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YZ 125 Purchase Used: Questions


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I am ready to get into a YZ 125. My son has grown out of his TTR and should be ready for a 125 2-Stroke. Here in the LA area there seems to be alot of choices for "99 thru 2002 models from $900 to $1,400. Most claim top end rebuilds etc. I will be able to see the obvious, but would be some of the charactaristics of a bad bike that would cost alot to get right? What are some of the things you guys have seen that sellers have tried to pass by you?

Thanks to all in advance

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just like you said about top end rebuilds (try to get the reciept) I bought my bike and the seller probably dint know but i took the pipe off to clean it and looked in the cylinder and i seen two scores and ruined my week. so look in the cylinder and take a look at the piston to. I live in the same area as you and bikes are expesive right now for some reason o i would wait til a deal pops up. Before i bought my yz, it needed gaphics, sprokets, chain, re jet and it really adds up.

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This is funny, but look at the air filter. #1 way to see if someone stays up on maint. or is BS'ing........

people who maintain properly don't let their air filters get dirty.....

One of the top ways to kill a 125 two stroke race bike.

The reason the '99-'02 is expensive right now is the green sticker.

They will go down around Oct. when all the red stickers can be ridden off road.

My $.02......With 125's you have to assume the worst because the top is only good for 10-30hrs. depending on use.

Easy off-road, 30hr., hard off road, 20hr., hard MX, 10hr.....so you're assuming the guy's telling the truth and if he's not,

you'll soon possibly have a cracked piston and the resulting damage.

With 250's you can get away with believing the guy a little more because the tops last twice as long.

So I'd get a bike that doesn't need all the things you can see and verify,

then just start with a fresh top and bottom with a clean slate

unless the guy can really document all the maint. with receipts and dates of riding, which most can't.

I bought my 250 from a guy who literally had yearly receipts of top kits, fresh filter

and a logbook of their rides. In that case, yeah, he's prob. telling the truth.

But most claim it without proof, then you get home and have what happened to crider happen,

or worse, it loses a piston and you might lose the cases. That's why in general, I just assume a

top/bottom on an older bike unless the documentation and seller are really verifiable..

Other big items are the suspension bearings for the linkage/shock/swingarm/wheels.

Put the bike on a stand, have a buddy hold the front and check for lateral play.

Put the bike back on the ground and move the rear/seat up and down through the

sag neutral point and at full extension and feel for catching/roughness/play.

Look at the fork tubes for leaks. engine case around the case saver and underneath for oil.

Pull the trans. level bolt on the right side to see oil level and condition.

Look at the air filter as mentioned, look at the pegs/chain/sprocket for wear.

I had one guy say he did maint. by the book, the teeth on the rear sprocket were nubs and

the chain could flex sideways out to the frame.....:banana:

I hate to say it but dirt bike guys don't have the best record for shooting straight when selling.......

Edited by carver
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Thanks for all of the info gents. I expect to drop $500-700 into it right off the bat because I will know where the top end and other high wear parts will start. If the fork and swing arm look good then I think I am in pretty good shape. I am going to be patient with the purchase and have plenty of time.

Wasn't that aware of the low life span of the top ends. We will be riding mostly trails and not real hard, but there will be 10-15 hour weekends 3-4 times a year.

What should I expect to pay per year to maintain this machine......for real

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