no spark, and your pulse gens continuity reading is 10 times what it should be?

Sounds like you may have found the problem?

surely im missing something here lol

LOL No I had to question the manuals accuracy, After all it is just a magnet with wire wrapped around it, If it were open I would assume 0 readings.. It indeed was bad the numbers were just odd, My assumption was a misprint of the manual since there are a few I caught, Japan to english translation??

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