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TC/TE 610/410 CH factory racing vented ignition cover


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Thanks George,

I am thinking that flywheel windage is what motivates the airflow, i wonder if the factory bikes put some sort of low profile outer fins onto the flywheel as well?? (does not matter because I am not doing that even if they did).

PS she is 99.9% ready to go, I still need to verify the cam chain stretch (within limits) and also do the valve adjustment verification. Then I can get the carb setting dialed in.

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I was going to say call George... he made a few up out of his shop.

And Robert, if you want that bike to run like a factory bike... then put George's pipe on it.

justSayen

I did install the UpTite pipe after all,,,,but I choked it down with S/A dB reducer end to keep it quiet. Just need to get the carb dialed in now. I stuck with OEM jetting because of the end cap, need to get the idle mix dialed in per Georges instructions.

right now I click down the enrichment lever, comp release and kick er through a few times and get up on tdc then a little past with comp release and she starts up easily. But once she warms a little bit she is a no starter and if left idling she will start to sputter an conk out. I think she is rich at idle and needs a good screwing!!! to get the mix right at idle. But like I said get the mech setting right first (cam chain check and Valve verication) fotos to follow.

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Anyone know where and how the 90s early 00s era factory race bikes with the 2 hose vented ignition covers, ran their hoses? Airbox? hose end filters?

Thanks for asking this. I have one I need to install on my SM and also wondered how the hoses were routed. If I remember right, Ron Lawson raced a 610 in a DB article in '99 or '00 with one, but no good pics.

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I did install the UpTite pipe after all,,,,but I choked it down with S/A dB reducer end to keep it quiet. Just need to get the carb dialed in now. I stuck with OEM jetting because of the end cap, need to get the idle mix dialed in per Georges instructions.

right now I click down the enrichment lever, comp release and kick er through a few times and get up on tdc then a little past with comp release and she starts up easily. But once she warms a little bit she is a no starter and if left idling she will start to sputter an conk out. I think she is rich at idle and needs a good screwing!!! to get the mix right at idle. But like I said get the mech setting right first (cam chain check and Valve verication) fotos to follow.

I find my 610 to be very sensitive to air screw position, sometimes necesitating a change during the day if the weather changes. 1/4-1/2 turn is all it takes to change it from a hard starting s.o.b. to a single kick. Also, I never let it stall during that lukewarm stage right after initial start-up and being fully warmed up. Starts easy cold or hot otherwise.

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