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$25 for first correct diagnosis

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I'm having an issue with my 2005 RM250 that is making me nuts. It takes 20 minutes of kicking to start when it is cold but then runs like a champ and starts on the first kick after it warms up.

I thought that it might need a new top end so I checked the compression and it was only 55psi. So, I just completed a Top End replacement on the bike this weekend. I also replaced the Reed valve with Boyesen Carbon Reeds.

The bike did its usual, 20 minutes to start (which made me sweat that I screwed up the Top end job) but it started, didn't smoke up the countryside from being flooded, ran beautifully and was crisp and not too rich and not too lean.

I am running out of ideas on why this thing is a nightmare to start. Any ideas???

First correct idea that fixes the problem and I'll send you $25 bucks.

Thanks.

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Check the main jet and the needle might be out by a lot depending on riding area. Change the main jet lower and higher and see which seems to make it easier to kick over.

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Aggravating , I'm sure.

Do you have stock pipe ???....stock silencer ????

Read your owners manual....and study the jetting section.....my 05 is using a 45sj...instead of a 48....and the main is a 162 ( i think) instead of the 168. I left the needle jet alone...including the clip.....and I adjusted the air screw ( on the side of the carb )......Slightly leaner than stock works for me....and I think if you put in the aftermarket pipe stuff...you might go slightly more leaner than what I am running.

Sometimes , I kick with the throttle slightly cracked , if it doesn't start up in a few kicks.

good luck.

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i used to have a prob starting mine just when cold. now i pull the choke i dont give it any throttle at all. about 3 good kicks it starts up. i used to give it some throttle which used to flood it. dont know if it helps but worth a try.

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How is the spark looking? Was the bike frame powdercoated? I had a bike that after it was powdercoated the spark was weak. I tracked it down to where the coil mounts up and ground off the coating to metal and then it started right up and the spark was looking alot better.

If you have anyone close by that has the same bike see if you can try their carb to rule that?

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I don't think its a carb issue. swap out the plug for a new one. Make sure the new one has a bright blue spark. Next do a compression test and check your powervalve. It might be sticking if you didn't clean it while it was out.

Yes I know you just did a topend, but if you didn't spec out your cylinder or line the rings up properly then there could be a problem.

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Thanks for all of the responses.

Here is some additional information.

After paying $200 to the local Suzuki shop, they said you need a new plug (which they installed, no difference in starting issue, I should have taken it back)

Plug with 2 hours of run time is a hair on the rich side (little bit black but not wet)

I thought I might have a wiring problem because one time when I was having the cold start issue, a Suzuki mechanic friend said it might be a grounding issue with the STOP switch. I disconnected the Stop switch and it fired on the first kick. It had to be a fluke because that trick hasn't worked since. I replaced the entire wire bundle as well as the Stop switch and still no better.

I just did a complete Top End job and finished today at lunch time. After 20 minutes of kicking it to start, it ran perfectly and has started on the first kick 3 times today after two hours between runs.

For the Pipe question, I have a FMF Gnarly Pipe.

For the powdercoated frame question, no it is factory.

I know the original owner was a Suzuki dealer and he put a heavier flywheel in it for the woods as well as one click richer jet in the carb. Why? I don't know but the bike runs great when it starts.

Tomorrow I will research the power valve as well as what jets are in the carb. That should keep me busy.

Thanks everybody for the replies.

++++++++++++++

Still researching and had a couple thoughts, I am running a Good quality Mobil 2 Stroke Oil at 32:1 and 93 Octane gas. My pipe gets loaded up and when I laid the pipe on the ground about a silver dollar size wad of black goo came out. Is this a sign it is way too rich??? I just repacked the material in the silencer portion of the pipe. The goo came out of the front fat part of the FMF fatty.

Edited by thekubiaks

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Thanks for all of the responses.

Here is some additional information.

After paying $200 to the local Suzuki shop, they said you need a new plug (which they installed, no difference in starting issue, I should have taken it back)

Plug with 2 hours of run time is a hair on the rich side (little bit black but not wet)

I thought I might have a wiring problem because one time when I was having the cold start issue, a Suzuki mechanic friend said it might be a grounding issue with the STOP switch. I disconnected the Stop switch and it fired on the first kick. It had to be a fluke because that trick hasn't worked since. I replaced the entire wire bundle as well as the Stop switch and still no better.

I just did a complete Top End job and finished today at lunch time. After 20 minutes of kicking it to start, it ran perfectly and has started on the first kick 3 times today after two hours between runs.

For the Pipe question, I have a FMF Gnarly Pipe.

For the powdercoated frame question, no it is factory.

I know the original owner was a Suzuki dealer and he put a heavier flywheel in it for the woods as well as one click richer jet in the carb. Why? I don't know but the bike runs great when it starts.

Tomorrow I will research the power valve as well as what jets are in the carb. That should keep me busy.

Thanks everybody for the replies.

++++++++++++++

Still researching and had a couple thoughts, I am running a Good quality Mobil 2 Stroke Oil at 32:1 and 93 Octane gas. My pipe gets loaded up and when I laid the pipe on the ground about a silver dollar size wad of black goo came out. Is this a sign it is way too rich??? I just repacked the material in the silencer portion of the pipe. The goo came out of the front fat part of the FMF fatty.

where you at in KY cause i need to make sure i don't take my bike to the same place you did. I am very serious. I would be interested in knowing who charged you 200 for changing a plug and didn't fix the bike. I am in KY so I don't want to get that kind of treatment.

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I think the carb needs thoroughly cleaned and spray the powervalve with carb cleaner (gummed up and sticky). I can't believe they had the gall to charge you $200. That's a joke. Hope you get it straight. If you want something done right do it yourself, still pertains to this day. Maybe even more so.

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My cold starting drill:

Gas on, lean bike over till gas runs out of the overflow, choke on, no throttle, should start within a few kicks.

I only have to do this drill first thing in the morning.

.02

Booger2

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Start with making sure the pilot jet is clean.

Check to make sure the choke circuit is working properly.

I dont think its a powervalve issue because you say its running good after you get it to start.

So after the bike is warm is does start easily again?

Mike

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Sell it and get a new bike! Problem fixed! Where is my $25!! Seriously though, Like everybody said, check spark and clean carb and may need re-jetting. Check the FAQ at the top of the forum for some help with jetting.

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i'm going out on a limb, have you checked the screen on the petcock? sounds like your fuel bowel is taking too long to fill at first, once its full its ok, put the 25.00 towards the shop bill, if i'm right:smirk:

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I'm tearing the carb apart today , I'll definitely let everyone know if I find the cause. Thanks again for all of the help!!

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I didn't see if he was using the choke to start it or not. He didn't say what octane fuel and a high octane would cause this problem as cold is harder to start. Also, a leaner fuel is harder to start until warm. It's his fuel or his choke.

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i'm going out on a limb, have you checked the screen on the petcock? sounds like your fuel bowel is taking too long to fill at first, once its full its ok, put the 25.00 towards the shop bill, if i'm right:smirk:

I forgot about that. Could be something as easy as a clogged fuel line/filter. Either way it's gonna be the gas delivery (carb,fuel line) or the powervalve. If the powervalve is sticky it will run better once it gets heated up from the bike actually starting. Clean that thing out with spray carb cleaner. I actually put some bottle carb clean in my fuel tank ocassionally to keep the engine clean of gunk.

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