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Rekluse Pro - YZ250 Installation With Pictures

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Installation was a breeze. I should have done this a long time ago.

Hats off to locomike for his post. Pictures always seem to help a lot.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=887753&highlight=rekluse+installation

Here's one for the 2004 YZ250 I did this past weekend -it's as close as possible to locomike's.

Hopefully, this will help those still deciding or wanting to install one.

And, as always, I take no responsibility for your installation. Always refer to the Rekluse installation manual,

http://rekluse.com/191-800_z-Start_Pro_cable-060707.pdf

Tools I used:

8mm socket

10mm socket

30mm socket

1/2" socket wrench (and hollow metal pipe as extender, for leverage)

Nose pliers (to remove the cotter pin on the brake lever)

T20 Torx screwdriver

Flat screwdriver

Hammer

Torque wrench (54 ft/lb for center nut)

1. First step is to turn off the fuel, lay the bike over on its left side, and remove the rear brake lever.

Otherwise, it is near impossible to remove the cover. If you do not have an impact wrench, put the bike in 5th gear now

IMG00224-20100401-2109.jpg

2. Remove the clutch cover

IMG00226-20100401-2117.jpg

3. There are several size screws so leave them in place after removal

IMG00229-20100401-2119.jpg

4. Remove the bolts and clutch springs. Not required with the Rekluse, but save them so you can go back to stock if needed.

IMG00230-20100401-2126.jpg

5. Remove the stock pressure plate

(NOTE: the clutch throwout assembly is in the center. keep it as it will be used again.

IMG00232-20100401-2128.jpg

6. Remove the clutch pack.

There should be 8 drive plates and 8 friction disks.

Put the friction disks aside as they will be used again.

IMG00233-20100401-2132.jpg

7. Bend down the locking tabs around the center nut

(I carefully used a flat screwdriver and hammer), and remove

the 30mm center nut. I didn't have an impact gun (see next step for manual mode tip).

IMG00234-20100401-2132.jpg

8. Manual mode to remove the 30mm center nut (re-install the rear brake lever for this method).

Sit in front of bike - bike in 5th gear, left foot on rear tire, right foot on front tire, left hand on long screwdriver to hold

down the brake lever, and right hand on wrench (with a metal pipe as extender for leverage).

IMG00237-20100401-2147.jpg

IMG00236-20100401-2145.jpg

9. Remove the clutch boss

IMG00238-20100401-2147.jpg

10. Note the OEM thrust washer behind the clutch boss. You will need it.

Sometimes it gets stuck to the clutch boss and not realize that it is there.

IMG00239-20100401-2148.jpg

IMG00242-20100401-2157.jpg

11. Take a little break. This time, Hawaii Nui

IMG00240-20100401-2149.jpg

12. Install the new Rekluse clutch boss

(make sure OEM thrust washer is installed behind it)

IMG00241-20100401-2151.jpg

13. Install the new Rekluse tab lock washer

IMG00244-20100401-2159.jpg

14. Install the OEM center nut and torque down to spec

(in my case 54ft/lb using the manual method in step 8)

IMG00245-20100401-2210.jpg

15. Fold the tabs on the new tab lock washer with a pair of pliers

(I carefully used a flat screwdriver and hammer)

IMG00246-20100401-2214.jpg

16. Install the new Rekluse steel plates and OEM friction disks

(start with the Rekluse steel plate and alternate with the OEM friction disk)

IMG00249-20100401-2219.jpg

Part two is next

Edited by sjrdr
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Part two

17. Alternate with the friction disk; here I used 8 Rekluse steel plates and all 8 OEM friction disks

IMG00250-20100401-2223.jpg

18. Place lower assembly into the Rekluse center clutch hub

(IMPORTANT: spin it until it properly seats, I failed to do so the first time around and luckily double-checked it)

IMG00253-20100401-2239.jpg

19. Install the retaining ring into the Rekluse Center Clutch

(NOTE: sharp edges, wear gloves! it must be properly installed into the groove)

IMG00252-20100401-2239.jpg

20. Install the stock clutch throwout assembly

IMG00255-20100401-2244.jpg

21. Install the Rekluse throw-out spacer on top of the throwout assembly

IMG00257-20100401-2250.jpg

22. Install the Rekluse clutch lever return spring carrier

IMG00258-20100401-2251.jpg

23. Here's how it looks so far

IMG00259-20100401-2251.jpg

24. Now check the tuning guide to see what springs to use; I used the Medium Engagement RPM / Soft Engagement Rate

25. Install the C150 wave spring on top of the spring carrier (the copper color spring here)

IMG00261-20100401-2257.jpg

26. Install the C200 wave spring on top of the rotating hub (the silverish color spring here)

IMG00262-20100401-2258.jpg

27. Place a small amount of oil on the Rekluse pressure plate

(Rekluse recommends Rotella, I've used it for years on all my bikes)

IMG00265-20100401-2302.jpg

28. Away from the bike, install the Rekluse steel balls.

In my case only 24 balls were required. There is an empty slot between groups of 8.

IMG00270-20100401-2305.jpg

29. Install the Rekluse pressure plate

IMG00271-20100401-2307.jpg

30. Get the handy Torx screw bit ready (supplied by Rekluse)

31. Hold down the Rekluse pressure plate and install the Rekluse top plate;

lightly tighten two torx screws which are 180 degrees/across from each other

IMG00272-20100401-2311.jpg

32. Check the install gap between the top Rekluse steel plate and the first stock

friction disk (with the supplied wire gauge); refer to Rekluse manual page 11, on spec and detailed diagram of this

33. Install the remaining Torx screws (NOTE: make sure you use the supplied

loctite)

IMG00275-20100401-2330.jpg

34. Install the clutch cover

35. Install the brake pedal using the supplied spacer (only required for the YZ)

IMG00278-20100401-2341.jpg

36. Remove the muffler plug, put the bike in neutral, start the bike, and most importantly,

adjust the free play on the clutch lever.

Here's a trick before starting the bike. Adjust the clutch lever so that there is free play

until about 1 inch from the grip. This is a good starting point before starting the bike to

further adjust it per Rekluse requirement.

And oh yeah, don't do it at 7:30 in the morning unless you have friendly neighbors.

It's not cool when, all of a sudden, you hear two kids start to cry next door.

IMG00223-20100328-1547.jpg

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definitely worth it. rode it saturday and faced this hill that always challenged me to negotiate the clutch. i hit that over and over with no issues. it felt so nice. in fact, will order one for the crf250 pretty soon:thumbsup:

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What does it actually do compared to using the standard clutch?

the rekluse will feather the clutch for you when you are going slow. all you have to do is use the throttle. This is particularly helpful going up really nasty hills.

However, intentionally using the rekluse to feather the clutch will generate a lot of heat in your engine and your clutch will start to fade. You run the risk of running hot or burning up your clutch plates. The rekluse is not a reason not to ride correctly.

My recommendation is that you ride like you do not have the rekluse. Keep your rpms up and "stay on the pipe". If your rpms drop, then the bike won't shut off like it normally dows. Just downshift or feather the clutch and keep the bike moving. You'll find that on your next bike, you just may not need the rekluse as much.

The rekluse will help you a lot if you ride it this way.

Oh... there is no engine braking, so you will soon learn how to properly work that rear brake if you haven't already. Pucker up on those downhills!

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Correction; there is engine braking with the Rekluse, you just have to blip the throttle to get the engine speed up to engage the clutch. If you hit the rear brake while going downhill it will most likely dis-engage it and you will have to blip the throttle once again. I have been toying with installing the left hand rear brake system, this would also be handy for steep lefthand switchbacks.

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Nobody mentions the exceptionally long life that your clutch plates have with the Rekluse or rear tire longevity or smaller foot print that your back tire leaves on the trail from lack of rear wheel spin.

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the rekluse will feather the clutch for you when you are going slow. all you have to do is use the throttle. This is particularly helpful going up really nasty hills.

thats whats nice about the pro version. you still get to feather the clutch to get it on the pipe. i usually do this when feeling a bit lazy, or better yet, put a grin on my face when wanting to hear the sweet sound of the 2T :thumbsup:

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some one said that they shorten your clutch life and another one said that it extends the life of the clutch. so which is it??

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some one said that they shorten your clutch life and another one said that it extends the life of the clutch. so which is it??

not sure yet as this is my first rekluse.

http://rekluse.com/zstartpro.shtml

here is answer from rekluse website:

Will the z-Start Pro wear my clutch plates faster?

That depends on how you use or abuse the z-Start Pro Clutch. With the z-Start Pro, you will find that you are able to ride smoothly in one or even two gears higher than you normally ride. However, riding uphill, in 4th gear at 10mph for any extended period of time will cause significant clutch slipping, accelerate clutch plate wear and possibly damage your engine. When riding with any automatic clutch, it is important to select the right gear for the situation. In general, it is safe to ride one gear higher than the riding conditions dictate for short periods of time. That being said, when used properly the z-Start Pro should allow for clutch plate life equal to or better than a stock clutch.

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1) There most certainly is engine braking - until the engine reaches the RPM where it will disengage. It depends on how you have it setup and how you ride. If you stop at the top of a steep hill and let the engine idle, then typically the clutch disengages and then you roll down, no engine braking. Blip the throttle just a bit to engage the clutch and it will provide the engine braking.

Above whatever RPM you have set it at to engage, the Rekluse acts like a standard clutch, except for the fact that it will slip enough to keep the engine from stalling.

2) Clutch wear. If you don't abuse it by riding in a gear that is too high for the speed/load, then you won't wear out the clutch because it won't slip. If you make a mistake (like the other day I forgot to shift down before coming to a stop and started out in fourth gear), you can usually tell and shift down or not do that again, but you won't kill the bike. I have not had my clutch heat up with the Rekluse. I have had clutches heat up and fade (lose lever travel) when using the clutch a lot to get over obstacles - so in a sense, if you use the Rekluse properly the clutch should wear less, not more.

I love the Rekluse, I can let the bike lug down as far as I want (assuming the appropriate gear) and not have the rear tire spinning more than necessary while climbing. Between the Rekluse, the power of the engine and the way the bike finds traction, this makes my bike really nice to ride on technical trails - which is the only kind of riding I like.

No bump starting is a downside.

Also, sometimes there are situations where I grab throttle while stopped and I didn't mean to. Those are minor things and overall the upsides far outweigh the downsides.

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alright thanx. im also wondering how much is this kit?

i got mine off thumpertalk store for 30 bucks less than rekluse sells direct. plus i got 5% off for doing their survey (extra 30 bucks!). 60 bucks off total aint too shabby :thumbsup:

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I love my Rekluse as well...once it's dialed in it's just great! I also Love my Left hand rear brake setup...once you ride on it for a while it becomes a huge part of your riding style...I wouldn't want to live without either one!

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I have one on my 07 yz250,I set mine at high idle spring with hard engage,all the balls in.I run tight single track and technical southeast trails,the high idle is only 200 rpm over medium so there is no engine braking and with the hard engage 2yrs 10enduro's 10 h.s. and alot of trail riding same clutch.

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Nobody mentions the exceptionally long life that your clutch plates have with the Rekluse or rear tire longevity or smaller foot print that your back tire leaves on the trail from lack of rear wheel spin.

I wanted to ask about plate life. Your saying its better than stock?

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