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Stator bolts, clutch bolts tight?


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Ok, so I finally broke in to the left case cover to do the Loc tite mod and lo and behold, the bolts were all still tight as ever... (6900miles)... so rather than disturb the delicate balance here I decided to tighten each bolt to see if it was really tight... only one even budged. So I closed up the case and thought I'd get opinions here...

Go in again (easy job) or leave well enough alone...

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That particular bolt wasn't loose it actually "broke" when pressure was applied. Which now has me thinking I'll break back into it because I "broke" the bolt "loose". I was expecting to see ya' know, loose bolts...

Some motors must have passed the muster... luck of the draw... the day the employee of the month was working on that particular motor... the frequency pattern of motor vibration... who knows. Good to check though.

Job was a lot easier than I thought.

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I just did my stator, flywheel and p nut w loc-tite about 8500 miles, all three were snug, none were tight, none were loose. I think if I hadnt loc tited them it was only the mater of time... as I said they were all snug none were tight

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Did you all use a torque screwdriver? I have no idea how necessary exacty lb's is when it comes to the loctite fix?

Anyone replace the screws that hold the cover in place with bolts?

Screws on the starter torque limiter cover? Yes changed to socket head bolts. I think the factory uses the screws as the heads are less likely to chew your leg? Torque screwdriver??? Impact driver? I was able to remove them with a regular #3 phillips screwdriver.

The correct torques are listed in the FAQ. I changed to grade 12.9 bolts and used the correct torque on my 1/4 drive torque wrench. (I duck to avoid the 'what are the chances it is well calibrated' questions which are probably valid) If no torque wrench they should be tightened 'pretty darn tight' with a 1/4 drive ratchet.

For the stator bolts tight enough so the 5mm allen key gets some flex in it, or use a torque wrench.

For the cover bolts use a 1/4 drive ratchet (regular length handle) and do them snug. One person said 'finger tight plus a quarter turn'.

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I just did my stator, flywheel and p nut w loc-tite about 8500 miles, all three were snug, none were tight, none were loose. I think if I hadnt loc tited them it was only the mater of time... as I said they were all snug none were tight

Same as mine were. 3 stator bolts were not very tight.

To OP, if they should be torqued to 70 inch pounds and they are at 50 inch pounds then they WERE LOOSE. Loose does not have to be 'can turn with fingers'. For any given size and grade of bolt there is a certain torque where the fastener starts to stretch and acts as a spring pulling pieces together. Too tight and the fastener can go past its yield point. Too loose and it can vibrate out.

Why take a chance and not locktite once you are in there?

Especially on the starter clutch the purpose of the locktite is that under some conditions the clutch could get twisted hard enough to rock it on the flywheel, which could rock the bolts a tiny bit and cause them to loosen unless they are locktited in. It is not a matter of them vibrating loose as on the stator. This is also why the permanent strength locktite on the starter clutch, primary nut, balance shaft nut, and counter shaft sprocket as they could get rocked on the shaft a bit otherwise, and medium strength on the stator as simple vibration is the concern.

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Slowriding has you covered here.

I'll just add;

Don't be concerned when you see folks use the word "permanent" in reference to thread lock.. as it's not. Even stud and bearing mount is not permanent, it just has to be heated before removal.

High strength anaerobic thread lock (Locktite 271 or similar) is recommended for starter clutch/flywheel, CS, primary and balancer nuts, Medium strength for the three stator screws.

The three starter TQ limiter cover can use the OEM screws, or a button head socket cap screw, or what ever you want.. lower profile the better as your leg will rub against it.

Recommend removing, cleaning, replacing all of those fasteners with thread loc as good preventative measure.

Same as mine were. 3 stator bolts were not very tight.

To OP, if they should be torqued to 70 inch pounds and they are at 50 inch pounds then they WERE LOOSE. Loose does not have to be 'can turn with fingers'. For any given size and grade of bolt there is a certain torque where the fastener starts to stretch and acts as a spring pulling pieces together. Too tight and the fastener can go past its yield point. Too loose and it can vibrate out.

Why take a chance and not Locktite once you are in there?

Especially on the starter clutch the purpose of the Locktite is that under some conditions the clutch could get twisted hard enough to rock it on the flywheel, which could rock the bolts a tiny bit and cause them to loosen unless they are Locktite in. It is not a matter of them vibrating loose as on the stator. This is also why the permanent strength Locktite on the starter clutch, primary nut, balance shaft nut, and counter shaft sprocket as they could get rocked on the shaft a bit otherwise, and medium strength on the stator as simple vibration is the concern.

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I just did this last night and I'm going to do it again soon because I didn't have any brake cleaner. I could have left it open or ran to the store but I don't mind spending an evening in the garage drinking some beer.

I just did the stator bolts (3 holding down stator and 3 holding down wires) and the 6 holding the rotor on the flywheel. Basically all of the bolts in the FAQ writeup with arrows pointing at them.

Should I have taken the bolt out in the middle of the rotor/flywheel and done something with that? The bolt in the middle here?

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