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KDX Using tranny oil

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Oh boy, the guy I bought my 220 from said he thought it was spewing tranny oil out the vent tube. I checked the tube and it definitely doesn't spew. I'd know since it vents into the air box and would cover the filter with oil if it was. So now I'm thinking crank seal. So here's my question. If it's running well but using, say, a cup of oil every 50 miles, should I just ride it, or is it going to cause problems. I've noticed a bit more smoke than it should probably have.

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its only gona get worse. I would see if in fact that your losing trans oil by measuring how much you put in and comes out( apparently a little less ) And when you give it a full throttle while rind it, it sputters and falls flat. Any spooge? It sucks because the kawasakis, you have to split the cases for the crank seal

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Like they said, it's going to get worse. At the least; smoke, fouled plugs, and spooge are in your near future if you don't fix it.

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A leaking seal doesn't just suck oil from the tranny, it also sucks air. If the seal leaks bad enough, it can lean the fuel/air mix enough to cause engine damage.

You have to split the cases to replace the seals. While you have it open, rebuild the crank, and replace all seals. That way you won't have to go back inside for a long time, if ever.

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A leaking seal doesn't just suck oil from the tranny, it also sucks air. If the seal leaks bad enough, it can lean the fuel/air mix enough to cause engine damage.

You have to split the cases to replace the seals. While you have it open, rebuild the crank, and replace all seals. That way you won't have to go back inside for a long time, if ever.

Ok, how long will that take the average guy who is fairly mechanical but never had the cases split? Is it something that i should take pics of every five minutes or more straight forward? Also, when you say "rebuild the crank, are you mainly referring to new main bearings and rod bearing or what?

Thanks for the replies guys.

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If you have tools and time, it will take a couple days, mayb less if you get crakkin on it, maybe more if you dont have all the parts etc. Some people get lucky and dont need a crank case splitter, just a rubber mallet, but only sometimes. You will need a flywheel puller, crank puller/installer and a manual. By rebuild crank, the berings in the crank, not the main bearings. But i would replace them anyway. And set up the dis assembled parts in a clean fairly big table to keep them in order and all parts together. You sould be able to do it. And what ever you do, dont use screw drivers to help split the case. I was talking to this guy next door to me and seen my bike, i told him i needed to split the cases and he said he usuwally uses flat head screw drivers, scared me when he said that 👍

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I've got some various pullers in the garage from automotive junk and was able to make something work. Between that and a rubber mallet anyway. Heat and cold are your friends for this. If you heat the whole engine it will come apart much more easily, as the aluminum case will expand faster than the steel bearings. The bearings will likely come out with the crank.

Not very hard at all once you decide to just go on and do it.

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Rmatv has a bunch of great videos on YouTube. You will need three specialty tools. Case splitter, flywheel puller, and crank installer. All three can be had at rmatv for $160. Trying to do without is not reccomended. Believe me I tried. Then you'll need to get the main bearings pressed off the crank, and hav the crank rebuilt with a new rod kit.

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