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NEW Z-Start clutch I love it but.......


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Can anyone tell me how to stop this thing from stalling. Also it feels like I have rocks in the tranny when trying to get it into neutral (EXTREMELY hard to find neutral is my clutch NOT disengaging all the way)) ????. I have approx 45-60 minutes on the clutch. I want it to pull the lower rpms (quick engagement) but I can't lay the bike over and NOT stall it. I purchased this set up to help me in the cross country races I race here in TX. Guys have pity on me and share your secrets. I have the new updated one with 5 .010 shims on each post and 36 balls.

heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllllllllllpppppp

🙂:D :D :D :D

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Clutch drag usually means not enough mounting height. Better give Al a call. 0.050 sounds like a lot of shim but I haven't seen the latest version. Does adjusting for higher stall help?

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When I first installed mine I used the light spring it took three or four try's (I'm talking about the VERY first time I started the bike up after the install) to get the bike to not stall when I put it in gear. Zero stalls after that, but the clutch wasn't disengaging all the way - neutral was very hard to find. and . I put the stronger spring on and cranked it to max tension. After a few hours I eased off the spring tension. This has helped a lot for me. I can lock my back wheel up and it never stalls. I've fallen five or six times on the track and my bike has stayed running each time and I just get up and hit the gas and go. Stay with it, it's a great product .

I'm using four shims and 850 cc of Delo (sp?) oil that Al recommends, the oil also seemed to help.

Did you put that thrust washer back in from the back of the original pressure plate?

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Ian,

It shouldn't be that hard to find neutral and you shouldn't be stalling after that much time on the clutch. Either your stall speed is too low, the installed gap is too tight or you don't have the same number of shims on each stand-off.

Your stall speed should be at least a couple hundred RPM above idle. If your bike wants to creep forward a bit at idle or your bike moves forward with the slightest twist of the throttle, add more spring tension to your external adjuster to raise the stall speed.

Does the clutch jerk a little as you take off slowly? If so, you probably have an uneven number of shims on the center clutch stand-offs.

Otherwise, measure your installed gap. You need two sets of feeler gauges. Take off the clutch cover. Take a thick feeler gauge and run it around the clutch between the top plate and pressure plate to make sure all the balls are seated at the bottom of their ramps (they can get stuck near the bottom before the z-Start fully breaks-in). Start with .035" of feeler gauge. Slide one of the feeler gauges between the top most steel driven disk and the top most friction disk (not the z-Start friction disk, the rivet will interfere with the measurement). Then slide in the other feeler gauge directly across from the first (180 degrees) so the first feeler gauge doesn't just rock the pressure plate sideways. Find the set of feeler gauges that slides with some resistance. You are looking for between .035" and .045".

If you're less than .035", you'll need another shim (6 total). This goes outside my installation chart but I have seen it happen a couple of times.

Underfilling your tranny oil will also cause a problem. Just adding 590cc is not enough. The manual is a little confusing. You're supposed to add 590cc, warm up the engine, allow it to cool for 3 minutes and then add oil until it comes out the overflow. Or you can just add a quart of oil and be done with it, you'll also get better clutch cooling.

Oil type can also play a role but generally only to help in finding neutral. A good 10W-40 works better than some of the 2-stroke tranny oils out there. I like Chevron DELO 400.

Let me know how it goes.

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