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Suspension help....

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Hey guys.... I posted this in the suspension section but am yet to recieve a reply so I'm going to paste it in here too and ope someone can help.......

Hey guys.... Im currently riding a 2009 Husqvarna TE310 and have owned the bike since approx 9 months and i have noticed the Rear Suspension has started to soften up and sag a little... I was just wondering if anyone else with same or similar bike could help me out with some adjustment settings.

Im a pretty tall person, around 6foot ish and weigh approx 73-75kgs, i mainly ride trails that consist of anything from long and tight sections to rocky hill climbs and decents and some rough and rutted fast flowing fire trails. I know it may not be easy to set the suspension up for all these situations.

I was extreemly impresed with the settings when they came from my dealer(i am unsure if they were set to a pre set setting or if they had already adjusted it to my weight from constant complaints about the ruggerdness of my previous 2008 Yamaha WR250F)....

I have also been having some dramas with my forks and seals (but who hasnt in a husky?) Front left fork seal blew about 3 months after purchase and the right was not far behind, i didnt bother too much about this for quite some time but noticed the handeling was getting pretty bad so had the problem sorted..... or not..... i was supplied with ALL BALLS fork seal kit and had them fixed up but within no more then 2 hours of riding they were leaking oil.

I complained to the shop where they were purshaced(husky dealer) and i was informed that only genuine husqvarna fork seals should be used as the ALL BALLS kit are not up to scracth....(would have help if this bloke served me and not some like minded apprentice... no hard feelings tho)...

I have also heard a couple of little stories that have fixed some handeling issues such as fork seal problems, these are.... Use forkseals from a 2008 Husqvarna setup (was there a 310 in 2008? or is there a similar shock used on another 2008 Husqvarna model?) and also purchase a harder spring for the left hand fork as alot more force is applied when applying the brakes hard, will this effect normal handeling behaviour at all? the way i see it, the harder spring only really helps the fact whilst breaking......

Any information would be greatly appricated!

Pete

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Hey guys.... Im currently riding a 2009 Husqvarna TE310 and have owned the bike since approx 9 months and i have noticed the Rear Suspension has started to soften up and sag a little... I was just wondering if anyone else with same or similar bike could help me out with some adjustment settings.

What this tells me is that your suspension is now "broken in"

Im a pretty tall person, around 6foot ish and weigh approx 73-75kgs, i mainly ride trails that consist of anything from long and tight sections to rocky hill climbs and decents and some rough and rutted fast flowing fire trails. I know it may not be easy to set the suspension up for all these situations.

I would try to read about suspension basics and learn what clickers do what- it takes awhile to even be able to interpret what the bike is doing right and wrong yet being able to describe it. IN general I like the standard settings- minus a few clicks of compression and add a few clicks of rebound. But I made slow changes after determining what I thought might improve the hadling- then trial and error

I was extreemly impresed with the settings when they came from my dealer(i am unsure if they were set to a pre set setting or if they had already adjusted it to my weight from constant complaints about the ruggerdness of my previous 2008 Yamaha WR250F)....

I bet the rebound and clickers were "standard" and the shock preload was random but alot. YOU need to check static and race sag- and determin if you need more or less preload and if the spring is the right one for you and your weight: static should be about 25-35mm, race should be 100mm

I have also been having some dramas with my forks and seals (but who hasnt in a husky?) Front left fork seal blew about 3 months after purchase and the right was not far behind, i didnt bother too much about this for quite some time but noticed the handeling was getting pretty bad so had the problem sorted..... or not..... i was supplied with ALL BALLS fork seal kit and had them fixed up but within no more then 2 hours of riding they were leaking oil.

I haven't had drama with my forks and seals- I assume someone did not instal them right

I complained to the shop where they were purshaced(husky dealer) and i was informed that only genuine husqvarna fork seals should be used as the ALL BALLS kit are not up to scracth....(would have help if this bloke served me and not some like minded apprentice... no hard feelings tho)...

I have also heard a couple of little stories that have fixed some handeling issues such as fork seal problems, these are.... Use forkseals from a 2008 Husqvarna setup (was there a 310 in 2008? or is there a similar shock used on another 2008 Husqvarna model?) and also purchase a harder spring for the left hand fork as alot more force is applied when applying the brakes hard, will this effect normal handeling behaviour at all? the way i see it, the harder spring only really helps the fact whilst breaking......

I have never heard of the 2008 versus 2009 seals issue- with any being necessarily preferred- I don't know... However the mix matched springs to ofset the fact that the caliper is on one side? makes absolutely no sence-

Any information would be greatly appricated!

Pete

I would go back to basic settings and check your sag- get the seals sorted out and make appropriate adjustments tuned to your tastes. I know this does not answer everything-

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I just wonder if you have done any service to your damper?

9 months without an oilchange is in my opinion far to long if you want the damper to perform its best, it sounds like you may suffer from degraded oil!?

So follow the advice, get back to standard settings, get someone to service your damper (oil and gas and fix if anything is worn out). Then take it from there.

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I've got the 08 TXC250 and my fork seals did go out and I just replaced one because only one was leaking and now the other is leaking after about another month of riding :thumbsup:

I have a set from a company called Pyramid and I'll be installing it maybe next week ... I'll let you know of the results ... They cost about half the amount of the OEM seals ...

You might want to check about bleeding the inner chambers of the forks if you have the Marzocchi forks...

http://www.dirtbikemagazine.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=news&mod=News&mid=9A02E3B96F2A415ABC72CB5F516B4C10&tier=3&nid=B9167CBBFA68494389E0C98078205F56

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I've got the 08 TXC250 and my fork seals did go out and I just replaced one because only one was leaking and now the other is leaking after about another month of riding :thumbsup:

I have a set from a company called Pyramid and I'll be installing it maybe next week ... I'll let you know of the results ... They cost about half the amount of the OEM seals ...

You might want to check about bleeding the inner chambers of the forks if you have the Marzocchi forks...

http://www.dirtbikemagazine.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=news&mod=News&mid=9A02E3B96F2A415ABC72CB5F516B4C10&tier=3&nid=B9167CBBFA68494389E0C98078205F56

He's got a 09TE310- so he has Open chamber forks not the dual cartridge forks in the TC and TXC- so those instructions don't apply- another guy tried to follow those instructions with his open chamber forks and got real confused- open chambers are much easier to maintain (less steps anyway) .

motosportz sells seals too 25$ for a set of seals, $25 for a set of wipers

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Hey guys.... Im currently riding a 2009 Husqvarna TE310 and have owned the bike since approx 9 months and i have noticed the Rear Suspension has started to soften up and sag a little... I was just wondering if anyone else with same or similar bike could help me out with some adjustment settings.

What this tells me is that your suspension is now "broken in"Yes, i understand it would now be broken in, i was happy with the unbroken in setting lol. it feels as tho the rer end sits closer to the ground, i am a reasonably tall person and like my bike to be reasonably tall too. can the height be adjusted without comprimising suspension performance too much?

Im a pretty tall person, around 6foot ish and weigh approx 73-75kgs, i mainly ride trails that consist of anything from long and tight sections to rocky hill climbs and decents and some rough and rutted fast flowing fire trails. I know it may not be easy to set the suspension up for all these situations.

I would try to read about suspension basics and learn what clickers do what- it takes awhile to even be able to interpret what the bike is doing right and wrong yet being able to describe it. IN general I like the standard settings- minus a few clicks of compression and add a few clicks of rebound. But I made slow changes after determining what I thought might improve the hadling- then trial and error

I was extreemly impresed with the settings when they came from my dealer(i am unsure if they were set to a pre set setting or if they had already adjusted it to my weight from constant complaints about the ruggerdness of my previous 2008 Yamaha WR250F)....

I bet the rebound and clickers were "standard" and the shock preload was random but alot. YOU need to check static and race sag- and determin if you need more or less preload and if the spring is the right one for you and your weight: static should be about 25-35mm, race should be 100mmAs i mentioned in the reply to the quote below, i am not very bike-literate:banghead:.... im going to have a guess and say that static sag is the unladen bike and race sag is bike with the rider on it?...... please correct me if im wrong. and how is this sag measured? and what is considered a normal or good sag?

I have also been having some dramas with my forks and seals (but who hasnt in a husky?) Front left fork seal blew about 3 months after purchase and the right was not far behind, i didnt bother too much about this for quite some time but noticed the handeling was getting pretty bad so had the problem sorted..... or not..... i was supplied with ALL BALLS fork seal kit and had them fixed up but within no more then 2 hours of riding they were leaking oil.

I haven't had drama with my forks and seals- I assume someone did not instal them rightyes, i understamd improper installation may have been the cause to brand new seals leaking although i have talked to a few people and they have had similar problems with aftermarket seals, i have been advised to stick to OEM seals..... Is there any detailed threads that explain/show step process of fork seal change? im not 100% keen on paying the $200+ labour for the local shop to do it and not too keen on letting the same bloke who did them before do it again

I complained to the shop where they were purshaced(husky dealer) and i was informed that only genuine husqvarna fork seals should be used as the ALL BALLS kit are not up to scracth....(would have help if this bloke served me and not some like minded apprentice... no hard feelings tho)...

I have also heard a couple of little stories that have fixed some handeling issues such as fork seal problems, these are.... Use forkseals from a 2008 Husqvarna setup (was there a 310 in 2008? or is there a similar shock used on another 2008 Husqvarna model?) and also purchase a harder spring for the left hand fork as alot more force is applied when applying the brakes hard, will this effect normal handeling behaviour at all? the way i see it, the harder spring only really helps the fact whilst breaking......

I have never heard of the 2008 versus 2009 seals issue- with any being necessarily preferred- I don't know... However the mix matched springs to ofset the fact that the caliper is on one side? makes absolutely no sence- i thought the 310s were 09 and up anyway so wasnt sure weather to believe it or not (although he does ride a 310).... as for the heavier spring on left hand fork, yes it doesnt really make sence, came from the same person about the 08 fork seals....

Any information would be greatly appricated!

Pete

I would go back to basic settings and check your sag- get the seals sorted out and make appropriate adjustments tuned to your tastes. I know this does not answer everything-

I just wonder if you have done any service to your damper?

9 months without an oilchange is in my opinion far to long if you want the damper to perform its best, it sounds like you may suffer from degraded oil!?

So follow the advice, get back to standard settings, get someone to service your damper (oil and gas and fix if anything is worn out). Then take it from there.

Im sorry, but i should have let you know, im not to bike-literate. i know how to do general services and stuff but unsure on some alot of aspects of the bike..... degraded oil in my damper? are we talking front or rear suspension here.... if front, my oil has been renewd when the seals were fixed(then leakd soon after)

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Im sorry, but i should have let you know, im not to bike-literate. i know how to do general services and stuff but unsure on some alot of aspects of the bike..... degraded oil in my damper? are we talking front or rear suspension here.... if front, my oil has been renewd when the seals were fixed(then leakd soon after)

Sorry if you got offended!

You asked about your rear damper didn´t you so that what I was talking about? You have not mentioned anything about maintenance, just that it has changed it´s behavior in the rear suspension. I always change oil in the rear damper in about 40-50 hours of riding, and have so done in all my previous bikes huskys and KTM. The KTMs have been more sensitive to oil gone bad than the SACHS dampers) I think that I can recognise the symptoms you describe fromwhat I feels that happen when the oil have got "bad". So if you have followed the general services recomedations for the rear suspension maybe something else have changed ore broke inside, the spring, your weight, your riding style and speed?? I have no other suggesstions:ride:

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Sorry if you got offended!

You asked about your rear damper didn´t you so that what I was talking about? You have not mentioned anything about maintenance, just that it has changed it´s behavior in the rear suspension. I always change oil in the rear damper in about 40-50 hours of riding, and have so done in all my previous bikes huskys and KTM. The KTMs have been more sensitive to oil gone bad than the SACHS dampers) I think that I can recognise the symptoms you describe fromwhat I feels that happen when the oil have got "bad". So if you have followed the general services recomedations for the rear suspension maybe something else have changed ore broke inside, the spring, your weight, your riding style and speed?? I have no other suggesstions:ride:

all good man, wasnt offnded at all, just didnt understand u were talking about oil n the rear shock..... going to have to check this out too..

DRZ..... thanks for that mate, ill check them out!!

Cheers for your help guys. very helpfull place here!!!:thumbsup:

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