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DRZ400sm 2009 to 434


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Hello Guys, i just wanted to shared it with you. I took last night my bike and i did the following changes. BigBore 434 cylinder works , hot cams, wiseco valvues, I have the FCR 39 ,3x3,k&n, full yoshi rs3

It seems that the bike does have power or its not what i was expected. its because he told me that i need to take it slowly and then after 500kmh open up the gas ? or it might be something else ?

Thanks

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Hello Guys, i just wanted to shared it with you. I took last night my bike and i did the following changes. BigBore 434 cylinder works , hot cams, wiseco valvues, I have the FCR 39 ,3x3,k&n, full yoshi rs3

It seems that the bike does have power or its not what i was expected. its because he told me that i need to take it slowly and then after 500kmh open up the gas ? or it might be something else ?

Thanks

There are many theories on the best way to " run in " a new piston/rings..

What your mechanic is telling you , is the safest way to run in ..

I have always just gone to about 1/2 throttle for the first hour or so ,to bed the rings in a little and after that ride as per usual...

Some may disagree with my tips, but I have never had any Lack of Performance or Oil Consumption issues with any of my bikes...

The important thing is to run mineral oil and vary your RPM for the initial few hundred kms....:banana:

Avoid the highways and constant rpm...

With those mods you may need to re-jet...Maybe go to #160 or 165MJ and 1 clip lower on needle..See how it runs first ......:eek:

Enjoy,,,Craig

Edited by CraigoDRZ400sm
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Vary the RPM,s keep shifting up and down.I had no issues running mine up to hi rpms during the break in.On the jetting,with the bigbore,you normally need to run a bit leaner.I switched from a 160 main to a 155 on my fcr.The 434 with a set of hotcams,made a huge power difference on my SM.

Was your 3x3 mod done before the BB and cams?

Mirage says he did this at same time as BB...more air needs more fuel..

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He has a dyno center and he said the rejet the bike not perfectly but to make sure i will not have a problem for now. he set to keep it in low RPM and up to half throttle... he said is better ti go to the mountains that has many turns in order the bike to get load. he also told me not to run it in low RPM with like 4th or 5th gear...

i gues i will do that for like 500 kmh and thne he told me to put it on dyno to fix the carb...

By the way i love the BREMBO that i put 😉 i think after i finish with that endo are waitting🤣

There are many theories on the best way to " run in " a new piston/rings..

What your mechanic is telling you , is the safest way to run in ..

I have always just gone to about 1/2 throttle for the first hour or so ,to bed the rings in a little and after that ride as per usual...

Some may disagree with my tips, but I have never had any Lack of Performance or Oil Consumption issues with any of my bikes...

The important thing is to run mineral oil and vary your RPM for the initial few hundred kms....:banana:

Avoid the highways and constant rpm...

With those mods you may need to re-jet...Maybe go to #160 or 165MJ and 1 clip lower on needle..See how it runs first ......:eek:

Enjoy,,,Craig

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You will need to go down to a 155 or 158 mj.

Running in is up to your self, personally, I allways run my engines in hard (easy the first minutes), and never had any issues.

Use a cheap oil(non syntetic) for the break in of the cams, and change back to the good stuff after a couple of hours of running.

You should feel a big improvement with the cams and BB, could it be that timing is off or you forgot correct clearance on the cam/valves (hotcams are 0.10-0.15 on intake and 0.15-0.20 on exhausts) ??

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He has a dyno center and he said the rejet the bike not perfectly but to make sure i will not have a problem for now. he set to keep it in low RPM and up to half throttle... he said is better ti go to the mountains that has many turns in order the bike to get load. he also told me not to run it in low RPM with like 4th or 5th gear...

i gues i will do that for like 500 kmh and thne he told me to put it on dyno to fix the carb...

Sounds reasonable...except the low rpm and 1/2 throttle for 500kms.:banana:

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He did fix the cams correctly as he claims.... as for the oil i have to ask him.. As for the timing i have the MCCT

Thanks

You will need to go down to a 155 or 158 mj.

Running in is up to your self, personally, I allways run my engines in hard (easy the first minutes), and never had any issues.

Use a cheap oil(non syntetic) for the break in of the cams, and change back to the good stuff after a couple of hours of running.

You should feel a big improvement with the cams and BB, could it be that timing is off or you forgot correct clearance on the cam/valves (hotcams are 0.10-0.15 on intake and 0.15-0.20 on exhausts) ??

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He told me to ride it correctly not low RPM but not High RPM normal

and not to go on an uphill with 60 kmh and have the 4th or 5th gear :eek: this is what i was trying to explain 😉

Sounds reasonable...except the low rpm and 1/2 throttle for 500kms.:banana:
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50 miles is like 100 kmh... i think i might go more just in case. I let it get warm and then i take the bike. I do it in both of my bikes

many ways to do it

my way is build it right .. its the first 50 miles that count as far as ring seal goes

so ... i put it together ... start it let it warm up , and hammer it . :banana:

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I just wanted to ask does it matters the fuel that iam putting on my bike ?

Here we have 95 octanes, 98 octanes and 100 octanes

Currently iam using the 95 octanes...

Also note that the 3 layer gasket that i should install we modified to the one layer...

Does it matters the Fuel ?

Thanks

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If you are running hi-compression use the high octane fuel ...:banana:

you may get detonation/pinging from lower octane fuel..😉

Detonation or pinging occurs when pressure in the combustion chamber cause the air/fuel mixture to autoignite...🤣

This produces multiple flame fronts within the combustion chamber instead of a single flame kernel.

When these multiple flames collide, they do so with explosive force that produces a sudden rise in cylinder pressure accompanied by a sharp metallic pinging or knocking noise..🤣

The hammer-like shock waves created by detonation subject the head gasket, piston, rings, spark plug and rod bearings to severe overloading....

The octane rating is a measure of its detonation resistance. The higher the octane number, the better able the fuel is to resist detonation....

So , If you hear pinging in your engine under acceleration or load ,use a higher octane fuel....:eek:

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Thanks a lot buddy you was clear enough... I am running high compression. to bad that i feel it up yesterday with the cheap petrol. I will do 98 and then 100 to see the difference. As for the knocking noise i hear it... what do you mean by pinging ?

If you are running hi-compression use the high octane fuel ...:banana:

you may get detonation/pinging from lower octane fuel..😉

Detonation or pinging occurs when pressure in the combustion chamber cause the air/fuel mixture to autoignite...🤣

This produces multiple flame fronts within the combustion chamber instead of a single flame kernel.

When these multiple flames collide, they do so with explosive force that produces a sudden rise in cylinder pressure accompanied by a sharp metallic pinging or knocking noise..🤣

The hammer-like shock waves created by detonation subject the head gasket, piston, rings, spark plug and rod bearings to severe overloading....

The octane rating is a measure of its detonation resistance. The higher the octane number, the better able the fuel is to resist detonation....

So , If you hear pinging in your engine under acceleration or load ,use a higher octane fuel....:eek:

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I will do first the petrol change having half 95 and half 98 and i will be going slowly to test which octanes are good for the bike... I think that our petrol is like the 87 91 93 like in usa or might other countries have different ? what they have in Australia ?

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I will do first the petrol change having half 95 and half 98 and i will be going slowly to test which octanes are good for the bike... I think that our petrol is like the 87 91 93 like in usa or might other countries have different ? what they have in Australia ?

:banana: We have 91 , 95 and 98....I always use 98 in my SM ,and sometimes I still get detonation on std ignition map.. When I use the 2 or 4 degrees advance map I have to use RF100 race fuel..

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