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DJ Kit vs tm40?/GSXR Pipe + Airbox Mod Project - ?s and pics


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Well at this point here is where I'm at:

I have an 01 GSXR 1000 pipe, I am waiting a week to earn $$ to buy the midpipe from Jesse, and I have a twin air filter ready to be put on.

I will be putting the pipe doing the airbox mod and doing one of these things listed below with the carb. I am fairly mechanically sound and have a few younger buddies with similar experience as well as a few Harley buffs to steer me in the right direction for some complicated installs but I want a bike that will start up and go every day, it must be a reliable commuter as well as a toy.

This is where the questions come. I have searched the forums and thank you to the entire community for all your detailed answers on all the forums I have scoured. :ride:

1st off I realize the pick-up on a pumper carb will always be better, there is no getting around to making that without one, but what is the real life commuter and dirt ride difference of the TM 40 vs the Dynojet kit both in actual power feel both fast and slow roll on throttle, and maybe some HP#'s as well as MPG. I'm around 6'1" and pushing tward 300 with a riding jacket, so this will make a difference. I am essentially justifying cost. Either way the GSXR pipe, air box mod, and flange mod will be done.

2. I see that procycle sells the Mikuni TM40 for 449.95 with all the bells and whistles including extra jets for fine tuning, while Jesse's at 375.00 is listed as "Pre-Jetted and ready to install", with the throttle cable and the claps appearing to come with it. Would the other jets be needed, as I have read they were jetted a little rich in cases from Jesse, and are both a straight bolt on no fabrication needed piece?

3. Is there more constant messing around with a DJ kit vs a tm 40 or are they both an honest "set and forget"

Ill be posting full advice and such that comes to me on here with a detailed step by step as I do it for those that are interested, and those that wish to follow after to fix the athsma on this solid bike. I am hoping to become more of a contribution then a bag of questions as time moves forward :cheers:.

PS after I actually have some money beyond what I'll spend on this, I'd like to fix the problem. Don't want the thread junked with seat stuff but a PM with seat suggestions for a stock tank would be appreciated (especially w/ a pic). Ive seen corbin fits with the IMS tank but no mention with the stocker.. Thanks to all the help :-)

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I'd love to drone on about all my experiments but will not do the subject justice here. Bottom line is the first thing I suggest is shimming the fuel needle as detailed here many, many times. Pull the snorkle if you like and then adjust the fuel screw for best idle, again as described here. There are dozens of relatively recent posts on this. Not sure about pics but I have seen a few around the web. The above is very easy to do, if you take your time. Thanks to MXRob and others, I can have the tank off (makes it easier) and the needle accessed in ten minutes. He and others have detailed info. on the very straightforward process and it is easier than swapping the main jet.

Strongly suggest your read, read and read some more (previous posts on this forum). I did that very thing, got my head wrapped around the concept and hints regarding the process and why it works so well.

Needle shim is very effective for the ills you likely experience. I would never mess with jetting right off the bat. Do this simple mod first and test it for a few days. It sounds like it could give you just the result you want.

I do have a TM40 on one of my bikes. It is a nice carb overall but sometimes needs some extra tweaking to get it all just right after the install (I have posts regarding that too). I went with the ProCycle deal, it's all inclusive but I have done business with Jesse as well. They are both great.

If you've got 500 bucks to go with a turn key pumper set up from either vendor, by all means do so. Otherwise...shim that needle and ride it bro, before all the jetting jazz. I hear of too many jetting attempts gone wrong and then...one has to go back in and sort things out. Start small.

It's educational and fun to start small, feel the improvements then build up to the next thing...or maybe save up $$$ for that next thing.

JMO

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I definitely understand what your saying on this as it is a lot to do everything at once with so many changes, however with stock gearing the bike has to chug hard to maintain the 65+ MPH i need to maintain going down the highway that I will be regularly driving, and for my size she needs a bit more nut then a simple shim will do to pull a higher sprocket. I have done the same on other machines that simply needs a bit of pep, but rather then constantly making changes I plan on taking a weekend/set of days and doing everything it needs at once.

As far as reading goes ... ugh there is a TOOOONNNNN of info on this site as well as many others, and I've throughly read each and every post I can get my hands on and have a steadily growing folder of guides from Rob Jesse, and other sources. These last few questions are the ones I have not gotten a fully straight answer on. I sort of have the money, and the mods are going to to get done in the somewhat near future its just figuring out the last few things that will get me where I want to be.

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I am still using the BST with a DJ kit. As for actual hp, the TM-40 will not gain much if any hp over a BST. The difference is in throttle response. I ride my bike regularly in many different situations, and for me it is really hard to justify spending $500 for the TM-40. If I won the lottery, then maybe I would go for the TM-40. For my hard earned $, no thanks. There are several other worthy and probably more noticeable gains to be had in the suspension, brakes, etc.

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Although the throttle response is drastically improved going to a mechanically controlled slide A/P type carb like the FCR-MX or the TM40 it's not the best improvement that the DR650 gains from the deal. Lower engine speeds gain a huge boost in smoothness. Just try riding your DR in 5th gear in town. The engine bucks and kicks due to the vacuum slide jumping up and down... those who have drilled their slide suffer further with this issue. Trail riding is also improved greatly for the same reason... it is like gearing the machine down. We are talking about Thumpers right? The CV carb does not allow the DR650 to be all that it can be.... a Thumper.

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So,

You are saying that your mostly stock set up will not pull decently to and then easily maintain 65mph on the hwy? Are you loaded down with a ton of weight? No offense, we all eat too much, tell me about it.

I am pushing 210, wear all the gear and even with a few groceries on the rack, easily maintain 65 mph. There and above wind buffeting was pretty irritating but still, my BST set up was working fine. In fact it ran about the same at upper throttle openings as the pumper does now, because of the way i jetted it (conservative). I do not want a fully open airbox and all the extra noise it makes, especially with the side cover off...it's overkill for me. At the time I was running the BST, it would pull well past 65 up to indicated 90 plus where the wind was just a bit much.

I was sitting around 5K rpm in top gear, cruising just fine at 65 mph. Is there something else going on with your motor? You should not be "chugging"...the motor should be just below where it's making peak torque. Unless you've got some other gearing...? I'm running stock everything there, it's fine for what I do. The DR is not something I want to cruise at 70 plus with, thus no need to gear it up in my case. Of course a freeway run is doable, rather I always take secondary roads because that's where the DR is really fun.

Trauts, I agree. It's a fun thing to play with, lively throttle when set up right, but not a huge oveall power improver. Down low, as MxRob says...is where you feel it working. Skip it and tune the BST, save money for other things...all good.

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I have done all the mods listed in the first post including the tm40. For me the improved throttle responce was worth it. I got it set up from Jesse. The bike runs great and I am getting around 45 to50 mpg.

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Did the setup from jessie include additional jets, or any adapters? I remember seeing that one of the potential differences for the price in jesse vs procycle was the lack of an adaptor, which may cause long term for the rubber boot to rip causing a vacuum leak. (truth of this statement hasn't seems to rear its head) but I want all the facts before dishing out the $$$$$

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Go with the TM40, air box mod and the pipe if you want performance out of the pig. $500 bucks with cables and all the jets you'll ever need from Jeff at Pro Cycle or Jessie at Kientech is well worth it. After that you'll like riding the pig so much you'll next be shopping for a Corbin or other similar seat......

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Hey guys. Just a question for those that have TM's. I have the GSXR, airbox mod, DJ kit, and the bike runs AWESOME.

My question is that I have ridden my friends WR450 and find that his mech carb makes the bike either on throttle or off throttle, it is hard to "cruise" with it. I fear that a switch to the mech TM would be the same thing for the DR.

At a cruise, like coming into a stop then accelerating away, is the TM smooth or does it buck cause it is either open of not? The BS surges but I can deal with it better then the manners of the WR, of course keeping in mind that the WR is a race machine. I commute with my DR 180 km's a day and good road manners are important to me.

Thanks again for all the help.

Jim

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As soon as I can get paid again,after I get my DR650 tagged,and on the road all the way,Im going to get the Pipe,and TM-40,I dont care if it dont gain a bunch more power,theres nothing wrong with the DR650s power as is,to me,Im looking for reliability,

The pumper carb does give better rideability,and thats where Im looking,add a pipe,and good air filter,and open the airbox as described,and We should be good to go for a while.

Peace!

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Alright nice to see all the responses!!! So now its deciding how much that smooth low end means to me I guess... any notable difference in MPG one way or the other?

I've noticed less than stock but not much. Also consider that my TM has bigger jets since I did the pipe and airbox at the same time. Plus i tend to twist harder with the TM. The difference is negligable if you're easy on the throttle.

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