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1992 TE 610, trouble strating after full rebuild


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hi guys new to the forum, I bought the above mentioned bike a few months ago and i was really happy with it until diaster struck and the big end bearing died and had to be replaced. whilst in the process of tearing down the motor i found out that the conrod was also fubar.

so after 6 weeks and a lot of spare change, the motor is fully overhauled with new oil reed

conrod kit (crank pin, thrust washers, big end bearing)

new cam chain

new rings.

now the problem part, i have the engine back in the frame, but for the life of me cannot get it to start. i hav the manual for a 1991 bike and for a 1998 bike. (yes i know mine is a 1992 but i couldnt find the correct manual 🙂 )so i check the gear on my cam and it is the same as th picture in my 1998 manual, so i went with those timing settings.

with the piston tdc the timing mark on the cam sprocket is in line with the head. at "3 0clock" pretty sure i have them spot on.

so at present with the piston TDC the cam profile suggests that the valves are closed. so i put the rocker cover back on and slowly turned the bike over a few times to let the cam chain tensioner do its thing. nothing clashed a quick check of the timing marks and all looked good. so i went for a start.

4 or 5 kicks with the choke and a huge back fire?????? got an amazing spark using an irridium plug. ive got loads of compression. there is fuel getting in there. but nothing. it isnt even trying to run?? could i be slighty out with the timing??

any sugestions would be greatly received. never owned a husky before so its been a steep learning curve for me.

thanks jon

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Hi Jon,

Have you scanned over the "tators rebuild" to double check the timing set-up,

if it fired (backfired) it must be close..??

I've got several 610 manuals myself,

I'll let you know what they say if you PM me,

Charlie - Oxford.

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With the cam timing it all depends on if you have the old type camshaft.

The early cam was used on the 610's from 1991-94 same as the older 510 models.

This is easily identified -it has an alloy cam sprocket & no auto decomp on the cam.

You set this up at TDC with all valves closed the large dot should be at 12 o'clock.The exhaust will always be the next cam to open.

On the later 1995 on, camshaft which has a steel cam sprocket the dot should be at 3 o'clcok at TDC this applies to all the 350,410,570,610 & electric start 410/610 models.1994-2009

You will find sometimes that somebody has put the later cam drive into the earlier bikes as it is all transferable.If all original your cam should be the alloy sprocket type if so your cam timing will be out she will never start.

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thanks for the quick history lesson, i believe i have the more recent style cam on my bike, steel sprocket and the clever centrifugal auto decompression device fitted. i have look at tators build but could not find any pictures of his timing setup, it is so close, ive since had the carb apart and cleaned it, there was alot of crud in the filter but no joy,

could the cam be 180 degrees, out as suggested above??? I did have the sprocket off to refit the camchain.

Thankd for all the help

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i posted the timimg marks set up in another post..

set the fly wheel at TDC...make sure the cam gear dot is in line with the top of the head, at the front of the engine,

its easier if 2 people do this...have one person hold the TDC marks on the flywheel, while the other sets the cam gear.

after you get it set, and have the cam chain tensioner set.. rotate the engine a few times by hand, and recheck the marks. to make sure you have all the slack taken up.

make darn sure the auto decomp is hooked up and working, or you will be replacing the kickstart shaft..

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the auto decomp seems to be working fine, as i understand it at higher revs it throws out the small centrifugal weight which turns a shaft and set into the exhaust cam which in turn flattens the closed half of the cam profile,and allows the valves to fully seat. and thanks i have the cam set 180 degrees from were you are saying so i will try this tonight. Will get pics up wen i get her running :-)

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its alive :-) had the husky running for a brief time today, and ridden it, the cam timing was 180 degrees out as mentioned above,

still got a few nigles, serious clutch drag, plates are new???? And it will not idle, on its own. could this be because of the oil?? Im usin plutoline semi synthetic motorcyle oil 20w 50 as it was recommended by my local shop, could it be too thick??

Im serioulsy chuffed that she runs thanks for all the help guys :-)

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  • 6 months later...

I have the same issue !!

original problem was that the camchain juped a few teeth as worn, so new cam chain and sliders added. Worked ok and then slipped again !

This time woodruff key snapped, but also noticed that the magnets were loose, reglued, hopefully in the right position to the marks ?

So with dot on cam sprocket lined up to 3 oclock on head, with cam in position upwards like rabbit ears at tdc, looks like the firing alignment on the rotor casing is about 1 oclock ish ? does this sound about right ?

But still will not start arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Any help would be appreciated 😏

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I have the same issue !!

original problem was that the camchain juped a few teeth as worn, so new cam chain and sliders added. Worked ok and then slipped again !

This time woodruff key snapped, but also noticed that the magnets were loose, reglued, hopefully in the right position to the marks ?

So with dot on cam sprocket lined up to 3 oclock on head, with cam in position upwards like rabbit ears at tdc, looks like the firing alignment on the rotor casing is about 1 oclock ish ? does this sound about right ?

But still will not start arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Any help would be appreciated 😏

Taliesin ,

they are in south wales and should be able to reset your magnets,

or supply other info and parts,

good luck,

Charlie

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