Jump to content

Serious 650XRL problem...Please Help


Recommended Posts

Fellas, I really need some help here, hopefully you guys can give me some guidance. Here is the bike, 2007, 14500Km, Daves mods, uncorked.

I went to meet some buddies at the local riding spot. I arrived there on my bike, it ran great. I shut down to help my buddies unload their bikes out of their trucks. When every one was ready we fired up to takeoff...everyone but me! My bike wouldnt start, I thought maybe I flooded it, so I waited a bit and hit the starter again, as it was turning over all of a sudden it started clunking. I though it may be the starter, we were on a bit of a hill so I decided to try and push start, as I got up enough speed I popped the clutch in second and then my bike really stated with the metalic clunking, I stopped immediatley, the bike never did fire.

I loaded up my bike in a buddies truck and drove home, pissst off. I started taking the bike apart. Here is where I need some help. The valve clearence all seems pretty good but every time I turn the motor over, as it comes around to top dead center it stops with a metalic clunk. It then takes a lot of force to turn it over again with the socket wrench but it finally breaks free again and will turn over until it reaches TDC again and stops with a horrible metalic clunk:foul:

Any deas on what the problem is, Ive already started takng the motor out as I know this is a bad one!

Please help, thanks guys:banghead:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fellas, I really need some help here, hopefully you guys can give me some guidance. Here is the bike, 2007, 14500Km, Daves mods, uncorked.

I went to meet some buddies at the local riding spot. I arrived there on my bike, it ran great. I shut down to help my buddies unload their bikes out of their trucks. When every one was ready we fired up to takeoff...everyone but me! My bike wouldnt start, I thought maybe I flooded it, so I waited a bit and hit the starter again, as it was turning over all of a sudden it started clunking. I though it may be the starter, we were on a bit of a hill so I decided to try and push start, as I got up enough speed I popped the clutch in second and then my bike really stated with the metalic clunking, I stopped immediatley, the bike never did fire.

I loaded up my bike in a buddies truck and drove home, pissst off. I started taking the bike apart. Here is where I need some help. The valve clearence all seems pretty good but every time I turn the motor over, as it comes around to top dead center it stops with a metalic clunk. It then takes a lot of force to turn it over again with the socket wrench but it finally breaks free again and will turn over until it reaches TDC again and stops with a horrible metalic clunk:foul:

Any deas on what the problem is, Ive already started takng the motor out as I know this is a bad one!

Please help, thanks guys:banghead:

Pull the valve cover,,,,,,see if the valve timing is off....pull the spark plug,is it good,metal on it,bent electrode??????

Next up is pulling the head........I`m thinking it jumped the timing chain.......

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes it does this on every rotation, my bad, not just at TDC. The spark plug looks good.

ThumpNRed please advise, the clunk does sound more toward the bottom end but its hard to tell.

I would follow the advice posted earlier and rule out the topend (easier stuff). Bottom end issues (typically bearings) will reveal themselves during the teardown (should it come to that). Keep thinking timing chain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bet the cam chain slipped. If so, it's certainly time to replace it - they DO wear out. If it's just the chain, it's not a big deal.

Anyway, check your timing to be sure. You'll need to remove your valve cover. If it was me, I'd just yank the engine but I think I've heard the cover can be removed without removing the engine. The engine may need to be unbolted and dropped down, but hey, how much more trouble is it to just remove it?

Removing the engine has two advantages, you can do the work on your work bench rather than hunched over. And 2nd, it will allow you to inspect/clean a lot of things that are hard to get to otherwise.

It sounds like the piston may be hitting a valve, hopefully it's not bent. You can re-lap the valves to be sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your replys guys, I will be working away at getting the engine out of the bike. I tried to get the valve cover off last night and I couldnt seem to get out, it was just to tight to the upper portion of the frame.

I will be relying heavily on everyones advice and guidance as I am no mechanic but have been wrenching on my bikes all my life, thanks for your input so far.

Akarob what do you mean when you say "re-lap" the valves?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your replys guys, I will be working away at getting the engine out of the bike. I tried to get the valve cover off last night and I couldnt seem to get out, it was just to tight to the upper portion of the frame.

I will be relying heavily on everyones advice and guidance as I am no mechanic but have been wrenching on my bikes all my life, thanks for your input so far.

Akarob what do you mean when you say "re-lap" the valves?

Re-lapping is a process where you put some gritty paste (lapping compound) on the valve face (sealing surface) and spin the valve back and forth. First you need to remove the valves and clean off the carbon. Re-lapping is done without the springs installed. Typically, you clamp a hose over the stem and spin it between your hands.

F-it, I made a video, why am I typing?

Just watch...

Part 1

Part 2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, there's an easy way to see if your chain is stretched. With the chain on the cam sprocket, hold the chain on the sides (3 & 9 o-clock) and with the other hand, hold the chain the the top of the sprocket & try pulling straight up. If it wants to stay tight on the sprocket, it's fine. If it wiggles more than 1/32", it's stretched. I could move mine about 1/4" up and down - it was shot.

The tensioner is shot if you can move it in reverse direction at all. It's only supposed to allow the pin to move one way. If in doubt, replace it & the spring - it's not too expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your replys guys, I will be working away at getting the engine out of the bike. I tried to get the valve cover off last night and I couldnt seem to get out, it was just to tight to the upper portion of the frame.

The carb and boot have to come off to make room so you can move the head cover over to where the carb was. Then it comes right out the side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks HeadTrauma I will try that instead of taking the motor out. Hopefully I can do whatever repairs I need to with it in the bike, less bolts I have to take out the less chances of stripping or breaking something the better. I dont seem to be very lucky these days!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks HeadTrauma I will try that instead of taking the motor out. Hopefully I can do whatever repairs I need to with it in the bike, less bolts I have to take out the less chances of stripping or breaking something the better. I dont seem to be very lucky these days!!

Like i said,pull the valve cover,check if the timing chain has jumped,if not pull the head...see what you find........and if it`s farther down,,,well at least pulling the lower cases will be lighter.....these aren`t really easy to wrestle out with everything still on them..they are heavy and ackward:thumbsup:

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well guys, I pulled the head off and it found the problem:foul: One of my ehaust valve seats let go/broke and bits were floating in the cylinder.

So what do I do now. The top of the piston is damaged with a few small gouges but when I cycle the piston I cant see any damage to the cylinder walls. Do you think I could still use this piston?

As for the cylinder head, there is damage around the one exaust valve seat. Would it be possible to get this repaired, perhaps by getting it machined and installing a larger OD valve? Or do I need a new cylinder head:banghead: I will insert some pics ASAP.

On a positive note, while my beloved pig is down I bought a street legal 2006 crfx twith a big bore kit to 488 to get me through the summer. I actiually bought the L for its rock solid track record when I was deciding to buy an XRL or a CRFX only to be let down:bonk: So I figured if this is the way it going to be, wrenching on bikes, I might as well wrench on a preformance machine.

I must say that CRFX is an amazing bike, you cant compare the two, they are totally different, I quickly fell in love with my X. However I could tell right off the bat that for any long distance rides I will be reaching for the L ....once I get it fixed:banghead:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You likely can still use the piston. You will want to smooth out any rough spots though... otherwise may serve as hot spots that will induce pinging. Without seeing the head, it's hard to guess if it can be salvaged.

At least it wasn't bottom end. This is minor in comparison. Sounds like you are going to have a good stable of scooters by the time it's all said and done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How deep is the gouge in the piston? It doesn't look that bad in the photo. The head damage doesn't look good.

Looks like about $300 American for a replacement -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-XR650L-XR-650L-XR-650-L-MOTOR-CYLINDER-HEAD-USED-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a083aea56QQitemZ180526705238QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...