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Replacement regulator/rectifier

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What is the general consensus on which RR to use. Go back with OEM or go with aftermarket? Anyone had any experience? I really haven't found much in teh way of aftermarket RR assemblies for the DRZ. I almost bought the one listed at the OEM TT store but thought I'd better ask all of you first.

Thanks

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OEM one rarely if ever fails. It is the stator that goes belly up.

Most aftermarket RR's are sold for converting bikes to DP bikes. If you really need a new RR, I'd look in the classifieds for a used one. Chances are it will last forever.

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Yeah, I'm on my fifth stator. I was surprised so find that it was not the stator again. I second guessed myself so much I decided to leave it alone for a day and come back to with the factory service manual in case there was incorrect info on the test procedure listed on this forum. As usual, Noble was correct, and I have a faulty RR.

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What is the general consensus on which RR to use. Go back with OEM or go with aftermarket? Anyone had any experience? I really haven't found much in teh way of aftermarket RR assemblies for the DRZ. I almost bought the one listed at the OEM TT store but thought I'd better ask all of you first.

Thanks

OEM is as good as it gets... they just don’t fail under even heavy use... If wiring or the stator itself shorts to ground, or you hook up a jump pack, charger incorrectly, you might damage it.. But other than that and a small percentage of "shit happens" un diagnosed RR failures.. They are not an issue on this bike.

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Stock flywheel and stock wiring. 28k miles, very regular oil changes. Sometimes I go 800-1000 miles, but not often. I live 10 miles from town and half of that is over a dirt road so I stay on top of oil changes. OE stator lasted 6 yrs. #2 was a defect from moose, and they made it right. #3 & #4 were rebuilds from custom rewind. Running #5 right now. I'm not saying something didn't knock the RR out, but it is dead nevertheless. All wires and connections look good and have continuity. Like I said, totally surprised it was the regulator. Am going to buy a used one off the marketplace, perform free power mod, and hope. I can't find anything else wrong anywhere. Stator tests out perfect but RR failed.

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Question? What are the advantages of a wet stator vs dry?

Doesn't hot contaminated oil degrade the coatings

and zip-tys on the stator wires?

http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad132/o-ringthing/03-16-10/CopyofDSCN4947.jpg[/img]"]http://CopyofDSCN4947.jpg

http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad132/o-ringthing/03-16-10/CopyofDSCN4946.jpg[/img]"]http://CopyofDSCN4946.jpg

Good luck Desert Dog....

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Stator dies from vibration and or Over heating either heat transfer from the motor or though resistance in the coils due to excessive power draw and or I believe based on my experience that poor quality oils, which are then used in a bike in sever service contributes to stator failure

And sometimes, they just short internially... why? because it is a mass produced assemble of mass produced parts, and sometimes one of those parts was made to a lesser standard the spec-ed.

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Bronco78

Why is there oil in the stator case anyway, I know lots of bikes are like that, some have no oil in the stator side cover....? Is it to help maintain the oil temp (as in more surface contact)?....Is the level of oil to the point where it is flung around by the flywheel?

Do the small (about 1 mm wide tang) contacts of the connectors (male/female) from the very hot running regulator/rectifire to the wire harness lead, cause resistance problems?

That connector, the tangs can deform (bend) and skirt the female end.

Reading that old thread on "free power" and the amount of heat the RR puts out, I replace that connector with a more substantial connector.

thank you for the good info... PBS.... phillybeef n swiss

http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad132/o-ringthing/DSCN9851.jpg[/img]"]http://DSCN9851.jpg

Edited by phillybeef

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Bronco78

Why is there oil in the stator case anyway,

Control temp of the stator windings

having never looked inside the cover while the motor is running.... I'd make an educated guess based on my understanding of the open paths and the dry sump system.. I'd say not much oil, few oz at best is in a constant state of being flung around in the cover.

The free power mod is very effective as described in the write up... You can do it many other ways... But your not really gaining anything performance wise.

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Thankyou Bronco78

Do the stator windings create heat while generating AC?

Yes, "free power" (thread title)....No performance, ....Just durability and better 12v DC distribution.

PBS

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