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2010 WR250 weight


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It's fuel injected and street legal, looks like a winner but it's almost 300 lbs. I can buy a 2008 WR for about 1/2 price and 50lbs lighter. It would be great to have a dual sport but I want something nimble for Kennedy Meadows and the like.

Has anyone rode trails with this beast? How is the WR on the street? Thanks

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I replied to your first post in the WR/YZ-250F forum. ๐Ÿ˜

You're misunderstanding something:

There is no weight difference between 2008, 2009, or 2010 WR-250R dual-purpose bikes.

The 2008 model was listed with a DRY WEIGHT spec. (without any gas in the tank, oil in the engine, or coolant in the cooling system), and 2009 and 2010 models were listed with a WET WEIGHT (with gas in the tank, oil in the engine, and coolant in the cooling system) spec.

Put gas, oil, and coolant in all of them, and they all weight the same.

They're the same bikes with different decals.

The WR-250F is the bike that's 40 lbs. lighter, but you gotta' realize that this IS a different model.

The letter after the WR-250 is very important.

A WR-250F ain't street legal, but it kicks the shit outta' the WR-250R off-road.

On the street, the roles are reversed, where the WR-250R will smoothly cruise (cruise, not top speed, remember) at 75mph without trouble, while the short-geared WR-250F feels wound-out at 50mph.

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It's fuel injected and street legal, looks like a winner but it's almost 300 lbs. I can buy a 2008 WR for about 1/2 price and 50lbs lighter. It would be great to have a dual sport but I want something nimble for Kennedy Meadows and the like.

Has anyone rode trails with this beast? How is the WR on the street? Thanks

There is a WRR and a WRF. The later is a dirt bike; real suspension, pumper carb, full frame, etc. And 50lbs lighter.

The former is an underpowered street bike you can take in the dirt. But not very far. Very compromised suspension, and an extremely plugged up and lean motor. DB magazine says it takes $3k to make it dirtable, and that is just barely.

Find a used, plated WR400/426/450 and be happy.

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They aint far off, throw in a grand for suspension to start. Tires and chain/sprockets to get gearing & some durability, a set of bars/grips. A proper skidplate. I don't see the pipe/PC3 being necessary but for anything above a snails pace for 200 lbs rider you need everything above.

Go all the way with pipe/can/tuner/bb kit and its not going to compete with a Husky 250/310 or EXC but will cost just as much & weigh more.

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They aint far off, throw in a grand for suspension to start.

Depends on who does it. I paid considerably less than that.

Go all the way with pipe/can/tuner/bb kit and its not going to compete with a Husky 250/310 or EXC but will cost just as much & weigh more.

But what is not mentioned is the fact you'll save lots of money and time without all the rigorous maintenance required by the more high-strung bikes. That was a big selling point for me - I want to ride, not wrench. Yes, it will not "compete" with a Husky or KTM, but I didn't buy the bike for competition purposes. If you want a race bike buy a WR250F.

And the extra weight is down low in the bulletproof gearbox and hardly noticeable - the only complaints I ever hear about the WRR's weight are mostly from people who never actually rode one. I especially get a kick out of XR650L owners who tell me my bike is too heavy! ๐Ÿ˜

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OK, I've said it before & will say it again. If you ride it hard, like a "hard enduro" throw the Yamaha suggested maintenance book in the trash. It is fine if you are puttering along a gentle grassy path, or commuting around the college campus but when you are using the clutch as "He" intended on a small bore enduro, clicking gears with out it and flogging it thru sand, mud, stones and clogging the tiny, teeny, almost not even there air filter, you treat it like any other dirt bike.

Filter every ride, oil every 2nd or 3rd, check your valves twice a year as its the same dirt you are constantly cleaning off that munchkin of an air filter that eats them up.

If you start tossing $ at suspension, you are already going beyond what this friendly little puppy of a bike was engineered for. By the time you get it as far as it will go with mods, you blew past the price of a Husky TE250/310 but still have 30+ lbs to wrestle.

Its a great bike, within its parameters but going beyond that you may as well have spent the $ up front and gotten what you probably wanted in the first place.

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Its a great bike, within its parameters but going beyond that you may as well have spent the $ up front and gotten what you probably wanted in the first place.

I got exactly what I wanted in the WR250R. A bike that can go literally anywhere, including long freeway runs to where the best trails are which allows for lots more trail time. It's pretty much perfect for city life - at least mine...

Not everyone has to beat the hell out of their bike wherever they go. But if the OP is one of those people then this is definitely not the bike for him.

What I don't get is why so many people insist on trashing this bike considering most of the trash is dealt by those who have never actually ridden one. But you know what they say about opinions...

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I have one in the garage and speak from first hand experience. It does what it does & is what it is. OP sounds like he wants more dirt performance and IMO, this is not the best path for that. You definition applies to a KLR 650 or DR200 too. Depends on your expectations and needs.

Beating the hell out of it and riding it at a race pace are two different things. ๐Ÿ˜

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Honda dealer has a used wrr for $5300, only 6 miles on it. Went down and checked it out, very snappy. The previous owner traded it for a klx650 because he needed more for the street. Too bad he didn't figure that out 6 miles before ๐Ÿ˜

Where I am at: seriously comparing between the wrr and a used 2006 dzr400 for a fraction of the price.

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The DRZ may already have some/all of the mods but its easy to get it over 40 HP. Downside, it'll still be a 5 speed. Upside, countless sources of parts, mods and advice. Its already been all things at all levels, from GNCC contender to sumoto winner on national levels!

I raced one in MX when they first came out, kick only model with a FCR carb. Race Tech suspension mods and it held up and hung with everything I raced in 250/open class. Not real snappy so you rode it with momentum. Todays 450s would smoke it but it was/is capable to be raised to a higher level with simple stuff.

Read up in each specific model forum, and remember that bike owners tend to exaggerate their current bikes abilities! ๐Ÿ˜

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The DRZ is the best bike EVER!!!

see post above...

I think the DRZ has more potential than the WRR if you want more performance... if you want a "do everything" bike and are in no rush, then the WRR is pretty attractive

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I have almost 15000 miles on my WRR including commuting, trail rides, and I have raced it in several d-36 hare scambles and the virginia city grandprix twice. Only mods are sprockets, bars, and a skidplate. While I am a very green c-rider, this bike does everything i want it to. It can be heavy if you go down towards the end of a 3 hour race, but it has plenty of power for 150 lb. ass.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Love my R. It's a little porky, but it also ain't no trailer queen. It will go through some REALLY gnarly stuff all day/year long with little maintenance, and is actually a pleasure on the open road as well. Nice to be able to go anywhere, whether up a sick singletrack or to Alaska and back!:bonk:

A DRZ FEELS a lot heavier, even though it's maybe 20-30 pounds heavier. All about low, rotating mass in the case of the Yammie...

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