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Oil spraying through baffle, thought it was the threadlock fix


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800 miles on my 2008 DR-Z400SM. rode to school today (a 50 minute highway ride). When I got off I noticed oil everywhere and was floored to find the dipstick dry. I am hoping my synthetic oil voodoo kept perm damage at bay, and that it is low and not dry.

I was going to do the fix last year but forgot. I am sitting at my school now in the middle of one of the worst parts of chicago waiting for the flatbed tow to the nearest suzuki shop whilest my nearly brand new bike sits out front empty of its life blood.

So you are "waiting to get around to it" or "my bike is brand new, I have a little while to do it still" or...."...."... ..

Just do it, do it now...F'ing Suzuki..

Has anyone tried to contabulate a count of how many times this has happened? I can't wait to hear "oh, its not a problem, just happens now and then" from the tech..

Is the leak usually slow? Will I be able to buy a few extra quarts and ride home (and refill?) or does it gush out? I just want to get back to my shop so I can do the fix without costing an arm and a leg.

Edited by mattbesquare
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800 miles on my 2008 DR-Z400SM. rode to school today (a 50 minute highway ride). When I got off I noticed oil everywhere and was floored to find the dipstick dry. I am hoping my synthetic oil voodoo kept perm damage at bay, and that it is low and not dry.

I was going to do the fix last year but forgot. I am sitting at my school now in the middle of one of the worst parts of chicago waiting for the flatbed tow to the nearest suzuki shop whilest my nearly brand new bike sits out front empty of its life blood.

So you are "waiting to get around to it" or "my bike is brand new, I have a little while to do it still" or...."...."... ..

Just do it, do it now...F'ing Suzuki..

Has anyone tried to contabulate a count of how many times this has happened? I can't wait to hear "oh, its not a problem, just happens now and then" from the tech..

Is the leak usually slow? Will I be able to buy a few extra quarts and ride home (and refill?) or does it gush out? I just want to get back to my shop so I can do the fix without costing an arm and a leg.

yeah that suck pretty hard...😏 i my self have dont some but not all fix's..14,000 miles later and not one problem. ut this last time around it would seemed i was 196ML's low of oil on this last change. good luck

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Correctly me if I'm wrong, but I'm not sure that the thread lock fixes are related to what has happened to your bike so wouldn't have prevented it.

It could be that your CS seal has failed, it could be some road debris has damaged one of your main oil feed pipes. At this point, and with so little information, it could be many things.

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Oil is pooled all over the rear swingarm, rear tire. I checked hoses and they were dry, even the oil breatherline seemed dry inside. Looking up previous posts showed a common consensios of the oil is coming out of the front sprocket...looking at its puddling behavior and geometries of that part of the bike it seems like best case scenerio. Oil was full yesterday..rock guard is intact. The only other guess I would have would be a failed oil filter causing excessive back presssure....

EDIT: I was wrong, found oil sprayed over right hand side(facing forward) of the carb, which is like 2 inches from my baffle line that should have been connected to the airbox-but wasn't (someone said somewhere there was no reason for it-stupid me)

It seems the oil is coming from the baffle and the giant hole that was supposed to vent "air" back through the engine. I am stuck wondering if the added air resistance of this hose would have increased the likelihood of the oil vapor condensing and running back down into the crankcase.

Maybe that baffle has more to do besides emissions...

Edited by mattbesquare
I am correcting my initial emotional observation
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Has anyone tried to contabulate a count of how many times this has happened? I can't wait to hear "oh, its not a problem, just happens now and then" from the tech..

Must be one of those crap shoot kind of things. My beater 2000 model never has had any loctite fixes done prior to me taking ownership last year.

Sorry to hear it happened to you though.

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Mattbe - you have not identified the source of your leak. Assuming it is the countershaft nut that has come loose (or off), NO, YOU CAN NOT RIDE IT. Oil is pumped under pressure to that location.

Yes, Loctite the countershaft nut and sprocket is part of the series of Loctite fixes. Very simple to do. It should be the first in line.

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Can you get by with not replacing the side cover gasket when doing the primary nut, countershaft nut? i just did the other fixes on the left side, and was thinking about doing the others, but i dont have a new gasket..

Also what are side cover bolts torqued to?

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A new gasket is needed for the primary case. You might get lucky but don't count on it. Bolt torque is snug. 50 to 60 inch pounds if you are annal and have a good inch pound torque wrench. No gasket for the countershaft nut but you might want to have a spare lock washer. 80 ft pound torque for the countershaft nut.

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A new gasket is needed for the primary case. You might get lucky but don't count on it. Bolt torque is snug. 50 to 60 inch pounds if you are annal and have a good inch pound torque wrench. No gasket for the countershaft nut but you might want to have a spare lock washer. 80 ft pound torque for the countershaft nut.

perfect. thank you.

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My beater 2000 model never has had any loctite fixes done prior to me taking ownership last year.

My non-beater 2000 had some of the locktite fixes from new:ride:. All the stator bolts were already done at least. I can't remember if the start clutch ones were though, oh and the primary nut was not as tight as it should have been but was not loose.

Also I can't imagine that even if the CS nut came loose it would allow the seal to start spouting oil. I think if the CS is the cause of the leak the problem lie elsewhere.

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The nut does not come loose because of the nut backing off. There is enough torque on the sprocket to rock it back and forth on the splines which wears the spacer enough to loosen everything up. The locktite fills the spaces and prevents the sprocket moving on the splines.

I also have a 2008 model. Finally finished all the fixes recently at 16,000 km. Starter clutch bolts were mostly hard to remove but some were easier than others. Stator bolts did not have locktite and were barely screwdriver tight. I was lucky there. Primary and balance shafts seemed tight. I will probably kick myself later as I used 'high temp' locktite since it was in the toolbox. I will have to get stuff around those bolts pretty warm to remove them, but I do have a good impact.

I did save the gasket on the right side by being gentle and using a razor blade to separate it from the case in the short section it chose the case to stick to rather than the cover.

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