Raptor perch and lever

Has anybody tried the "Raptor Easy-Thumb Adjustable Perch and Levers"? Hick, I think i remember you said that you used a raptor lever and perch, and I was wondering if it was the Raptor Easy-Thumb Adjustable, or just the standard? I was just at the MSR site and I figured I'd ask to get a couple different views before I buy. Does anybody think its worth the few extra bucks?

Thanks,

Mike

Raptor standard, they didn’t have the thumb adjust when I bought it, and IMO that is a moto-specific accessory, I don’t use my clutch enough to warrant one.

I definitely think it is worth it. One of the things I DO use the clutch for is to prevent stalling in really tight sections of a race, and any help I can get after a few hours of racing is welcome. I think I mentioned before that I swapped bikes with a ’98 YZ400 once and the other guy thought my clutch was broken initially because the pull was so much easier than his stocker.

BUT, the way the Raptor works creates shorter cable life for two reasons. The stock cable is almost too long for the Raptor when new, so there is less room for stretching, and the mounting position that creates the extra leverage also leaves the cable at such an angle that it rubs on the adjuster tube a little and frays. I have had this lever on three bikes and haven’t broken a cable. I replaced my original on my YZF after about 60 hours with the lever, the fraying wasn’t bad enough to worry me but the cable had stretched to the point that I didn’t have many threads left on the adjuster.

Finally the Raptor, due to its (very comfy) rubber insert on the lever, is probably more prone to breakage in a fall. I did break one on my KX before I put bark busters on it. The new lever I bought to replace it is now on my (Pro-Bend equipped) YZF, one year later.

I also think that if you abuse your clutch (or race motocross) the decreased throw created by the better leverage may mean reduced clutch effectiveness once the plates get hot. I guess that is what the Easy-Thumb version is for…

In conclusion it makes a very large difference with a few (IMO) minor drawbacks.

I just wanted to add that you can install the cable in the “standard” position as well and cure the cable fraying and length problem, of course you just erased the leverage advantage also. But if the “easy” mounting position leaves too little throw to complete a moto you can easily change it on race day then change it back for longer trail rides.

I also run the Raptor lever but mine is not the easythumb either. I do highly recommend the lever it does make the terrible stock pull much easier and yes I would buy the newer easythumb model cuz if you get the clutch hot you will lose disengagement with the Raptor. You have to run it with almost zero freeplay.

Hey Hick, I use the raptor as well and agree it seems to wear out the stock cable pretty quickly. Have you found a cable that works better than stock. I'm in need of a new cable...

Oh, one other thing, I was just reading about someone having problems finding neutral using a Hinson clutch and started thinking. I started having problems finding neutral when I put the Raptor on. Has anyone had similar problems.

------------------

JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender

[This message has been edited by JJ (edited 01-31-2001).]

I didn’t give the stock lever much of a chance so I have little basis for comparison but, if my clutch is adjusted properly (with some play, but not too much), I can (almost) always get neutral. I also have a Hinson basket but never had problems finding neutral with the stocker.

I’ve never had to adjust it during a ride and I’m getting an acceptable life span out of the stock cable but I don’t use the clutch very often.

To solve for an overly long cable you may be able to “cheat” a little on the lower adjustment (down on the motor) by leaving the interior adjusting nut off or unthreaded, modifying (shortening from the inside) the hollow portion of the lower cable mount or maybe putting a spacer behind where it bolts to the case.

Just some thoughts, please don’t plug in the sawzall until you’ve really thought this through…

There may also be a shorter cable from a different model you could swap, a call to Terrycable wouldn’t hurt (sorry, don’t have their # handy).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now