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feedback on enclosed trailer setup please

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Hello folks,

I'm a long time member of thumpertalk but haven't really posted much for a while.

I recently put in an order for a carry-on 6x12 V nose enclosed trailer that I will be using to take two bikes to the track along with associated gear, tools, etc.

I have some questions on setting up the trailer and I hope you guys can provide some feedback.

1. Air Conditioning.

Since I live in Southern California and it get's pretty darn hot in summer at some of the tracks, I want to have air-conditioning in the trailer. The trailer dealer suggested a 13500BTU aircon for the trailer but wanted to charge more than $1K for the installation. I was wondering if I could get by with using one of the portable aircons you see at costco, home depot, etc. They come in 13500BTU capacity as well. The only issue I see with them is the exhaust and intake ports requiring access to the outside. I do not want to make a hole in the side of the trailer, I did however order a ceiling vent in the trailer. So, anyone see any issue with running a long pipe from the aircon to the roof vent? Would that work or should I shell out the bucks for the roof mounted unit?

2. Flooring

I did some research on here and it seems there are a lot of options available, from checkerboard vinyl to rustoleum etc. I was thinking about getting some garage flooring from costco http://tinyurl.com/2fjq4gz That should help prevent gas or oil spills from soaking into the floor of the trailer and stinking it up, especially since I plan on sleeping in the trailer as well

3. Generator

In addition to the aircon, I would also like to have a small 26" or so flat panel TV, DVD player and stereo installed in the trailer. I don't believe the combined wattage for all these items should be more than 400watts. So for the generator, should I get two Honda EU2000i's with the parallel kit for a combined supply of close to 4000W or go with a Yamaha EF3000iSEB which would be closer to 2800W output? The downside to the Honda's is that the total runtime would be less than 4 hours with the aircon running (my guess) which would mean that at some point at night I may have to get up and refuel it. The yamaha runs much longer (20 hours at 1/4 load) but is a lot heavier as well.

4. Flooring for ramp

I would like to put some grippy surface material on the ramp door. I've often seen ramps with black sandpaper like coating, anyone know what that material is and where I can purchase it from?

Hope to get some feedback on the above. 👍

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Man, you are going to invest more in your trailer than you will pay for it. I kinda think it's overkill for a small trailer but to each his own. You may have to brace your roof with some more steel because the AC unit is pretty heavy and trailers aren't built to carry a load on the roof. I used anti-slip stuff from Lowes on my ramp, mix in as much as you want in whatever you paint with. I used a 1 part garage floor paint. I think the costco floor stuff is going to be slippery when wet and will not seal your floor. I like it though. You should check the amperage draw of the AC unit and match a gennie to that. Good luck

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Yeah, the bracing is what the dealer wanted to do which is why it was costing a pretty penny. I'm leaning towards the portable a.c. now unless someone convinces me otherwise.

Thanks for the info on the anti-slip stuff, good point on the costco flooring, it probably doesnt seal together well enough to prevent seepage into the wooden flooring, perhaps something similar that is one piece roll out that I can cut to size.

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I'd vent the AC through the floor, just find or create a location that won't gather road grime while you drive. I put together 4 office trailers for a construction company using Haulmark boxs, the best thing I found was to insulate the walls and lid using foam hardboard. Pull the wall paneling and stuff panels of insulation into the cells, for the lid I had to fit the insulation into the framing and put 1/8" paneling on to cover. I sprayed texture on the entire interior and painted them, but that was easy for me because I had drywallers and painters on the payroll who did it during downtime. Without the insulation a roof mount 11k BTU AC on a 16' trailer was nowhere near enough in the summer sun, insulated that thing was an icebox.

One more thing, please don't use propane heat, we had a D37 racer die this winter in a box trailer when the vent somehow closed. His lifelong best friend was nearly killed, he was saved when someone knocked on the door for a wakeup call. They pulled him out with no pulse, but he wasn't cold yet and the rescue guys were able to bring him back.

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I like the idea of venting the a/c through the floor, I hadn't thought of that.

I’m really sorry about what happened to your fellow racer. Anytime you're using a fuel for heat you should have a carbon monoxide detector and a smoke alarm, and test them everytime you use the heater. Unfortunately many people die each year from not having one or it not working properly.

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I'd duct the AC through the roof, and use PVC to do it. Then, when you hit the road, just put a PVC endcap over it to prevent anything from coming in, and remove it when you get set up.

Have the PVC extend inside a few inches, and from there, use flexible dryer tubing (you can collapse it and stow it away).

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If you get a portable AC do it through the floor. Down the road if the AC isnt needed it will be much easier to cover up.

IMO a roof top AC for a 6x12 would be a waste of money

As for the floor door, Lowes/Homedepot have just what your looking for.

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thanks for all the helpful feedback guys, this is a great forum!

So I'm brand new to trailers and in fact mine's still being built. I saw a demo trailer at the dealers and the floor was plywood, what exactly is underneath it? Is there just metal bracing or is there a metal sheet as well? If I have to make a hole in the bottom, what exactly would I have to cut through?

The idea of PVC pipe and dryer tubing does sound like the least amount of damage to the trailer.

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thanks for all the helpful feedback guys, this is a great forum!

So I'm brand new to trailers and in fact mine's still being built. I saw a demo trailer at the dealers and the floor was plywood, what exactly is underneath it? Is there just metal bracing or is there a metal sheet as well? If I have to make a hole in the bottom, what exactly would I have to cut through?

The idea of PVC pipe and dryer tubing does sound like the least amount of damage to the trailer.

There will be metal crossmembers under there, most likely angle iron with treated plywood as decking. Shouldn't be any sheet metal between them.

I holesaw should chow right through it (just be sure you're not on a crossmember or frame rail).

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Who is building our trailer? I have a Universal out of San Bernardino and it has 2" square tubing in the floor.

Edited by SMarquez
speeling

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just got some pricing from the dealer on having the factory insulate the walls and ceiling for me. Are these reasonable or can I get these done myself cheaper by removing the wood paneling and throwing some insulation in there myself?

Walls lined with white aluminum and insulated $360

Ceiling lined with white aluminum and insulated. $292

Edit: The dealer said the white aluminum is in place of the plywood sides...so I guess it would probably look nicer.

Edited by Newtomoto

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Yeah, the bracing is what the dealer wanted to do which is why it was costing a pretty penny. I'm leaning towards the portable a.c. now unless someone convinces me otherwise.

O braced my roof to accomodate a roof air conditioner. Just frame in a 14X14 square. I used 1 1/4" box tube to correspond with my roof bows, the AC unit is supported over 3 roof bows. AC weight in at 100 lbs. The household AC is a repulsive idea and those weigh so darn much, I used to have a 13,500 portable unit and it was a spine breaker. Pain to load. If you really want the AC, grab a roof unit and install it yourself. (will require a welder, good excuse to buy a MIG welder) as for that unit, will take about 3000 watter. Grab the Honda EU3000i, you can run your o0ther goodies at the same time. Better insulate the whole thing, no way will that cool you in the Cally sun without insulation.

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This is what I did.

toyota_mdt_tech's trailer

I didnt want to lose sight of the fact it was still a enclosed cargo trailer and I wanted to still be able to use it for just that. Yet, make it comfortable to use for riding, have a place to stay overnight and be comfortable.

There is lots of nice trailer builds here, but they are temporarily gone because of the switch back to vintage TT.

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toyota, very cool setup. The blue insulation, does it come that way from home depot? How did you attach it to the roof?

Also, how did you insulate the sides, i.e. what did you put behind the plywood on the trailer sides?

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hello folks,

i'm a long time member of thumpertalk but haven't really posted much for a while.

I recently put in an order for a carry-on 6x12 v nose enclosed trailer that i will be using to take two bikes to the track along with associated gear, tools, etc.

I have some questions on setting up the trailer and i hope you guys can provide some feedback.

1. Air conditioning.

Since i live in southern california and it get's pretty darn hot in summer at some of the tracks, i want to have air-conditioning in the trailer. The trailer dealer suggested a 13500btu aircon for the trailer but wanted to charge more than $1k for the installation. I was wondering if i could get by with using one of the portable aircons you see at costco, home depot, etc. They come in 13500btu capacity as well. The only issue i see with them is the exhaust and intake ports requiring access to the outside. I do not want to make a hole in the side of the trailer, i did however order a ceiling vent in the trailer. So, anyone see any issue with running a long pipe from the aircon to the roof vent? Would that work or should i shell out the bucks for the roof mounted unit?

if you want ac, do it right, don't jerry rig it. Get a roof top. It will get old really quickly dealing w/ a cumbersome protable unit and the roof top will save space.

2. Flooring

i did some research on here and it seems there are a lot of options available, from checkerboard vinyl to rustoleum etc. I was thinking about getting some garage flooring from costco http://tinyurl.com/2fjq4gz that should help prevent gas or oil spills from soaking into the floor of the trailer and stinking it up, especially since i plan on sleeping in the trailer as well

vinyl looks cool but is deadly slick when wet, shit even if misted you'll break your neck. Vinyl also tears. I would just paint the floor. Some guys use the garage floor epoxy kits from lowes and some guys use the do it your self bed liner kits.

3. Generator

in addition to the aircon, i would also like to have a small 26" or so flat panel tv, dvd player and stereo installed in the trailer. I don't believe the combined wattage for all these items should be more than 400watts. So for the generator, should i get two honda eu2000i's with the parallel kit for a combined supply of close to 4000w or go with a yamaha ef3000iseb which would be closer to 2800w output? The downside to the honda's is that the total runtime would be less than 4 hours with the aircon running (my guess) which would mean that at some point at night i may have to get up and refuel it. The yamaha runs much longer (20 hours at 1/4 load) but is a lot heavier as well.

i was in the same boat, looking at the honda 3000 or the dual 2000s. I chose the dual 2000 generators because they are way lighter/easier to use, if i am doing something that a single 2000 can handle, i have that option, and the dual 2000 is 50% more than the 3000 and only cost 25% more. The 3000 is a heavy bitch, the 2000 can be carried like a case of beer. 👍

4. Flooring for ramp

i would like to put some grippy surface material on the ramp door. I've often seen ramps with black sandpaper like coating, anyone know what that material is and where i can purchase it from?

Hope to get some feedback on the above.🤣

max!!!

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toyota, very cool setup. The blue insulation, does it come that way from home depot? How did you attach it to the roof?

Also, how did you insulate the sides, i.e. what did you put behind the plywood on the trailer sides?

It comes that way, the blue is a vapor barrier. I didnt glue it, just fit it tight and it just sets up there. Dont glue it! And if you want, a thin 1/8" sheet of luan or birch plywood down the middle of the trailer lengthwise is fine.

I didnt insulate behind the walls. If you do, leave an air gap between the outer skin and your insulation. The outer skin WILL build up beads of sweat and run down. You want it to run down and out onto the ground. Also, no insulation the last 2" near the bottom of the wall either. I did get the foam from Home Depot, cheap and ultra light. Every ounce you add take that much from your actual payload.

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toyota, very cool setup. The blue insulation, does it come that way from home depot? How did you attach it to the roof?

Also, how did you insulate the sides, i.e. what did you put behind the plywood on the trailer sides?

Hears what I did,...http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/lin5610/DSC01068.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww49/lin5610/DSC01069.jpg

I removed the top piece of plywood and cut the insulation to fit in between the framing then stuffed it down into the space between the outside shell and the plywood. You will have to cut these strips into pieces about 3 feet long so that you can get them to fit in. I used the 1" pink panther board, Lowes didn't have it but Home depo did. I also used the spray insulation in between the short pieces as I pushed them in that will hold them in place and keep them from rattling and possibly falling through and out on to the highway.

Once done it really made for a solid feel to the walls and really cut down on the outside noise. Before it's over I know I am going to pull the ceiling down and replace the roll insulation that is there and replace it with pink panther. Some mice used this trailer for a home for years and have pulled a lot of it down and used it for nesting so I know there are some places where there is no insulation at all up there.

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i did my floors and walls in my 6X12 v-nose with Glidden Porch and Patio oil based paint. It dries harder so it handles wear and tear better than regular paint. Also you can add pumice to it to make it grippy and even ontop of that you cna add the colored flakes to give it a little color. It looks awesome in my trailer and it is super grippy even when its wet. havent had anyone slip and fall on it yet.

heres a link to some pics i posted.

https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=882001&highlight=trailer+pics

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just got some pricing from the dealer on having the factory insulate the walls and ceiling for me. Are these reasonable or can I get these done myself cheaper by removing the wood paneling and throwing some insulation in there myself?

Walls lined with white aluminum and insulated $360

Ceiling lined with white aluminum and insulated. $292

Edit: The dealer said the white aluminum is in place of the plywood sides...so I guess it would probably look nicer.

That pricing is right on the edge of good, doing the insulation on mine always took a day or two and when I was done I had plywood walls. Having done the insulation a few times I'd probably pay the manufacturer to do it if I didn't have a lot of free help.

I like the roof mount AC better that the portables, but they both work well. Like others have said, the unit taking up floor space can be annoying, but it'll mostly bother you when you're not using it. When it's cranking out the cool you will probably love it no matter where it's mounted.

I did vinyl tile on one of the floors, it's OK. Painted one, it's about as good as the tile. My favorite is cheap carpet. What I did was use a 12 foot section of carpet for the forward part of the trailer and leave the rear section of floor painted. Made for better insulation and kept it a lot quieter, but don't spill anything stinky (gas..) on the carpet, that sucks.

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