2000' Questions anyone got one?

My neighboor is selling his Deezer. Its a 2000, the bike has original tires and just the center treads are worn half, the sides are pretty much brand new. The pipe, frame, skid plates, plastics are all like 95%... I am thinking if I spent a few minutes with a rag and some armor all, the tires would be the only real giveaway that the bike wasn't new!

The bike sat for like 4 years and evidently the owners kid or something took it for a long ride!(few hours) and kaboom, blew the lower end of the motor up I guess... so, my neighboor bought it with the motor torn apart... then took it to a reputatble bike mechanic who then rebuilt the motor, completely, low end, top end, valves and all, supposedly in the $1600 range! He has probably put 30 hours on it, all trail riding....

Tonight I rode it for 30 minutes... the only other mods I see are barkbusters and hand guards and it has a new chain. It was fun...I thought maybe a little heavy, but I was also being real careful since I was wearing tenny shoes and a bicycle helmet!:thumbsup:

He says with the money he put into the motor, he HAS to get $1800 out of the bike..

Is there any reason its not worth that IF the motor is indeed in new condition? The thing seems to be a beast to kick over, I have to be honest, I wish it was E start!

Is E start an option for this bike? How easy is it to put a street legak kit on? What is the weight and horsepower of this bike??

Can this bike be lowered very easily? Neighboor claims it will lower an inch or two pretty easily??I am only 5'7" and am tippy toes on this bike right now...

SOrry for the long post.. I am just struggling with getting something like this or getting something real nimble, like a KTM 200 or KDX 200/220....???

Whatchya think??

No E start is not an option, if that is what you want hold out for a DRZ E.

IF the motor is rebuilt complete by a quality shop, and the bike is in overall good shape... PLUS you like it.. yes, it's an $1800 bike.

Anytime a motor has been gone though, for me, if I did not do the work or know who did, I consider it a large running pile of spare parts.... Priced accordingly.

I'll take a worn out unmolested motor any day over a "rebuilt" one from an unknown source.

Evidently the guy is some sort of master motor builder, his name is Pete Loomis and he builds motors for hill climb bikes here in Billings, Montana (which has the oldest hill climb in the nation)...????

Is there any way to figure out the "letter" of this bike? I know its not an "e" but is it a K? or what?

If it is kick start only... It is a DRZ 400.. No letter.

As for the master Builder..the title alone means nothing... I grew up with racers, riders and team mechanics that can build a TZ250, or I4 motor to perfection.. and they know nothing about a DRZ motor. I started my Gear Head life in the automotive and Speed boat world.. Bikes were something i had to relearn on later.. and then learn more with each new model I choose to buy or maintain for others.

Again, If the bike is really clean and runs well,,, In My part of the country it is a $1500-1800 bike. Less if the potential buyer wants an E start, more if the buyer wants the Kicker only version.

Typically, how hard should these be to start? The neighboor started this one right up tonight, but then after I road it around, slowly, for 20-30 mins and brought it back, it sat for 20 minutes while we talked, then he went to start it to take it for a spin and couldnt get it started???

NOT what I want happening to me...especially not 15 miles back in the woods...


You can find an e start for this kind of money. Doesn't sound like it's in perfect condition. Look around at a few DRZ's. After you've seen a few, you will begin to know what to look for. I've seen a few for $1000 out here.

Doesn't sound in perfect condition? Is this because of it not starting easily? If a bike is in "good working order" is it expected to just fire right up...easy...all the time?

Is it likely a carb issue???

Thanks all...

Can anyone tell me typical weight and HP of a double ought?? Is it still in that 260 range and maybe 34 Hp??

When I look through the "what did you do to your deezer today" thread... I see a boat load of cool stuff...is there anything I CANT do to this bike besides electric start??


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .
    • By tplayer100
      Currently have a 2000 drz400s work stock suspension. From my understanding this is the worst suspension the drz ever came with without even rebound damping adjustment. Therefore I'm looking for a upgrade. I'm seeing three approaches to take. First being a newer year s model suspension with dampening adjustment. A SM model USD forks and triple tree or some USD forks and triple tree from a rmz. So if you were going to upgrade what direction would you go. I currently ride off-road mostly but I do have some 17s for on road with as well so have to keep that in mind. Thanks