Clutch Dragging pblms w/Hinson

I just picked up a used '00 426 from a friend that needed some cash. Of course this bike

has been ridden hard and put away wet a few times so it needs some TLC so I got it for a good price :) but I have this nagging clutch pblm.

It has a new Hinson basket with a new stock

pressure plate and what looks like new fibres. When I 1st picked it up the clutch

would drag so much that you just about couldn't start it in gear and it was difficult to shift(forget about finding neutral). I replaced the steels, opened up the grooves in the push rod (to let more oil

flow to the clutch) and it seems that it had no affect.Though I was just starting it in the garage,running it for maybe 2 minutes and placing it in gear to see if it would crawl forward and of course it did or just stall.

Maybe I didn't let it warm up long enough but I swear that with my 99 and 98 400's I could do this w/o having the bike crawl.

Could this be the fibers, maybe warped or something?

Any ideas?


Check for any grooves in the inner hub or basket. Next check for any mods to the clutch actuation. Mods done to make the pull eaiser also decrease the amount of throw the clutch has. If that appears ok, check to see if the clutch is oversized.. meaning the same number of fiber and steel plates are being used and they are the proper thickness.

Just my 2 cents worth but there may not be anything to worry about. I also have a '00 426. I installed a Hinson outer basket after break-in. I have around a dozen rides on the Hinson now. When the bike is cold, the clutch is still grabby. Even if bike idles long enough to make the pipe glow, it is still grabby. However after a warm-up lap or two, the grabbiness is gone. When you first start the bike and let it warm up, you are warming up the top end. The oil doesn't really warm up until you work the gear box. The '00s have a very narrow oil passage-way that feeds the clutch. So narrow, that the oil must be warm to flow properly. I have read posts in this forum describing possible fixes for this anomaly, but I have learned to live with it; it only happens once at the outset of a day of riding.

Great, I'll hopefully try to get off of work

todya to make a few laps on the bike to see

if it goes away. I have also opened up the grooves in the push rod to let more oil flow so I hope that this will have an impact when it is warm.

Anyone know what the correct jetting is for a DSP pipe and header for this beast?

Maybe ScottF knows?


This may be a stupid question, but did you adjust the slack in the cable?

And my bike always stalls the first time into gear after the bike has been sitting for more than a few days. I usually put it into gear while on the stand so I don't have to re-start it. I'm sure a quick bump-push while in gear before starting would do the same thing.

BTW- If I recall correctly, the bike has a neutral safefy switch so it can only be kicked started out of gear, (someone correct me if I'm wrong on that).


Dave, the bike will start in any gear, I can't remember what I was told it was used for, but I think it was info. used for ignition or timing. mike

If you've tried all of the above and checked the simple things then you may want to check the fiber plates for thickness and/or warping. I wonder if your friend may have used some type of oil which caused the plates to swell. This probably isn't the problem, but if you run out of ideas it will give you one more thing to check. :)

HEY!! I think I might have fixed the pblm!!

I hope this info is helpful:

When I got the bike it needed some TLC.

It had a brand new Hinson basket,new inner hub (stock) and pressure plate.

THe clutch would drag so much that you could not start it in gear warm or cold.

I replaced the steels with new YZ parts and I

filed the grooves wider on the push rod (noth ends). This had some affect but still you could not start it in gear and finding neutral was impossible with the engine running.I also lengthened the rod by placing a 1/2 mm washer in the cup that the rod

goes into to increase the throw of the lever that actuates the rod.This also had little


I tried Mobil 1 which had not affect. I had been using Yamaha 4 (the guy gave me a case of it so I thought what the heck).

Last night I spent 3 hrs at the track seeing

if warming it up and doing laps would help

and it did get a little better but you would

stall it in turnes with the clutch in while

locking up the rear brakes.

I took my 250F's clutch lever and cable with me (I'm using a Magura on it now) to give it a try as a last resort. I thought of using a

different lever setup since the bike had a

works connection clutch/compression release


I slapped it on and adjusted the free play

and PRESTO!! It works!! It seems to me that there was not enough "throw" of the lever

to release the clutch. Or, maybe the clutch

just wore in, I doubt it. I do beleive that the clutch does not get enough oil due to the fact that when I initally took the clutch apart it was dry.

Just my my 2c !!


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