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Resetting the magnets in a 610 flywheel


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i have a problem.

the magnets in my flywheel, have come away from the flywheel itself. so i have read through loads of posts wer people have had this happen, i have cleaned the offending parts and im ready to reset them, i have downloaded a degree wheel from machinarycleanery.com and laminated it and jotted down what i think are the correct settings, just a few quick questions as i dont want to mess this up. :-/

p.s have a ducati flywheel and cdi unit and the bike is a 1992 610te

1. am i correct in thinking that the trigger magnet needs to be set at 10 degrees BTDC??

2. The trigger magnet tht i have identified by its deeper dimple,

3. Are all twelve magnets the same strength?? As i have one magnet that is significantly weaker than the other 11 and it is NOT the trigger magnet??

4. If the trigger magnet is to be set at 10 degrees BTDC, shall i use the leading edge of this magnet or the centre, to line up with 10 degrees BTDC??

Any help would be greatly appeciated :-)

jon

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If only it were that simple?? the magnets came out in a large ring all in one piece, but the inside of the flywheel is so badly corroded (probably why they came unstuck in the first place) that i couldnt tell were the origional positioning was.

I have since wire wooled all the parts for a good surface to bond to,but dont want to bond them out of sync, or the plug will not spark at the correct time and the bike will never run.

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ahhhh,,, well, maybe George will chime in..last one i reglued, was pretty easy.

though i did clean like you did..i marked the places that the magnets sat in first..

might try..

setting at TDC...then match the magnet with a pickup on the stator..

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Just like HuskyChuck said. Look for the old marks on the flywheel where the magnets were originally set.

I had a 1991 Husqvarna WXE260 2-stroke that had problem with the magnets coming unglued every couple of months or so.

If I remember I went through 2 or 3 complete ignitions where the magnet would just came unglued, finally I god fed up with it and just re-epoxied them and never had a problem again.

If I remember correctly that bike passed through the hands of 5 different owners since 1994 and is still ripping around in the new Jersey pines with that same ignition today.

Epoxy works good. 🙂

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i live in th uk, so shipping isnt a viable idea, and there are absolulty no visable markings on the inside of the flywheel at all, before i cleaned it looked like it had been at the bottom of the ocean for 12 mnths. i will try with the ifno i have gathered on here and use the centre of the trigger magnet to align the timing.

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i live in th uk, so shipping isnt a viable idea, and there are absolulty no visable markings on the inside of the flywheel at all, before i cleaned it looked like it had been at the bottom of the ocean for 12 mnths. i will try with the ifno i have gathered on here and use the centre of the trigger magnet to align the timing.

Send it to Talesin Racing, he did mine a couple of years ago for £50 posted.

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  • 6 months later...

Hi Mate, How did you get on with the magnets after? I have the same problem, I have glued them in place by aligning the dimple with the arrow mark thats on the inside flat face, this looks like that its firing at about 1 oclock , i.e. 10 degrees past TDC, i cannot get it to start, this was with the marking of the cam sprocket set a t 3 0clock aligned to the head? somebody posted that it should align with the front face of the head, i.e. 9 oclock? but may manual says 3 o clock??

Anybody know how much , if i give the engine to Taliesin, with the rocker cover off?, so that can check all the timing alignment and check the cam / magnet / rotor position?

Cheers Elvis

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  • 3 weeks later...

hey dude. i sorted my husky out :-) its now ripping round its a real beast.

i made both the same mistakes you have lol. 1st the manual is the same as mine. and it was written by someone thats never even seen a husqvarna in my opinion. lol. set the cam timing so the dimple @ 9 oclock. this is oposite what the manual says but its right. also your ignition timing needs to be 10 degrees BEFORE TDC. not after. your ignition is to far retarded. set them roughly @ 11 oclock instead of 1 and fine tweak the timing. you can do this on the stator plate by rotating it. hope this helps. do you live in the uk??

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Thanks Leachie, Glad to hear that you have sorted the bike.

Im in South Wales, near Cardiff. Ive removed the magnets to try and realign, and ive broken one of the magnets arghhhhhhhhhhhh.

Ive heard that taliesin racing in Llanelli, can set it all up for me, so will take it there on payday!! Where are u in the uk?

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  • 1 month later...

hi, how did you get on with the husky in the end??? I live in manchester but will definatley be goin to wales this year to do some trail riding. Ive had another disaster with my husky, the kickstart shaft snapped so im in the middle of repairing it whilst my new one wings its way here from america. Brand new £70.

Hope you got the bike sorted.

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you mean the shaft Husky told me would never break???lol.

after 5 or 6 that bent broke ect, i finally converted it to a pre 88 kick start shaft, they are a bit shorter, and you will have to modify the case to make it fit right, but they dont bend or break.

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thanks for the heads up, is your pre 88 shaft the type with a spring and a pawl in a sort of rachet mechanism to activate the starter gear?? Im in the middle of repairing the broken one at the moment, parts supply for the 92 husky is hard enough let alone a pre 88. It seems you have much better parts supply in the states than we do here in the uk

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pretty much 82 to 88 are the same kickstart shafts,

heres what they changed after 1988.

added a second O ring, and another notch, made a small radius on the side cover, help with the 1/8 of an inch longer shaft..

changed the material to investment case steel, they bend easy, and break were the second O ring is,

iv never had one leak oil with one O ring. even if it did, i doubt it would be enough to worry about..thats what a car wash is for...

the early kickstart shafts are real heat treated steel, and they last..they beefed them up for the early 510,s thumpers and 500 smokers... you may want to change out to a 88 style kicker lever, they are about an inch longer and have better boot contact, and are much nicer on your legs...

make sure your auto decomp is in working order, the little spring can break and it will fail, that will break your kick start shaft as well.

i had to grind off the little ridge around the shaft hole, and i dont use a clip anymore t hod the lever on, i use Ohshit wire, after loosing a few 100.00 kickstart levers over the years, the wire works much better,,,it aint purty...but it works.

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well you hit the nail clean in the head there huskychuck. Mine sheared exactly through where the second o ring should have been. BUT i had a plan and yesterday completed it, i centre drilled the 2halfs of the broken shaft and put a 6mm steel pin down the complete length, i then put it in the centre laithe and clocked it up to make sure it was running true, and welded the sucker up.

So no more second O ring groove. I then turned it down to the correct tolerence and made sure it was a nice fit. It was so i heated it up till it was cherry red and dropped it in some warm oil too cool nice and slowly.

Its now hard as hell and back in the bike so ill see how long it lasts haha. I donrt reli knw much about metal, as i work for an advanced engineering plastics firm. But hopefully my repair will work.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

Hey can i ask about the magnets, did you take the 10 degrees before from the arrow on the flywheel case or from the aligned woodruff key at tdc?

Also did you align the dimple or the leading edge?

As it stands i have my magnets set to be rebonded with the dimple of the primary magnet at around 11 oclock as you look at the flywheel with the woodruff key at 12 and the arrow at around 3 oclock.

Is that how yours was?

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