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Stock Forks -- What can be done with them?


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I have seen some post by some of the suspensions guys like John Curea that say the stock DRZ forks are very good.

I have a 2000 DRZ400S and was wondering if these ones are as good as the latter 02 and on versions. From what I see in the service manuals they are different, but I am not sure how.

What can I do to these to make these more responsive for trail riding?

Thanks

Greebe

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many people replace the early S model forks w E forks, you should be able to pick up some good condition E forks for about ~175 shipped

the E forks are the catridge style noble refers too, 03 and newer S forks are the same as the E forks

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I have seen some post by some of the suspensions guys like John Curea that say the stock DRZ forks are very good.

I have a 2000 DRZ400S and was wondering if these ones are as good as the latter 02 and on versions. From what I see in the service manuals they are different, but I am not sure how.

What can I do to these to make these more responsive for trail riding?

Thanks

Greebe

I would look at swapping them out for E forks or later model S forks like previously mentioned. Then send them up to Eddie and let him work them over.

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I looked on ebay for used forks and it looks like the cheapest thing out there is $300-$400. Plus if I then sent those off, wouldn't that cost another $300 or more to have them reworked? So I would have well over $600-$700 in used forks.

Shouldn't I be able to buy new ones for that much?

Is there anything that I can do to these in the mean time?

Also forgive my lack of knowledge here, but what is the difference between a cartridge fork and the ones on my bike?

Thanks

Greebe

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Shouldn't I be able to buy new ones for that much?

the left one is over $1500 msrp and right over $1300 new. so no,you cant.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/7814/Model/DR_Z400E/GroupID/371330/Group/FRONT_FORK_DAMPER_

yes,there things you can do to the forks you have but i wouldnt spend a dime on them. get the newer forks and ride with them first.if you atill arent happy,springs and valving are next.

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Has anyone heard about using the Race Tech Fork Cartridge Emulators? Apparently they turn your dampening rod forks into cartridge type of forks?

http://www.motospecialties.com/store.asp?store=svraceshop&level=type1&type=suspension&type1=Forks

Can my forks be rebuilt with the later DRZ Components to turn them into a cartridge fork?

Thanks

Greebe

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Thanks for the responses.

I would love a new pair of forks. If I could find a pair for a decent price I will jump on them. I just didn't know if for $130 for the emulators that would be a stop gap until I can afford some E forks with tuning. It sounds like though until I can find a pair of later DRZ forks I should not spend any money.

Would the later DRZ forks be fine to use in stock form, or would they need the work right off the bat to make them any better than the ones I currently have?

What is a fair price for a pair of the later DRZ forks in good condition?

Thanks again for the help.

Greebe

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I looked on ebay for used forks and it looks like the cheapest thing out there is $300-$400. Plus if I then sent those off, wouldn't that cost another $300 or more to have them reworked? So I would have well over $600-$700 in used forks.

Shouldn't I be able to buy new ones for that much?

Is there anything that I can do to these in the mean time?

Also forgive my lack of knowledge here, but what is the difference between a cartridge fork and the ones on my bike?

Thanks

Greebe

Ton of good info here about the cartridge and damping-rod style forks. You have the damping-rod style forks on your bike.

http://www.racetech.com/articles/CartridgeForks.htm

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Ok thanks again for the info. So I will start looking for the cartridge forks.

Until then any suggestions on set up that would be best for a 170 rider for trail use? Seems like the way it is set up now, it is soft when compressing it slowly and really stiff when hitting something fast. Does this mean increase preload to 4 or 5, and back out the comp more closer to 10-12 clicks?

The Preload is still set at the factory setting of 3. I think that the compression dampening setting is 7 clicks out? I have not messed with it and I believe 7 is how it comes from the factory.

Thanks

Greebe

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Thanks. Are all E forks cartridge forks? I see a few in the classified section that are 2000 E. Is there a way to make sure that they are cartridge forks by anything on them like the vent screw at the top of the fork tube?

thanks

Greebe

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  • 1 month later...

Alright I got a new to me set of E cartridge forks. Seems to be in pretty good condition. The oil needs to be changed as it looks like caramel syrup. What would be appropriate oil for them? The manual looks like it calls for a 5 wt. with a 122mm height, but that is all it says.

I might have to order something because there is not much happening as far as motorcycle parts in may area.

I have heard that you can use ATF. Is this true? Seems strange, but I have read that a lot of the pros use it as their "secret fork oil". I have no idea if that is true though, never heard that from a pro. ATF would be a heck of a lot easier for me to get where I live though, so that would allow me to get these things ready to install.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Greebe

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I thought I read on TT that the 1996-98 RM 125/250 forks were the same as the E model forks? no?

Would something like These or these be a candidate if so? Obviously needs setup for rider weight and seals but just wondering if OP can look at RM forks - I see them for less money on ebay all the time

:bonk: I was wrong :foul:

Sorry for the confusion....sigh....there goes my one mistake this year and its only August :-D

Edited by ROMAD
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