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shim sizes


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When the Husky's run out of spec on the shim size you should get your valve seat area cut and have new valves put in. The valves are wearing themselves into the head thus causing less clearance. I had just done this and am glad I did now the bike's engine starts easy and runs like new again.

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You can simply sand down the one you have on a flat plate. Keep checking it as you go, doesn't take much to go too far.

Dude I can't believe you condone this practice after how constructively critical you are on other matters......you CAN sand it down.....but....(hack job backyard rube:bonk: ๐Ÿ˜) It's better to get the proper sized shim unless you are in a total bind. If you must sand it, sand the numbered side off so you don't confuse some future poor fool. It's very difficult to sand it evenly and the hardness isn't uniform all the way through a shim.

A valvetrain is a very precise design and should get precise parts put in it. Just my opinion, which is, of course, correct!๐Ÿ˜

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Sanding flat is hard? 4 some maybe.

So being less than thrilled about a redesigned bike brings the babies out in force, huh? Great.

Sand it, don't sand it. It works if you can manage the simple process or simply buy the one or full kit for the shelf. Check every shim you are about to use, regardless of where you got it, even out of a new box. My apologies to the OP who is now getting static on a very simple topic.

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Sanding flat is hard? 4 some maybe.

So being less than thrilled about a redesigned bike brings the babies out in force, huh? Great.

Sand it, don't sand it. It works if you can manage the simple process or simply buy the one or full kit for the shelf. Check every shim you are about to use, regardless of where you got it, even out of a new box. My apologies to the OP who is now getting static on a very simple topic.

Dude are you KIDDING ME??? I was kinda jaggin around with ya to have fun, and inform the OP that it isn't the best way. He isn't getting static and I doubt he feels any. Sorry to hurt your feelings jjm. You're awefully sensitive! Gotta re-evaluate the whole Baby comment in front of a mirror!

Christ can't we have any fun anymore???? I expected a bit of humor from ya but didn't think I'd tee you off...... I'm sorry, honestly.

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Oh, no worries. I smile non stop in this particular forum! ๐Ÿ˜

Best way? if the shop is closed on Saturday evening and you are racing in the morning, its the best way to go. Far better than running a tight valve, no? Having done it a few times when in need and knowing others do it all the time, whats wrong with it? Its a spacer, not gonna wear in there. Get it flat and its just fine. Either way, it can save a days riding if you need it in a pinch.

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When the Husky's run out of spec on the shim size you should get your valve seat area cut and have new valves put in. The valves are wearing themselves into the head thus causing less clearance. I had just done this and am glad I did now the bike's engine starts easy and runs like new again.

I dunno.

I've gone by the rule: If it moves once, shim it. If it moves again, fix it. No sense doing a valve job more often than necessary. That's worked well for me and a number of other riders that I know of. Now, don't check it "again" in 50 hours... be sensible. ๐Ÿ˜

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ok, so are the valves worn and need replaced or does the head need serviced? dealer is 3 hrs away. i know i can handle replacing valves. But if the head is worn, will i have to build it up and shave it down or what? basically can i do this myself or have it done at a machine shop?

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Its common for them to need adjustment. Adjust it by the shim option you chose, (see bickering previous) and keep track of hours and each valve clearance. In 12 hours, or sooner its so easy, check em again. If that one or the others moved tighter again, it is likely time for a rebuild.

Look up DJH or George or one of the few Husky engine builders and its gonna get done right.

Clean air is the key to long valve life, check the filter and airbox, boot and especially the manifold for tears. Manifold tears are common! ๐Ÿ˜

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Can't really answer that without knowing more.

Clearly the at least one valve has "tightened up" (moved).

That doesn't mean that you must do a valve job right away.

If the valve just moved "a little", and it's the first time that you've shimmed it, I would just shim it to spec and check it again in 5 - 10 hours.

If it's the second time the valve tightened up or it moved "a lot" (several shims), then I would replace all of the valves at the same time and have a valve job done. Replace the timing chain whenever you do a valve job. Or talk to/visit a trusted builder and get their opinion if it can wait a few hours if you're concerned about making that call yourself.

Those are Ti valves and require machine-shop tools and builder skills to seat the valves properly. You can't lap them, although you could change to Stainless Steel valves as some people have done. I'd stick with Ti, but that's just me.

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Reshim and recheck in a few hours as previously recommended. Valveseats in the head ALWAYS need cutting, possibly replacing, when TI valves are replaced. Requires special tools. Leave it to an expert with the correct tools, will work out better and cheaper in the long run.

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ok, sounds like i need a valve job. i just traded my 450r for this 07 tc450 about 2 months ago. the guy told me the valves were dead on, just had them checked. i have only put 10 hours on it. the intake valves are good, but the exhaust is tight. had a 2.35 shim, now has a 2.10 and has a .002 gap now. it does feel like its running stronger now that i have reshimmed it. how much can i expect to pay for this valve job?

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