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Kdx fork rebuild--- help w compression adj.


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I am in the process of rebuilding the forks on my 90 kdx and have a prob.

I can't get the caps off the bottom of the forks. It is a 14 mm hex which I got but that sucker is stuck on there and not budging. Is there a trick to getting it out?

I can't separate the inner and outer tubes without removing the cyl unit can I?

I need help asap since I Kinda in the middle of this thing. The manual says to remove the cyl valve assembly before splitting the tubes

Thx.

Keith

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It is 14mm hex on the compression adjuster portion. You have to hold the damper rod with a 30mm nut on the end of a rod. It may be pretty stuck after all these years. A short burst of air impact may be needed. Don't spin the heck out of it, though. You can damage the o-ring quickly.

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Okay so I can just weld a 30mm socket to a piece of 1/2" pipe and add a t handle?

I have the 14mm hex and tried undoing that last night and it wouldn't budge. I'll try using some heat maybe that will help...

no, backwards, weld a nut to a 1/2" pipe, its like a big allen head

tool:

9e1eb4c9-f83d-4a1e-a23b-73015bdb36a7.jpg

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I guess this is where i am confused. Does the nut go down though the fork tube. How long is the tool? It looks like it would need to be 2' long at least.

yes it goes inside the fork tube and fits in what looks like a 6 point socket or a realy big allen, get a flashlight and look down in there. the tool is hollow to allow the damper rod to pass through. i think its about 18" or so, i have the one pictured, 2 ft would work for sure

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Well 33mm = 1.18

So a 1 1/4 will be to big and a 1" will be to small. I feel kinda like I don't have many options right now....

i thought we were looking at a 30mm nut? and i was just giving an approximation, i didnt do the math. im guessing that was a typo because i get 1.18" for 30mm, 1 1/16 is pretty common, 1.0625 may work.... or just buy the tool

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Well I just went ahead and ordered the tool from FRP. I was getting frustrated searching for this stupid nut so the rebuild will Ned to wait intil next week when i get the tool.

Looks like i will do the steering stem bearings this weekend since I got the wheel bearings done last night. New bearings are so nice.

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I have the FRP tool. It's great. It has the 20mm end for the older forks, as well as being hollow with a 27mm nut for the 1995+ forks. I have the factory tools for both models and prefer to use the FRP tool.

OOPS!! By the way, no you can not get the tubes seperated without removing the damper rod, which is what you are trying to do.

If you have a T-bar, with a square drive on it, use that and a 27mm socket to hold the exposed end. A long breaker bar and 14mm hex bit socket work well on the bottom of the fork.

For anyone who reads this in the future, the FRP tool is a tool for conventional forks, not the USD forks.

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