General info "HELP"

I still haven't received a manual for my 2000 yz426 and I can't find general info about it. I found a drain plug under the crankcase. Not much fluid came out which made me wonder where the oil drain plug was. I found it and drained the oil and filled it up with yamalube. What is the bottom drain? Where do I fill it and with what type of fluid. It has been 15 years since I had a bike and I'm lost when it comes to maintenance. Can someone tell me what I need to do to keep it up until I receive my manual? Do I need to check any other fluids? Where is the oil filter located? Fuel filter? Yes, I am lost and need a lot of help...I have been riding hard and loving it, but I'm guessing the bikes is going to need some serious care soon.

One more thing. I got some air in a double and landed bad and bottomed out.(Yes it hurt)Is it difficult to adjust the spring/shock? Is the 426 a good jumping bike? I let off the throttle before leaving the jump which I have learned doesn't work well. A whole lot different than a two stroke.......... Thanks for your patience and time.....


God Bless


first thing is this.......

trust me i learned the hard way.There are two (2) drain plugs on the 400/426. on in the bottom that you already found and the bolt on the front of the frame is for the resevoir. you need to drain both .

The oil filter is on ther right side a little left and above the water pump. I think it has 3 or 4 bolt holding it on. They are kinda spendy so my friend at the dealership sugg to just rinse out backward w/solvent or gas and let dry. It is a wire mesh filter so it shouldnt wear out for a while with some care.

But I do make sure to clean it at least every other oil change.

As far as the air filter make sure you keep up on it too. Just a hint......dont oil the air filter closer than 4 or 5 hrs b4 you ride.

This will cause very large migrane!!!!

I will be very hard to start and probably dirty up your carb with filter oil due to the huge sucking of the 400/426.

that is my $.02

anything else let us know on the board.

There is a ton of informative ppl on this board.

I myself have learned tons in the past few weeks alone!



ride BLUE


your oil filter is located on the right side of your bike under the head is held on with a 2 8mm bolts and an allen head. There are 2 oil drain bolts one under the engine (which you already found) and one located on the frame (below your front fender and close to the exhasut port 12 mm bolt as you know the YZ is a dry sump meaning it carries oil through the frame) Also check your radiator fluid...there is no fuel filter installed from the factory! And some common maintainence you should do is clean your air filter (underneath the seat, seat is held on by 2 10mm bolts, make sure you buy some air filter oil for your air filter), tighten your spokes, check chain slack, tire air pressure, engine bolts, sprocket bolts, etc!

Yes, the YZ426 is a great bike to actually is the best bike on jumps and straights that I have ever ridden! And on a 4 stroke you MUST keep the gas on up a jump until you are in the air (due to engine braking) if you dont you will nose dive severely (I heard about a 2 stroke guy get on his friends brand new YZ426 and tried to jump a 110ft tabletop like he did on his 2 stroke and he wrecked very badly he broke his back and broke both of his femurs and separated his forks from the frame which broke the frame tube, i personally did not know the guy but it happened at Highlands MX if any of you are wondering) this is not to scare you ...but make sure you get comfortable with how the 4 stroke jumps before you go for "big air" but once you get comfortable this bike will reward you with its awesome handling! You came to the right site to find info on the YZ426! There is a lot of guys on here that "know their stuff" and are very helpful! Have fun on your 426 and be careful!



I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!

Friendswood, TX

Thanks for the info. So I fill up the resevoir only? I took the screw(under crankcase)out and it is still bone dry. This is ok? This is nowhere else to put oil? Thanks so much for the help.

This is how you change the oil ( I will just repeat the process and make it easier to understand )

1) Warm up the bike for 2-3 mins

2) Then unscrew the bolt in the frame and let all the oil drain out, most of your oil comes out of the frame (make sure you turn the wheel because oil will spill all over your front tire and brake)

3) Now unscrew the bolt under the engine and let it drain (about 1/3 of your total oil will come out)

4) Now go find the oil filter and remove the 3 bolts that hold it on (2 8mm's and an allen)

5) Now when you take the oil filter cover off you will see a blue rubber seal (do not lose it) now pull the filter out and clean with contact cleaner, carb cleaner, water and soap, etc and let it dry (5 mins under the fan)

6) Now install the filter back in (it will only go in one way because the cap will not go on if you put it in the wrong way)

7) Now make sure all your oil drain bolts are back in ( DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM ) they should be snug but not too tight!

8) Now look for the dipstick in the frame (by your handlebars and in front of your gas tank) now unscrew the dipstick and put it on a rag so you can add oil. The manual calls for 1.6 quarts (when you clean the oil filter) so add 1 quart first and then open up the 2nd quart of oil (pour it slowly because it has a tendency to overflow if you pour it in too fast)

9) Now once you have added the oil just double check all your bolts to make sure you didnt forget to put them in...then start you bike and ride it for 10 mins or so (to let the oil pressure build up and get it pumped through the system) then unscrew the dipstick and wipe it off (make sure the bike is standing upright). Now put the dipstick back in (but do not screw it back in) now pull it out and look where the oil line is it should be fairly close to the "full" line (dont panic if it is not if you drain all you oil right and you added 1.6 quarts you have the right amount of oil, you just didnt ride it long enough to stabilize the oil)

Now that folks was probably the longest description on how to change your oil (you can make checks payable to motoman393 :) )

Hope this helps!



I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!

Friendswood, TX

[This message has been edited by motoman393 (edited 01-27-2001).]

Thanks. That helps a lot. I'm guessing the manual will explain all this stuff if I it ever comes in. Thanks again.................


God Bless

daverehm, maybe I'm not reading your posts correctly or I'm missing something but I have a few items of info for you concerning your oil changes. I apologize if I state the obvious. The filler tube is on the frame just forward of the gas tank. This is also where the dipstick is. You must run the bike for a few minutes, shut it off and then check the level. If the bike has been sitting for very long it will read dry!

Capacities are as follows:

Total amount: 1.80 US qt.

Periodic oil change: 1.59 US qt.

With oil filter replacement: 1.69 US qt.

Your filter can be back-flushed and re-used about 3 times, but always check it for tears,

etc. Recommended oils are petroleum based or synthetic Non-Friction modified. Viscosities depend on temp of course. Any quality four stroke oil is good. Many say, (including me), that a quality synthetic will actually help the clutch function better. Bel-Ray EXS (expensive) and Mobil 1 (yes the car oil) are good examples. Most other things to consider have already been stated in the previous posts.

motoman, don't want to seem like I'm stepping on your toes here. was typing while you were I guess. Good advice though.

Daverehm, Hope I contributed something useful here. Good luck with the bike and hope you get your manual soon!


I also do not want to step on toes but I did try Mobil 1 and had nothing but troubles.

The clutch was so choppy even after warmed up that it was unbearible to ride.

I actually went to the dealer to order a new clutch and they asked me which oil iwas using.

I told them M1 and they laughed.

They have said that others with various bikes have done nothing but complain about M1.

I bought 2quarts of Yma lube and ran it for about 20-30miles changed it and did it again.

After the second and using the third oil change I got my clutch back.

No more chatter or chop.

I will never use anything but yamalube again.

The dealer saved me over $100 with a $5 oil change!

Not quite sure what caused it because I would think that most oils are pretty close to the same but I guess not!



ride BLUE

G4, I'm guessing you're talking about my toes. My toes feel fine though. I don't use M1 either. I only mentioned it because there are many in this forum that swear by it. Their claims are similar to yours in that M1 cleaned up the notchiness in their bikes clutch like Yamalube did in yours. Who's right? I'm guessing you all are. I think that how a bike performs is at least in part subjective. It depends on what you're used to, what you expect from it etc. I don't believe anyone in here would recommend any mod or maint method that would be adverse. That's one thing I like about this forum, though. You get to hear both pros and cons (usually) of everything that's brought up here.


I did not mean it in a bad way i was just giving my personal experience withM1.

hope you dont think i am aiming directly at you cuz' thats surely not how it was meant.

Only to let everyone know my bad experience with M1 and that the dealer had seen the same thing many times b4.

Its kinda like the Ford/chevy thing I guess

whatever you have good luck with ......use it!

But I have had no problems with Yamalube and many with M1.




ride BLUE

G4, No offense was taken. If you read my previous reply, that's kind of what I said.

Ok boys, behave! :)



For tuning tips on your suspension, go to and look in the tuning section. It has a bunch of info on how to set up your suspension. If that doesn't work, you may want to consider having them do the work. They were rated #1 by motocross action mag.



86TT225, 99WR, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank and IMS seat. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA.

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