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BEWARE of NEW OILS


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Folks,

--- BEWARE --- The time has come to REALLY check API Service categories on engine oils.

Oil companies are putting more friction reducing additives in their oils, which means our 4 stroke clutches will slip and worse, check out my story.

For years, I had purchased (from Costco) Rotella T oil outlined below and it ran great, 2005-2010.

My last visit to Costco, no Rotella T, So I bought Chevron DELO 400 outlined below.

Clutch slipped on MX starting gate, particles from clutch clogged up screens, etc, seized cylinder head cams, $1500 repair.

Diesel_221

---- Shell Rotella T Sites ----

Home Page: http://rottella.com

Rotella T, 15-40W

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/triple_protection_detail.html

Key in the specifications is the following spec:

JASO DH-2, MA

Basically, means OK for motorcycles with single sump, wet clutches.

---- Chevron Delo Sites ----

DELO 400, SAE 15W-40

Home Page: http://www.deloperformance.com/

No such API certifications.

--- API CERTIFICATION REFERENCE ---

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/index.cfm

And watch out for upgrades, for example Rotella T Hypothetical-New Formulation, this might not have the JASO DH2, MA certification in addition to whatever your manual specifies.

I hope this helps some folks save his/her engine.

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Over and over I say it why are you running "engine oil" in a transmission?

cuz most motorcycles don't have a seperate transmission oil ๐Ÿ˜

Rotella T works great in everything I own. Even the Honda CRF

Delo was reformulated a while back and IMHO no longer belongs in a motorcycle, belongs in my Superduty Diesel.

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cuz most motorcycles don't have a seperate transmission oil ๐Ÿ˜

Rotella T works great in everything I own. Even the Honda CRF

Delo was reformulated a while back and IMHO no longer belongs in a motorcycle, belongs in my Superduty Diesel.

I forget I'm still in mini dad mode with the 2 strokes, sorry.

All I remember about Delo 400 is the glaze buildup in engine blocks. Had some street racers who worked for a local mining company, guess they just happened to think that the diesel oil worked good in their hopped up v-8's. Some never could get a good ring seal after going through the motor themselves, they had to have the block hot tanked and honed to get the glaze out.

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So Rotella 15W40 is still good?

yes and always will be.๐Ÿ˜

just another reason why I dont like change... keep it the same old way, use the same oil. if theyre out of our fav oil, too bad, get it somewhere else or wait.

too many times ive seen my younger brothers grab a random jug of 15w50 off the shelf for the bike, probably about 10 different brands of oils have been through their bikes!

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I forget I'm still in mini dad mode with the 2 strokes, sorry.

All I remember about Delo 400 is the glaze buildup in engine blocks. Had some street racers who worked for a local mining company, guess they just happened to think that the diesel oil worked good in their hopped up v-8's. Some never could get a good ring seal after going through the motor themselves, they had to have the block hot tanked and honed to get the glaze out.

Then can you explain why diesel engines don't have ring sealing problems when using Delo?

I'm not a Delo user, but my father is, he runs it in all his farm equipment, including his ATV (which by the way has never had a single thing done internally since he bought it new in 1983).

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The Delo 400 in question was the Delo 400 LE, lots more friction reducer

I had a $2000 bike, went on one last moto to make sure it was solid for next buyer, and I now have $1500 in repairs.

Bike is basically totaled.

Show some empathy folks, others are going to fall victim to this, not only in dirt bikes, but street bikes as well.

Good luck, you can still get Rotalla T on Amazon.

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The Delo 400 in question was the Delo 400 LE, lots more friction reducer

I had a $2000 bike, went on one last moto to make sure it was solid for next buyer, and I now have $1500 in repairs.

Bike is basically totaled.

Show some empathy folks, others are going to fall victim to this, not only in dirt bikes, but street bikes as well.

Good luck, you can still get Rotalla T on Amazon.

how does a slipping clutch cause 1500 worth of damage, what do you think happens when a quick rider blat's outa a corner? a whole lota clutch slipping, if it was slipping enough for you to notice then you should have stopped strait away and babies it back to the pits, something else must have been up, prehaps that particular oil didn't react well with a seal in the engine or the friction material in the clutch? but if it was just clutch slipping then i can't see how that would cause to much damage unless you tried to ride it for an entire moto with the slipping clutch.

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I find it amusing when people blame a mechanical problem likely caused by their lack of proper inspection/maintenance on anything else but themselves.

Your slipping clutch was in all likelihood caused by worn plates and/or fatigued springs. It was time for a clutch but you ignored the symptoms and kept riding anyway. You caused your engine failure, not the oil.

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someone asked how he had $1500 in repairs from a clutch slipping, i read from the original poster that the clutch particles clogged the oil pump screen and the motor siezed. That could easily result in a $1500 bill including labor.

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As long as the API ratings are correct and the viscosity range is right, 'diesel' oil (like Rotella T6 synthetic) will work just fine in a wet clutch bike.

Do not get oil with 'friction modifiers' or 'energy saver' oil - won't work for bikes with wet clutches. Otherwise, any good synthetic with SL/CF and/or better yet JASO-MA ratings and the right weight will work.

I run a particular 10W-50 Mobil synthetic because it is a good oil and it has the right API ratings.

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I find it amusing when people blame a mechanical problem likely caused by their lack of proper inspection/maintenance on anything else but themselves.

Your slipping clutch was in all likelihood caused by worn plates and/or fatigued springs. It was time for a clutch but you ignored the symptoms and kept riding anyway. You caused your engine failure, not the oil.

Agreed!

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