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any tips for changing wheel bearings?

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2006 250 XC-W. I ordered a new set of wheel bearings and am just curious if I am going to run into any problems when changing them out. Do I need a special puller? Anyone have any tips to make it go smoother? Do's and don'ts?

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1.

Check for any snap-rings.

2.

I warm the hub up with a propane torch to expand the aluminum.

3.

I use a long narrow punch I bought at Sears.

Should be a breeze!👍

Booger2

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I haven't done it yet, but I'm pretty sure you need a bearing puller kit if you don't want to damage your wheels. There's a variety of those, Pit Posse makes one that is specially designed for wheel bearings, it's less expensive but then you can't use it for blind bearings.

A blind bearing remover kit costs twice as much but is more versatile and can be used for case bearings too...

Wheel Only Kit : http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html

Blind Kit : http://pitposse.com/blbeandbure.html

Depends on your level of DIY, personally I'd go for the blind kit, but I just like to be well equipped with tools.

As for tips on how to do it, I know one thing, you have to be extra careful when pushing the new bearings into place, you have to put pressure on the outer casing or you'll scar the bearing and it will wear quickly.

See this neat video from Rocky Mountains Howtos :

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/videos.do?videoId=89

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I haven't done it yet, but I'm pretty sure you need a bearing puller kit if you don't want to damage your wheels. There's a variety of those, Pit Posse makes one that is specially designed for wheel bearings, it's less expensive but then you can't use it for blind bearings.

A blind bearing remover kit costs twice as much but is more versatile and can be used for case bearings too...

Wheel Only Kit : http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html

Blind Kit : http://pitposse.com/blbeandbure.html

Depends on your level of DIY, personally I'd go for the blind kit, but I just like to be well equipped with tools.

As for tips on how to do it, I know one thing, you have to be extra careful when pushing the new bearings into place, you have to put pressure on the outer casing or you'll scar the bearing and it will wear quickly.

See this neat video from Rocky Mountains Howtos :

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/videos.do?videoId=89

great info and video. But is there any way to do this without buying a wheel bearing puller kit?

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Yep, you do not need a bearing puller, as the bearings are easy to push out from the opposite side. Long punch or socket extension, and a hammer. No damage. Easy as piss.

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Yep, you do not need a bearing puller, as the bearings are easy to push out from the opposite side. Long punch or socket extension, and a hammer. No damage. Easy as piss.

thanks. I will give it a try

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Yep, you do not need a bearing puller, as the bearings are easy to push out from the opposite side. Long punch or socket extension, and a hammer. No damage. Easy as piss.

I agree. I used a socket extension and a hammer. I did put the new bearings and seals in the freezer before installing, to make install a little easier.

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the hardest part is if the wheel spacers are stuck. They can be REALLY stuck sometimes. I ruined one getting it out, they are expensive to replace. They come out the same way, with a long punch from the opposite side. Someone here the other day had what sounds like a good idea for them. Wrap them with wire leaving a loop and use a slide hammer to pull them.

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great info and video. But is there any way to do this without buying a wheel bearing puller kit?

YES.....I use a 12" piece 3/8" round steel rod to punch the bearing from the other side of the hub. Just be sure to remove the "C" clip first. Lay the wheel down and tap the rod all of the way around the bearing until it falls out. REMEMBER... the word of the day is TAP.....not hit

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YES.....I use a 12" piece 3/8" round steel rod to punch the bearing from the other side of the hub. Just be sure to remove the "C" clip first. Lay the wheel down and tap the rod all of the way around the bearing until it falls out. REMEMBER... the word of the day is TAP.....not hit

ok. I will just give it a little tappy..... tap tap taparoo

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I agree. I used a socket extension and a hammer. I did put the new bearings and seals in the freezer before installing, to make install a little easier.
YES.....I use a 12" piece 3/8" round steel rod to punch the bearing from the other side of the hub. Just be sure to remove the "C" clip first. Lay the wheel down and tap the rod all of the way around the bearing until it falls out. REMEMBER... the word of the day is TAP.....not hit

+1 on the above.

I did mine w/o a bearing puller...just the judicious use of a hammer and long socket extension (an old one of course...🤣)

Placing the bearing into the freezer the night before and taking them out just prior to install does make it very easy to seat the new bearing correctly with just a light tapping around the edges.

No probelm-o!👍 In fact, I was actually pleased at how easy it really is. I had never replaced wheel bearings before and it took me all of 30 minutes to do the first wheel...easy peeasy.

-Jay

Edited by Jays07WR450

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You only need to freeze the bearing for about 30 min and DON'T heat the hub past 200/220 degrees I just did mine and worked slick with no problems.

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Okay, y'all have me convinced for the McGyver way... I guess using a puller would be more fun if you had it handy, but its not worth purchasing specifically for that.

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Fronts are done. easy

But I am having some trouble here on therears. Got the spacers out, got the C-clip out, but the old bearings won't budge. Why is there only a c-clip on one side? do both bearings come out and go in on the C-clip side? Tried "tapping, but they aren't moving at all.

Edited by craig3x

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I am having some trouble here. Got the spacers out, got the C-clip out, but the old bearings won't budge. Why is there only a c-clip on one side? do both bearings come out and go in on the C-clip side? Tried "tapping, but they aren't moving at all.

If your sure you have the c-clips out...it might simply be time for a bigger persuader if you know what I mean.

Heat the hub up if you can. I didn't have a torch for mine...I just wailed on 'em with my old 3/8 socket extension and a 22oz. framing hammer!

KaaaaBLAM!

-Jay

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If your sure you have the c-clips out...

-Jay

Only talking about the rear wheel here. there is only 1 C-Clip on one side. None on the other. Why is this? do both bearings come out and go in on one the same side? And yes, I am heating the hub

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