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WR250F still bogging after O-ring mod...


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2003 WR250F. The bike has always bogged. bad. I don't know if it was me or the previous owner but it sucks. It used to be tolerable but now it can hardly make it to 1/2 throttle. Past 1/2 throttle is fine and it opens up nice but the low end is seriously lacking.

I did the grey wire mod, I used to ride this thing every day I just got used to it but now that it's been sitting for a couple months I'm trying to fix it up for either my girlfriend to ride or to sell.

Here's what I did today:

took the carb off and did the o-ring mod, cleaned the pilot (?) jet and the one right next to it in the bowl they both looked perfect. Put the carb back on with my adjustable fuel screw 1 1/2 turns out like my mechanic said. Runs like ­čśĆ i can barely even move the thing it sputters and hesitates and bogs like crazy. I finally got it moving and when it got past the low end the top end felt really good going down my driveway, really powerful. Also my choke lever won't stay out now i dont know why.

How do i fix the low end? Also I should mention I have a white brothers slip on should i get different jets than the stock ones? ( i know they're stock) or is there another setup I should try. Anything helps, I'll do anything to have this bike running halfway decent again please help!

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update: i backed out the fuel screw probably 3 or 4 full turns and it runs better. disconnected the TPS and it seemed to have better throttle response. i took off the throttle plate thingy on the top of the carb and tightened the AP(?) timing screw 1/4 turn then connected the tps and ran it. runs much better there's a minor hesitation when i've got probably 1/4 throttle and i really crank on it it kind of lags. could this be the pilot jet?

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Be careful, you are tweaking things that you should not. The pilot jet and fuel screw are for IDLE ONLY.

Reset the fuel screw for a perfect idle.

What leak jet have you in the bike?

Top of the carb??? That is the slide cover. The only adjustment in there is to center the slide on the throttle shaft.

AP timing screw is where you put the oring.

Turn the AP timing screw 1/2 turn CCW, and test by riding. Do not mgo nutz and just start turning screws, you'll get your carb all out of whack. Work slow, with a professional attitude. Keep good notes.

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Be careful, you are tweaking things that you should not. The pilot jet and fuel screw are for IDLE ONLY.

Reset the fuel screw for a perfect idle.

What leak jet have you in the bike?

Top of the carb??? That is the slide cover. The only adjustment in there is to center the slide on the throttle shaft.

AP timing screw is where you put the oring.

Turn the AP timing screw 1/2 turn CCW, and test by riding. Do not mgo nutz and just start turning screws, you'll get your carb all out of whack. Work slow, with a professional attitude. Keep good notes.

this is good advice, it really helped me. do one thing at a time like he says or you won't know what caused the new problem you created.

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