Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Chain

Recommended Posts

I have a 2006 crf 450r that needs a new chain .what i need to know is size and how many links.I wanting to raplace the old O ring with a new one.thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Truthfully, I havent really seen a big difference in an non o-ring and an o-ring chain. As long as you keep it somewhat clean and lubed, your going to be alright. The chain is going to look pretty bad for awhile before something bad happens. Although you shouldnt let your chain get bad to begin with. The o-rings do help to seal in grease within the rollers but if you blast the chain or the rings start to wear alot then your going to displace the grease with water. Obviously thats worse than not have grease in the chain. I would just get a cheap non o-ring and keep her lubed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I would just get a cheap non o-ring and keep her lubed.

You might as well throw money down the toilet. Sure, you could spend only 35-40 bucks on a turner or bikemaster, etc but you'll be replacing them every 4 hours after they've stretched beyond the adjusters limits. Especially on a 450 stroker.

If your not going o-ring, the best standard roller (what I use) is the RK520mxz4 which you can buy in standard color or "gold" plated. Very good quality and has the highest tensile strength on the market.

You get what you pay for......👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depending on how you ride, a good O or X ring chain can be great. The issue with the O and X ring chains on the CRF engine is space between the wider chain and the cases. The spacers tend to kill the spring washer that retains the counter shaft sprocket though. There is a narrow X ring that was designed specifically for the CRF space issue, but it aint cheap.

Do yourself a huge favor and get a good chain. Ive made the mistake in the past of buying inexpensive chains and they take the sprockets with them when they die a quick death regardless of how much you lube them. What Ive found with sprockets are they're all about the same unless they're steel or have steel teeth. My next bike will get one of those type sprockets. Aluminum Center and tool steel teeth. Best of both worlds there. The steel teeth on the rear sprocket saves the chain, the chain then doesnt eat the countershaft sprocket which in turn will save the rear sprocket. The whole setup last twice as long.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no doubt, but O-ring chains are not going to stop the chain from stretching fast or slower than non o-ring chains.

Tsubaki are great non o-ring chains also. I dont know, I guess its a " I do this " " You do that " type of argument.

Shawn what do you recommend for a chain/sprocket setup?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, right out of the gate, Chains dont actually stretch. They wear at the pins on the inside of the rollers, which allows them to be artificially longer from pin to pin. But if you measure the center of the pins from pin to pin, they haven't changed in length.

Ever notice your chain will bend over sideways in a half circle when they're worn out? Thats the wear on the inside that lets them get longer, and eat the sprockets too because the rollers arent rolling off the teeth the way they should, or used to when new.

As far as chains go, Ive got a Sidewinder setup that has at least 175 hours of dune riding on it on my ported and polished evil beast of a CR500. The chain and sprockets have out lasted 5 pistons (none of which ever ate sand). That Sidewinder O ring on that thing was 170 bucks, without the sprockets. It was on the bike when I bought it and the guy had the receipt and that was back in 1990. Granted I dont ride that bike much anymore, but before I got my 426 in 01, it was my main bike for 9 years...same chain and sprockets...almost exclusively dune ridden.

I just got a setup for my CRF. I got the Gold RK MXz4 chain, and a couple of those Primary drive cheap aluminum sprockets. The sprockets are the best deal anywhere. Its impossible to get a better deal on sprockets if you've gotta pay for them. The PD sprockets are as hard as any aluminum sprocket Ive ever owned, but the Primary Drive chain makes the OEM one look like an indestructible, non wear item. My Primary drive sprockets didn't show any wear until the Primary drive chain was so toast I had to take a friggin link out to get the adjustment back. Then the chain ate the sprockets too.

POS chain, with decent sprockets = waste of money.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my 2c, much depends on the riding and conditions you do. I ride 3 times a week here in the FL sand. I went through 3 chains in 12 months. Call me crazy, but the NON 0-ring easily wore twice as fast. I don't use ANY lube, just spray with wd-40 every ride (not just the day, but every time i head out). My chains look perfect, sprockets wear longer too as the sticky lube doesn't collect sand and dirt that usually builds up from chain wax and other lubes.

I put an extra spring washer on the back side of the countershaft sprocket, and a small washer on the OUTside, directly on the end of the c.s. This keeps the exterior spring washer from "cupping" into the sprocket that is now past flush with the end of the shaft.

If you ride ALOT in dirty/sandy conditions.. 0-ring would be the way to go in my opinion. As they mentioned above, putting new sprockets on an old chain will ruin sprockets. I rode ONE day on my old chain as i lost the master link to the new chain, it sloped the new rear sprocket just a bit that i was too lazy to take off before i got the new link.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for the imput .I was going to replace the chain with whats on it ,an Oring.it has lasted more than a year of raceing and trail rideing in az.all i asked was what size and how many links!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thanks for the imput .I was going to replace the chain with whats on it ,an Oring.it has lasted more than a year of raceing and trail rideing in az.all i asked was what size and how many links!

i would not count links. Roll the chain onto the bike full lenght and fold over where the ends meet up on the large rear sprocket. Counting is just aking to cut it too short.. Also be sure your axle is in the middle or where you like it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i would not count links. Roll the chain onto the bike full lenght and fold over where the ends meet up on the large rear sprocket. Counting is just aking to cut it too short.. Also be sure your axle is in the middle or where you like it.

deff haha. Bettter to have it too long than short so just so that he said.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AND, just rolling it on and fitting it up is faster than counting the links?? for what that's worth. LOL..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

do yourself a favor and fork out the bucks for the DID VT2. i really wish i would have done that at the beginning. instead i wore through 3 non o-ring chains in less than a year, and just threw money in the toilet. the VT2 fits perfectly without any spacers, and it seems to be lasting. i don't think i'll ever put a different type of chain on there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...