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New springs-something not right?

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Installed new front springs last weekend in my 220. I now have about an inch or so of travel at the top end that feels "springy" and I can hear the springs sliding against the side of the fork. When I push the front down it feels "un-dampered for the first inch or so, then I can feel the dampening the rest of the travel.

The first fork I did netted this result, so naturally I thought I put it together wrong. I pulled the other fork and compared assembly, everything was the same. After the install both forks felt the same, but different than with the original springs. Would improper oil level cause this? I have replaced fork oil in this bike and my sons 200, and never had a problem, this has got me baffled.

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You can eliminate the "springs sliding against the inside of the fork" noise by turning the tubes onto the caps, not the caps onto the tubes. The springs won't bind and twist that way. You need to preload the new springs about 1/2 inch or so (or less). The new springs will probably not be the same length as the old ones, so you probably need to make new spacers.

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What amount of preload is on the current fork springs?

Many people have noted a slight scraping noise of hearing the spring hit the inside of the tube. No biggie on that part.

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The springs came with spacer material, and I was prepared to cut the new spacers, but the new spring length was identical, I used the original spacers. The scraping noise apears to be lessoning after each ride. I guess the "twist" is working it's way out?

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Mine did that for a while after I changed springs. I cut different spacers with the material Race Tech supplied with them (8-9mm preload if I remember correctly), and figured that was what was doing it.

Anyway, it quit after a couple of rides and hasn't made a sound since.👍

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That "scraping sound" is nothing more than the springs rubbing against the inside of the tubes, like has already been stated. That's also the reason why fork oil has to be changed frequently. Even when you aren't hearing noise, the springs still rub, creating microscopic metallic contamination in the oil.

Your damping issue is likely due to air still being trapped in the valving. Since it's a non-cartridge fork that will likely work it's way out.

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And there's no reason to have the scraping if you install the caps properly.

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I suggest you go with a modern amount of preload, not the early '90's theory in the stock forks.

Cokey, they are cartridge forks. Hopefully, he bled the cartridge properly and filled the tubes properly. Hopefully.

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I suggest you go with a modern amount of preload, not the early '90's theory in the stock forks.

Cokey, they are cartridge forks. Hopefully, he bled the cartridge properly and filled the tubes properly. Hopefully.

Sorry, I mis-spoke, I meant they are not sealed cartridges. They are open-bath cartridges, so oil transfers freely in and out of the cartridges. Air trapped in the valving should work it's way out.

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I did bleed the air out, and as I said it felt better after the first ride. I will disassemble and redo the preload, I need all the advantage I can get, the guys I ride with are both younger and faster than me. Had a great ride this weekend. Was actually tailing my buddy for a lap and a half in the woods, couldn't believe I was staying with him...thats when I clipped a low hanging log. Knocked me silly and a small stick on the log punched through between my goggles and helmet making me bleed profusely into my goggles, then helmet liner, then all over my gear and bike. Felt like someone jumped out of the woods and hit me with a baseball bat. Still hurts when I chew!

I think I'll blame the whole incident on my pre-load.

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