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I have a 2001 XR650L and it will die running down the road or sitting. I replaced the coil, wire, and plug, but to no avail. I was told the cdi goes out and that's it done. I thought it might be the kill switch, but I removed and hard wired it. When it runs it runs great. After it dies with a spark tester on it, you can start it quickly and it will run but miss like it is off in timing, sputtering and back firing. Any thoughts?

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I have a 2001 XR650L and it will die running down the road or sitting. I replaced the coil, wire, and plug, but to no avail. I was told the cdi goes out and that's it done. I thought it might be the kill switch, but I removed and hard wired it. When it runs it runs great. After it dies with a spark tester on it, you can start it quickly and it will run but miss like it is off in timing, sputtering and back firing. Any thoughts?

Flip the CDI over smack the back of it sharply a bunch of times with a screwdriver handle.......if it runs better it needs a CDI.......I`m not saying it couldn`t be a fuel problem........

But if it runs better it`s the solder joints in the CDI,I repair these for free if you`re interested..PM me:thumbsup:

B

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Fuel tank vent? If you have a CA model, those have a hose going from the fuel cap to emissions equipment, if that has malfuntioned, it may not be letting the tank breath properly. Just take the hose off the cap and see if that helps.

The are several things that may cause it. If you do the simple process of elimination, and still haven't found the source, techforlife on ADVrider.com fixes XR650L CDIs for free, but make sure that is the problem before you have him open it up. The CDIs on these bikes is the main failure point, so much so that switching to a XR600R CDI has been done by someone on here.

Edited by Onederer
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Thanks good places to start. I believe it is spark because I can watch it with a spark tester go away. New fuel and tank. Also removed all smog stuff but don't let Calif. authorities know:).

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Fuel tank vent? If you have a CA model, those have a hose going from the fuel cap to emissions equipment, if that has malfuntioned, it may not be letting the tank breath properly. Just take the hose off the cap and see if that helps.

The are several things that may cause it. If you do the simple process of elimination, and still haven't found the source, techforlife on ADVrider.com fixes XR650L CDIs for free, but make sure that is the problem before you have him open it up. The CDIs on these bikes is the main failure point, so much so that switching to a XR600R CDI has been done by someone on here.

See my post above Onederer..........i am techforlife on ADVrider......i know..i tried to get Rich to change my name here.......but i`d have to start a new account...kinda sucks...oh well........

But to the OP,,,,IF it is the CDI smacking it with a screwdriver will jar the solder joints and retore the CDI to usable condition for a short time,,helps with diagnosis and will not hurt the CDI at all//

Brian

Edited by brianhare
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See my post above Onederer..........i am techforlife on ADVrider......i know..i tried to get Rich to change my name here.......but i`d have to start a new account...kinda sucks...oh well........

Brian

I didn't notice your post before I posted, at least you are able to use the same avatar. If you were fixing CDIs when mine went out, I would have donated it to you to fix and give to whoever needed one, that said, if I have another one quit, that is exactly what I'll do. The last one just went in the trash:(

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I didn't notice your post before I posted, at least you are able to use the same avatar. If you were fixing CDIs when mine went out, I would have donated it to you to fix and give to whoever needed one, that said, if I have another one quit, that is exactly what I'll do. The last one just went in the trash:(

Yeah i just changed my avatar,,so it might help or worsen the confusion:lol:

If you get another bad CDI let me know.i`ll fix it up for you,it`s some sweet to have a spare in your kit on real long rides,very reasurring in the least:thumbsup:

B

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Last month just before TT went back to the old format I started up a thread almost exactly as this one. My L would miss, and die randomly, was it fuel or electrical related, etc. After eliminating all the fuel related possibilities turns out it was the CDI after all.

Although the unit is fitted with a rubber protector, when I pulled out the old one I noticed one corner of the unit itself had been in contact with the battery housing and that the corner was covered in a fine powder as though vibration had ground down the CDIs epoxy shell. That is the only physical evidence of damage I could see.

So brianhare, these CDIs can be repaired.... If you would please PM me about what I can do to repair my old unit I would be very grateful. It sure looks like vibration is the culprit for breaking those solder points.

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Last month just before TT went back to the old format I started up a thread almost exactly as this one. My L would miss, and die randomly, was it fuel or electrical related, etc. After eliminating all the fuel related possibilities turns out it was the CDI after all.

Although the unit is fitted with a rubber protector, when I pulled out the old one I noticed one corner of the unit itself had been in contact with the battery housing and that the corner was covered in a fine powder as though vibration had ground down the CDIs epoxy shell. That is the only physical evidence of damage I could see.

So brianhare, these CDIs can be repaired.... If you would please PM me about what I can do to repair my old unit I would be very grateful. It sure looks like vibration is the culprit for breaking those solder points.

The CDI is really the only part that seems to really fail on these bikes..they are very reliable except that......keeping one in your bag is cheap insurance,peace of mind too.......and if it acts up funny you can swap it for a known good one and diagnose the bike a lot easier/faster.....

Having it fixed is a cheap alternative.......and a great spare:thumbsup:

PM sent,,,,,,,,,,,

B

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is ther a way to test the CDI. I have had problems with my 08 xrl dying on the highway and at stoplights. Fuel system checks out OK and I have jumpered out the kickstand switch. It will die idling on the stand in the garage. I have tried thumping on the box while it is running to see if I could recreat the problem and have had no luck. ­čśĆ

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Is ther a way to test the CDI. I have had problems with my 08 xrl dying on the highway and at stoplights. Fuel system checks out OK and I have jumpered out the kickstand switch. It will die idling on the stand in the garage. I have tried thumping on the box while it is running to see if I could recreat the problem and have had no luck. ­čśĆ

Did you take the CDI out a wack it with a screwdriver handle on the back of the module???????..this will usually make it run for a bit so you know this is the problem..

Hitting the battery box will not help any,,the CDI is potted in a rubber material and hitting it with a few good sharp wacks all over the back of it will cause the bad solder joints to close up a little........

Next time it quits try that,if it runs let me know..­čśĆ

B

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When the bike dies it usually fires back up without hesitation I haven't had to thump on it to get it to come back. I was thumping on it to try to see if this is why it is dying. is there another way to diagnose electronic problems other than with a Hammer!

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When the bike dies it usually fires back up without hesitation I haven't had to thump on it to get it to come back. I was thumping on it to try to see if this is why it is dying. is there another way to diagnose electronic problems other than with a Hammer!

Sure,get a service manual for specs,check the pulse generator hot and you can ohm every wire,switch,safety switches etc.........once you`ve proven that everything else is good through process of elimination then you can feel better about getting a new CDI............

But,there is no real decent test for the CDI...it`s a "swap with known good component" type of diagnostic routine.....

I had mine quit about 5 times last fall,,i thought i was out of fuel,idle too low,dirt in the carb..........all those turned out good.......the CDI was the prob...so i tore into it and found bad cold solder joints......repaired it......then found out alot of people had this problem and i offered to repair them for free...i`m now up to about 30 or so done so far since about february..most are from Cali.....but i`ve sent them back repaired to places like Greece,Africa.and all over the States.....

One things for sure,,it will fail,with enough miles/time......and having a spare in your possesion is nice..

B

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I had a bike once that would die like you describe. Turned out to be the wire harness up around the steering head. I cranked it, turned the bars, and it died. So I pealed back the insulation until I got to the wires and felt for a place that felt thin. Almost all the wires in the harness had broken thru but would touch if the bars were straight, but break contact when turned. I soldered all the wires back and wrapped it back up, ran great after that. Just thought I'd offer that in case you haven't checked the harness.

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BH repaired a cdi for me. It has been working good as new for about 3 months. Another sign you CDI is going out. Next time your bike dies/turns off. Look at your gages, if the nutaral light is on. That indication that the cdi is not working. When the cdi is not working it stop completing a circuit so the light will go on even if its not in nutaral. Thanks Again Teckforlife,Ben

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BH repaired a cdi for me. It has been working good as new for about 3 months. Another sign you CDI is going out. Next time your bike dies/turns off. Look at your gages, if the nutaral light is on. That indication that the cdi is not working. When the cdi is not working it stop completing a circuit so the light will go on even if its not in nutaral. Thanks Again Teckforlife,Ben

Not a problem Ben,glad to hear she`s running good..that`s interesting what you said about the neutral light......i`ve never heard of that before..

B

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