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stupid clutch question for a 2004 TC450

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I had an ASV clutch lever on my Husky. I switched to a stock part because the ASV lever didn't fit very well with the Baja designs switchgear. The clutch wouldn't disengage all the way so I adjusted the lever all the way out (turned the red plastic adjustment screw all the way in so it is long). It worked fine for a couple of hours and now when I pull the clutch lever the bike barely slows down.

I am useless when it comes to clutches so I need to know if I am on the right track.

Do I just need to change my friction plates? Is there another adjustment that I need to do? The clutch fluid is topped up and the system is bled so that is not the problem. I know this is a really simple problem but it is one that I don't know anything about. What should I do first?

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The o-ring on the slave cylinder (in the motor) for the clutch gets hard from heat cycles and starts leaking. I bet thats your issue. 7602 makes a replacement piston with new seals and up-tite makes a X ring replacement seal. When my 04 TE450 did this I slapped a hardware store o-ring in there (the right size) and had no issues. It is kinda hard to bleed and is best to back bleed.

The 7602 solution...

http://www.**********.com/prod_clutch_piston.php

Well i guess it is blocked here (odd) just do a search for 7602 racing

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I had an ASV clutch lever on my Husky. I switched to a stock part because the ASV lever didn't fit very well with the Baja designs switchgear. The clutch wouldn't disengage all the way so I adjusted the lever all the way out (turned the red plastic adjustment screw all the way in so it is long). It worked fine for a couple of hours and now when I pull the clutch lever the bike barely slows down.

I am useless when it comes to clutches so I need to know if I am on the right track.

Do I just need to change my friction plates? Is there another adjustment that I need to do? The clutch fluid is topped up and the system is bled so that is not the problem. I know this is a really simple problem but it is one that I don't know anything about. What should I do first?

what a dumb ass! quit screwing around and put a recluse in it. better yet insure the heck out of it and ride it off a cliff. If you go that way - might want to get Mo to insure you more heavily also.

call George at Uptite, I have and will pay him enough over the past few months to put him on full time retainer.

carl "the better looking brother" (it's all relative of course) Johansson

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Nope, it's not a stupid question at all. Husky hydraulic clutches can get a little mischievous in their advancing years if they're minded to do so.

Firstly, the manual can be a little misleading. It says (if I recall correctly) that the hydraulic fluid shouldn't be allowed to drop below 4mm from the top of the master cylinder reservoir. Unfortunately this leaves very little air gap and so doesn't allow for normal fluid expansion / contraction with changing engine temp, rising fluid level due to normal clutch wear and whatnot. Try a maximum level of 6mm from the top. I believe that overfilling the reservoir is a major source of aggro.

Other observations based on personal tribulations and the experience of others:

The 7602 piston upgrade is a great way to reclaim a slave cylinder that's getting tired, or to make a newer slave more robust (I have one).

The clutch pushrod can burr, or maybe even bend. Remove the slave and pull the rod. BTW, don't accidentally pull the clutch lever with the slave cylinder detached from the bike - the slave piston will hit it's retaining circlip and likely crack the cylinder.

The clutch basket on the '04 is steel and resists wear, but the clutch inner is normal aluminium and can get ridged. Minor dings can be eased out with a fine file and wet+dry paper (I did this). Check the plates for flatness and thickness and check all the springs are visually the same length. I noticed the steel plates on mine had very sharp edges on their inner teeth (because of the manufacturing process) so I deburred them with a steel wire mop on my bench grinder, deglazing the faces at the same time. Check the release bearing in the pressure plate runs smooth and has no play - on the 04 it's an ordinary open ball bearing (size code 6001) so is super cheap from a bearing supplier. When I got my TE the clutch dragged like mad and finding neutral was pretty hit-and-miss. I did these few tweaks and now it's like butter.

If all else fails the master cylinder may be in need of a repair kit (not had to do this though).

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