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RI Valve zeroed - Replace exhaust valves?


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On recent weeklong trip, right intake on my son's 06X zeroed. Its the classic case where left intake is fine. Exhaust valves haven't moved and measure .010. Local shop said I should consider replacing the exhaust too. What do you guys think?

I am thinking of going with RHC valves, but don't know price and not on website. I presume they'll sell me proper springs to mate up with whichever R cam I get.

Opinions welcome on his stainless steel valves and other suggestions welcome.

Thanks.

Dave

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Dave I went with the RHC 1/2 kit (intakes only) and yes it came with springs ad hardware.

Currently have @ 2,800 miles on this set up, not sure the hours but would guess it at 150.

I would suggest you replace the exhaust springs with OEM and the RHC 1/2 kit. Also replace the piston and rings with late model R OEM parts.

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For the first valve job, the stock exhaust valves are probably fine, so leave them. I would replace the springs though. I have the RHC intakes on my 05, and they are still holding fine. Two adjustments in 4 years and still going. unless Ron has changed things, his valves are not stainless steel, but coated steel.

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I just found your 2009 install write up ULEWZ. I'm only doing the top end, but it was awesome!! Many thanks for taking the time to do that! I've got a few basic newb type questions though.

I have the head off and piston @ TDC.

1 - Can I somehow gently clean the carbon off the top of my piston? I'm afraid to use a cleaner with it installed cuz it'll probably get into the rings. Can I just wipe it gently and vacuum up whatever I loosen or should we leave it alone?

2 - Do I need to get a new gasket every time I remove the head? I'm thinking yes and it sounds like we need a new exhaust one too.

3 - What kind of oil do you guys recommend (e.g. step 8 of piston work and the service manual says to use on various bolts) and it says use grease on the camshaft holder set rings.

4 - The manual says use moly oil on outisde of valve lifters, the cam lobes and rocker arm bore (if installing). Do you guys do that?

5 - Lastly, I don't know if I want to do this because I had the cam sprocket perfectly aligned @ TDC, but presuming we keep tension on the cam chain, can we turn the motor over via crankcase hole in order to look inside cylinder to examine bore?

Thanks!

Dave

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I just found your 2009 install write up ULEWZ. I'm only doing the top end, but it was awesome!! Many thanks for taking the time to do that! I've got a few basic newb type questions though.

I have the head off and piston @ TDC.

1 - Can I somehow gently clean the carbon off the top of my piston? I'm afraid to use a cleaner with it installed cuz it'll probably get into the rings. Can I just wipe it gently and vacuum up whatever I loosen or should we leave it alone?

2 - Do I need to get a new gasket every time I remove the head? I'm thinking yes and it sounds like we need a new exhaust one too.

3 - What kind of oil do you guys recommend (e.g. step 8 of piston work and the service manual says to use on various bolts) and it says use grease on the camshaft holder set rings.

4 - The manual says use moly oil on outisde of valve lifters, the cam lobes and rocker arm bore (if installing). Do you guys do that?

5 - Lastly, I don't know if I want to do this because I had the cam sprocket perfectly aligned @ TDC, but presuming we keep tension on the cam chain, can we turn the motor over via crankcase hole in order to look inside cylinder to examine bore?

Thanks!

Dave

First off, while you are there, do the rings. It doesn't take that much more time, and the rings go before the valves usually. I also replace the piston, but it is not absolutely necessary. On the other hand, if the piston starts to rock side to side, not good. Always buy new gaskets, nuff said on that. It is not necessary to maintain TDC as it is easy to find, but makes things easier if you leave it alone. Basically, you just rotate the piston until the mark on the crank lines up with the mark on the case. Your head/cam position will determine if it is on the compression stroke. Please don't cheap out on this, as it will make your bike last much longer.

Make sure you wind up/remove tension on the cam chain tensioner or things will turn out bad.

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Hmm...not sure I'm ready to go further with the motor right now...so might just hafta live with the rings for a while. IF I successfully get this work done (ie reassembled and runs) then next time I'll feel better about going further. Appreciate the recommendations though.

I've got the cam chain tensioner turned tight clockwise and held in postion via small screwdriver and vice grip (per agent smith's write up on his site). Your write up said, upon reinstall, release it quickly to get it to tension the cam chain. I've kept constant tension on the cam chain so it hasn't came off the lower gear. All sound ok? I am probably a week from reinstall so CCT will be held as is until then...or can I release it and simply retighten it before reassembly?

Do you use a tappet hole protector when compressing the valve springs? The manual says ya can make one from a 35 mm film container. Used to have lots of those...maybe can find one somewhere for if I replace the valve springs on my bike. Current work is being done on my sons and the shop will put the valves and springs in for us after they cut the seats.

New gaskets it is.

RE: oil....owners manual clarified that they mean regular motor oil unless they say moly oil...so I guess I'll play it safe and get some for where they say. I don't want to scrimp and want to do it right.

Thanks again!

Dave

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Good job so far.

I too would suggest putting in rings in the bike. It's really easy and you don't even have to take the piston off the bike to do it. From where you are at right now all you have to do is remove two bolts and slip the cylinder off the bike. Remove the rings and put new ones on. If you want a hand let me know.

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TUF performance products and RHC are in the progress of building a new company its been confusing for some of the customers .Many of the products are available Through TUF Performance products already they can be reached @ 815-756-9400.The RHC dirt track componets are all avaiable through Mack'S Cycle @630-282-4679.I have also been recomending the cylinder head reconditioning to Brady Becker 810=441-3172. Im still going to be here @ Thumper Talk to answer any questions I can.

👍

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