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Would you touch this Super Duty?


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My company has an '06 F-350 Powerstroke crew cab longbed that may be on the selling block. Less than 50k miles. It's currently got a ProComp lift and 37" rubber on it.

Here's the kicker... it's had a hard life. It was used on a salvage job on the ocean and spent a lot of time going over dunes, and even some time in the saltwater. It's been to the North Slope and back, and it has some bed damage on the quarter. I took it for a ride the other day and, while the drivetrain seemed just fine, it definitely felt worked in the steering. I know it has a re-man steering box and new upper and lower balljoints in front.

I like the truck because it's exactly what I wanted for my next pickup. I don't use a truck much (ride to work everyday), but when I do I want to be able to take the family and pull whatever I need. I have a good little Ranger now, but eventually I was going to upgrade. I really don't want to spend 25K on a rig when the time comes. I would probably lose the rubber and lift as I've owned lifted rigs before and have no desire to load another one again.

What would be the maximum you would spend on a truck like this? $5k? $10k? $13k? Everybody at work says the truck is hammered and won't touch it, but for a guy who doesn't use it as a commuter and is willing to do some work it might not be a bad deal.

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Lifted, company vehicle (screams "BEAT ON ME") been used hard and put away wet....it'd have to be pretty cheap to be worth it to me.

Even though it only has 50k miles on it, you no longer have warranty on the engine, so any repairs will be out of pocket on the 6.BLOW motor.

50k miles and a new steering box would concern me about how hard this truck has been hammered. That's not normal.

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I probably wouldn't want to take my family anywhere in it until I had a chance to sort it out. If it could be gotten for $5k it would be a great beater for whatever. Then again electronics and salt water don't go well together and that could get expensive.

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If it has a 6.0 diesel in it i would pass. If it is the 6.6 diesel then I would say no more than 5K tops.

6.6? Thats the size of a Dmax. Meant 6.4 maybe?

To the OP if it has a 6 leaker DONT buy it unless your willing to drop the dough to eliminate the EGR, headgasket and turbo problems with that engine.

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Thanks for the info. I was thinking a max of 6-7k myself. I don't know, but I wonder if the steering box/ball joint bill was an effort to get rid of the dreaded Ford wandering.

So I'm curious... you would all pass on an '06 Super Duty for basically $2k net with 50K miles (sell my truck for $4k)? Because of the motor's bad reputation? I mean I can see not paying 10 or 15 for it, but you flat out wouldn't buy it at all? If I can do it for that, I won't hesitate. Parts are worth more than that.

Edited by Pro_Marinero
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Unless this thing runs and looks like absolute $hit, Why wouldnt you pay a few grand for a nice truck ???

50K, Hard or not isnt 500,000 Which diesels reach easily. I would worry about transmisson the most, but still rebuilding that wont kill you.

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Thanks for the info. I was thinking a max of 6-7k myself. I don't know, but I wonder if the steering box/ball joint bill was an effort to get rid of the dreaded Ford wandering.

So I'm curious... you would all pass on an '06 Super Duty for basically $2k net with 50K miles (sell my truck for $4k)? Because of the motor's bad reputation? I mean I can see not paying 10 or 15 for it, but you flat out wouldn't buy it at all? If I can do it for that, I won't hesitate. Parts are worth more than that.

The "dreaded Ford wander" that you're hearing about is track bar bushings. They're not hard (two bolts) and not expensive (less than $100) to replace. The lift probably isn't doing it any favors either.

I'd steer clear of it, IMHO. I'm not keen on stuff that has a track record for going kablooey.

Unless this thing runs and looks like absolute $hit, Why wouldnt you pay a few grand for a nice truck ???

50K, Hard or not isnt 500,000 Which diesels reach easily. I would worry about transmisson the most, but still rebuilding that wont kill you.

Trans-$2500.

How many hours on the engine (I'm going to bet this machine spent alot of time at low speed or idle)?

As for diesels going 500k, you'd be hard pressed to find a 6L that has that kind of miles on it without tens of thousands of dollars in engine work, quite possibly an engine overhaul or five.

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The "dreaded Ford wander" that you're hearing about is track bar bushings. They're not hard (two bolts) and not expensive (less than $100) to replace. The lift probably isn't doing it any favors either.

Really? My dad was the first to mention it to me as the state department he worked at threw a lot of money at the Super Duty rigs they had trying to fix it. Caster, ball joints, all kinds of stuff. I did a search on line it appeared to be an inherent issue with no definite fix, but lots of suggestions and speculation. Has Ford put out a TSB on it?

You're right about that lift.

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Really? My dad was the first to mention it to me as the state department he worked at threw a lot of money at the Super Duty rigs they had trying to fix it. Caster, ball joints, all kinds of stuff. I did a search on line it appeared to be an inherent issue with no definite fix, but lots of suggestions and speculation. Has Ford put out a TSB on it?

You're right about that lift.

IDK if there is a TSB on it, but it's pretty common, especially with diesels and big blocks (heavy).

One more thing to look at is spring and shackle bushings....if the rubber in them gets dry rotted, they can wander like mad-the axle is constantly shifting without solid bushings.

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Really? My dad was the first to mention it to me as the state department he worked at threw a lot of money at the Super Duty rigs they had trying to fix it. Caster, ball joints, all kinds of stuff. I did a search on line it appeared to be an inherent issue with no definite fix, but lots of suggestions and speculation. Has Ford put out a TSB on it?

You're right about that lift.

I have a PSD with a 4in Pro Comp lift.

I had to replace the steering box (with a Red Head reman box) to get decent steering. The steering wasn't terrible, just needed constant attention which got to be annoying.. Now it's 100% better.

Ball joints might last 70k if your lucky.

Steering boxes on a lifted truck, especially if it has the offset Pitman Arm will go bad long before 50k miles, especially if abused.

Caster needs to be checked, if it wasn't aligned when lifted then it needs to be checked. The factory tolerance is 3.5 deg +/-2.0 deg. Frequently they can have as little as 0.5 deg caster from the factory.

Check the torque of the track bar bolts (369ft#'s) they can be loose and give you sloppy steering.

A decent steering damper will help a little, with 37's you will need a twin steering damper setup. I have a FOX steering damper, it's OK, didn't make a lot of difference though.

IMHO I'd steer clear of that truck at pretty much any price. Around here you can get decent low mileage F250/F350 trucks with V10's pretty cheap, if you have the 6.0PSD go bad on you, you could be looking at a lot of money, even if you do the work yourself.

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6.6? Thats the size of a Dmax. Meant 6.4 maybe?

To the OP if it has a 6 leaker DONT buy it unless your willing to drop the dough to eliminate the EGR, headgasket and turbo problems with that engine.

Yes 6.4, sorry about that.

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50K on a 6.0 PSD, means its headbolts should be pulling out anytime now. Pass.

D Man want to chime in?

http://fleetservicenorthwest.com/6LPSD062209.aspx

There's plenty of info on powerstroke.org and powerstrokenation.com on putting ARP headstuds into the 6.0.

If I bought a 6.0 (and I nearly did) that's the 1st thing I'd do, along with the EGR delete. Some dealers were putting in ARP headstuds during warranty work on the headgaskets. ARP headstuds would cure a lot of the problems people had with the 6.0.

I'd also run an OASIS report to see what already had been done under warranty.

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There's plenty of info on powerstroke.org and powerstrokenation.com on putting ARP headstuds into the 6.0.

If I bought a 6.0 (and I nearly did) that's the 1st thing I'd do, along with the EGR delete. Some dealers were putting in ARP headstuds during warranty work on the headgaskets. ARP headstuds would cure a lot of the problems people had with the 6.0.

I'd also run an OASIS report to see what already had been done under warranty.

If you deleted the EGR, you'd be SOL when it came time to renew the registration, as you'd fail the smog check.

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If you deleted the EGR, you'd be SOL when it came time to renew the registration, as you'd fail the smog check.

True,

I forgot about the smog check, I don't think even my very friendly smog guy around the corner would let that go.

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