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reassembly of the silencer after repacking

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I am in the middle of reassembly of my stock 2005 250 R silencer. I was wondering what you should use to reseal center piece to the end cap and inlet. Also I was just going to re rivet the end cap and inlet base back on. Does anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks.

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I use hi-temp RTV. What ends up happening if you don't seal the caps on the can, the packing ends up burning up real fast.

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I am in the middle of reassembly of my stock 2005 250 R silencer. I was wondering what you should use to reseal center piece to the end cap and inlet. Also I was just going to re rivet the end cap and inlet base back on. Does anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks.

Use high temp silicone to seal up the ends. And get appropriate sized metal sheet screws, put a dab of silicone on the threads and then the next time you need to repack no need to drill and replace rivets.

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Use high temp silicone to seal up the ends. And get appropriate sized metal sheet screws, put a dab of silicone on the threads and then the next time you need to repack no need to drill and replace rivets.

I never tried the sheet metal screws. They hold pretty good?

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Use high temp silicone to seal up the ends. And get appropriate sized metal sheet screws, put a dab of silicone on the threads and then the next time you need to repack no need to drill and replace rivets.

Charlie C asks a good question. Do they hold? I mean, it's great if they do!!

I would have thought that with the high/intense vibration from the exhaust and the hard core jarring from the bike that the screws would have worked themselves loose pretty quick. Something you would always be tightening and jacking with.

Edited by motodogg01

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well on my pipe the rivets are all loose at the base also so they may not be any worse than my rivets. I will look into them though.

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Most 2 strokes use bolts or screws, some aftermarket pipes use screws or bolts.

Use a screw like this

modified_truss_self_tapping_screw.jpg

Put a small dab of silicone around the hole so it stops it from backing out as easily. I know alot of guys will never do this just because they are worried about them falling out but I have never had a problem

I want to try these next, pending the rubber won't melt I think they would work well.

Roofing_Screw.jpg

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well on my pipe the rivets are all loose at the base also so they may not be any worse than my rivets. I will look into them though.

I have the same problem and I use a pneumatic rivit gun. That's why I was hoping this would work. I'm going to give it a try. I have to repack the duals on the 250 and the 5 gallon exhaust tank on the 450. I'll know for sure pretty soon. Big race next weekend, so that will be the test!

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Most 2 strokes use bolts or screws, some aftermarket pipes use screws or bolts.

Ya, you're right. I looked at the muffle on one of our 85's and it uses something like this on one side, and bolts and welded on nut on the other. Almost all the four-stroke exhaust system I've seen seem used rivet's. I guess what why I thought what I stated above. Do you have to use any other glue/silicons when changing to these fasteners?

I have the same problem and I use a pneumatic rivet gun. That's why I was hoping this would work. I'm going to give it a try. I have to repack the duals on the 250 and the 5 gallon exhaust tank on the 450. I'll know for sure pretty soon. Big race next weekend, so that will be the test!

Please do. I would really like to know how these hold up. Sure would make the job a little easier.

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Use the appropriate sized screw to replace the rivet put a dap of rtv silicone around the hole so the screw tightens down intop of a small blob, when it dries it will keep it in place

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