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Race Tech Gold Valves???


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Has anyone used these? i have posted a link at the bottom its the top option in the list. do you think il will be able to get it right and not FUBAR my forks i need to do fork seals and i figure "while in rome" i might aswell get my front end setup for my wieght and ability. Now do you guys think i should go this rout at 169.99 and fluid and seals and my time or pay the 300$ to 400$ to just get them revalved and seals done by a suspension shop?

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=119&manufacture=Honda&model=CRF450R&year=2004&TABLEINFO=dirt&langname=english

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When you pay the extra $$ to get the forks revalved at a Race-Tech shop (or Factory Connection; I've used both), you also get their "proprietary" shim stack installed to further improve your bike's fittment to your gear-on weight and riding style. Do yourself a favor and revalve your shock at the same time. If you just want to replace the fork valves and seals, you can do them yourself; no biggie.

That said, I've known local shops to do "feels good", "feels great!", "ummm...okay", and "that absolutely sucks" jobs of tuning a shim stack. If you're iffy about the shop, aren't close to a bonifide suspension tuner, or want to save some bucks, by all means give it a go yourself. Again, I highly recommend doing the shock at the same time, and that's a shop-job unless you have the tools for it.

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Has anyone used these? i have posted a link at the bottom its the top option in the list. do you think il will be able to get it right and not FUBAR my forks i need to do fork seals and i figure "while in rome" i might aswell get my front end setup for my wieght and ability. Now do you guys think i should go this rout at 169.99 and fluid and seals and my time or pay the 300$ to 400$ to just get them revalved and seals done by a suspension shop?

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=119&manufacture=Honda&model=CRF450R&year=2004&TABLEINFO=dirt&langname=english

no I say don't do it they suck

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Have them in the now famous "800+ hour crf450".. they work great, MUCH better than stock. Race tech is a good company built since the early 80's from a racer-for racers. The tech support you get with Race Tech is very helpful as well, and your shim stack is designed for your riding ability, weight, mx/woods/etc.

Pick up a copy of this months RoadRacing World, there is a very good article about the company.

It would be silly to just to the front or back, the bike likely will no longer be ballanced.. The valving/springs should work together, not be set up for 2 different riding styles/condiitons. In fact, they talked me out of just doing my shock on the cr250 when the factory connection piston wrecked the o-ring. THAT is good customer service.

KEN, you CAN'T take a few posts by the few people that choose to post as the gospal. You need to make informed decisions on MORE than just a thread you start on an internet forum. Do some research, call the companies and see what you think about what they tell you. DOn't expect to be spoon fed "do this" and "don't do that".

PS: Ken-Harrington, Ken-O-matic and Picapacapopo are now in a CLOSE battle for "most threads ever to be run on the 1st page".. jk guys. It's all good.

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Have them in the now famous "800+ hour crf450".. they work great, MUCH better than stock. Race tech is a good company built since the early 80's from a racer-for racers. The tech support you get with Race Tech is very helpful as well, and your shim stack is designed for your riding ability, weight, mx/woods/etc.

Pick up a copy of this months RoadRacing World, there is a very good article about the company.

It would be silly to just to the front or back, the bike likely will no longer be ballanced.. The valving/springs should work together, not be set up for 2 different riding styles/condiitons. In fact, they talked me out of just doing my shock on the cr250 when the factory connection piston wrecked the o-ring. THAT is good customer service.

KEN, you CAN'T take a few posts by the few people that choose to post as the gospal. You need to make informed decisions on MORE than just a thread you start on an internet forum. Do some research, call the companies and see what you think about what they tell you. DOn't expect to be spoon fed "do this" and "don't do that".

PS: Ken-Harrington, Ken-O-matic and Picapacapopo are now in a CLOSE battle for "most threads ever to be run on the 1st page".. jk guys. It's all good.

see this is the kind of information i was/am looking for..................

PS: Ken-Harrington is now in the running with Picapacapopo for "most threads ever to be run on the 1st page"..

just kidding guys. If info was power, you guys would now be superheros. thanks but i am cheap ass all hell and dont want to waste money on something i will be dissapointed by

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see this is the kind of information i was/am looking for..................

PS: Ken-Harrington is now in the running with Picapacapopo for "most threads ever to be run on the 1st page"..

just kidding guys. If info was power, you guys would now be superheros. thanks but i am cheap ass all hell and dont want to waste money on something i will be dissapointed by

totally understand, please let me have some fun taking a jab at ya in return for putting together an informative post..

:banana:

In regard to cost, i didn't look at your thread you posted earlier, but $100 to professionally take apart/clean/inspect/new oil/put together (full standard service) in the industry is around $100 for a set of forks or a shock ($200 for both).

The gold valve and shim kit along with the setup info you get from RaceTech and a access code to get further assistance is about $260 each .. so your looking at $700+ to do both. Good suspension, put together by a pro.. ain't cheap. I could be a bit off on the gold valve kits.

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Ya those racetech valves are great...nothing like putting 1990's tech into your 21 first century Mx bike...

The stock valves are fantastic. Getting the shim stack right is the part you need to work on.

All racetech does is sell you a stack theory where you need to buy springs too.

All the valve body does is route fluid to the stack. The stack does all the work. The stack is what you feel. If the stack is wrong, you feel like your bike is wrong.

Check out the suspension forums but dont put a whole bunch of eggs in the "trick valves" stuff. Its BS. Back in the day when we were still sorting this crap out, and I mean back in the day...the OEM valves needed improvement. And the OEMs saw what guys were doing and in turn made theirs better. Other than some Kashima coatings and stuff, the OEM valves are pretty friggin good. There are a lot of guys finishing in the top 20 of Nationals using OEM valves with a restacking of the shims. Not everybody can afford A kit stuff. Or even B kit stuff for that matter.

Check out Doggers suspension DYI thread. He didnt really know all that much about what he was doing when he started, but who the hell does. But now, in a pretty short period really...he's pretty good, and he's put the whole thing up on TT for free. And he didnt do anything you cant.

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FRONT FORK REVALVE:

After a rider interview to determine what needs to be done, the front fork is completely disassembled, cleaned and inspected. Worn parts are replaced, then modifications to the damping system are done based on our interpretation of what the rider needs. The front fork is reassembled using genuine KAYABA parts and oil.

$180.00 plus parts and oil

FRONT FORK PARTS AND OIL:

Genuine KAYABA parts and oil : DUST SEALS, OIL SEALS, UPPER AND LOWER BUSHINGS. Fatigued valving in the MID SPEED VALVE and BASE VALVE are replaced. Genuine KAYABA 0-1 front fork oil is used.

$70.00

REAR SHOCK REVALVE:

After a rider interview is completed to determine what needs to be done, the rear shock is completely disassembled, cleaned, and inspected. Based upon the rider's needs, the damping system is modified, and the shock reassembled using genuine KAYABA parts and KAYABA K2C oil.

$180.00 plus parts and oil

REAR SHOCK PARTS AND OIL:

Genuine KAYABA parts and oil: OIL SEAL, SEAL CASE O-RING, SHAFT BUSHING, PISTON RING and O-RING. Fatigued valving is replaced in compression and rebound stacks. Genuine KAYABA K2C oil is used.

$50.00

Im sure the prices are the same for Showa. looks like $725 total with springs. Call them up and say 'Josh from mxwheels.net (Damons neighbor)sent you'

Edited by jt1872001
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to say that Race Tech only does revalve is not correct, they recomend springs for your weight and the bike. The 04 came with slightly stiff fork springs to begin with (my shock spring was correct for me). Getting the softer fork springs and doing the front and rear totally changed my bike. Could i have revalved the stock stuff? Sure.. but i would have been guessing at what shim stack to go with. Race Tech on-line and phone support is awesome.

I get nothing from them.. I get support from Ohlins USA in N.C. (Thermosman is my hero..) but Race tech is a good company with good product/service

Is the stock stuff good? Sure it is, but if you want something more suited to you, race tech is not a bad option. For most of us it beats buying an aftermarket shock to get good results.

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to say that Race Tech only does revalve is not correct, they recomend springs for your weight and the bike. The 04 came with slightly stiff fork springs to begin with (my shock spring was correct for me). Getting the softer fork springs and doing the front and rear totally changed my bike. Could i have revalved the stock stuff? Sure.. but i would have been guessing at what shim stack to go with. Race Tech on-line and phone support is awesome.

I get nothing from them.. I get support from Ohlins USA in N.C. (Thermosman is my hero..) but Race tech is a good company with good product/service

Is the stock stuff good? Sure it is, but if you want something more suited to you, race tech is not a bad option. For most of us it beats buying an aftermarket shock to get good results.

The RaceTech spring calculator uses suggested rates based on their valving theory. If you use that calculator with an OEM style setup, your springs will be too soft about 75% of the time, Unless youre a super light guy/girl.

There are a lot of guys that like the RaceTech stuff. They sell you a bunch of stuff you can put in at home and they give you a bunch of tech support to get it working right. Its not a bad deal.

What Im saying is, you can get the support you need to get the OEM stuff setup with about 30 bucks worth of shims and a couple quarts of oil. And not loose all that time too.

The biggest problem with suspension is guys dont know what they want. All they know is what they dont want. But they dont know what is causing what they dont want, so they dont know how to get the thing setup so it does what they do want. Communication here is the absolute key. Having a suspension guy that can watch what your doing while you ride, what the bike is doing is really the key. A buddy can watch, but if he doesnt know what the hell he's looking for or at its of no use.

When Im doing somebody elses stuff the questions I ask are:

What level do you think you ride at? Do you race? What class? Where do you finish?

How far is your biggest jump? Are you down siding that jump? Are you flat landing or over jumping it?

Next is how do you get through the woops? jump, blitz, simply survive?

What does the bike do in those circumstances? Bottom, harsh, ok but stiff

How does it corner? Push the front, dive, carve the inside but wants to tuck the front sometimes...wander?

Braking bumps? Are they beating the shit out of you?

There are two hundred ways to skin this cat. RaceTech is just one of them. Probably one of the best marketed for sure.

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Can't disagree with that for the most part. I do know my bike was night and day but i went from a stock mx set up to an expert woods setup. Pretty soft in the initial stroke for mx, and it was not as much fun for that riding, but totally awesome in the woods and single track. It glides over small braking bumps approaching trees, while still retaining front end feel (had to dial in a bunch of comp. as thier setting was too soft to even feel the front end).

Suspension is one of those things that needs to continually change somewhat as ability and conditions change too. When right, the bike can feel incredible with lap times to back up the good feeling. When way wrong it can make a bike nearly unrideable. And sometimes.. fast "feeling" is actually slow. Suspension is where it's at, all the HP in the world can't help sometimes. find a good suspension tuner that can "steer" you right and work with them.

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Oh how I love the RT threads. People do your self a favor and please give this some thought...

1. Are you to lazy to learn some basic principals?

2. Can you read and understand material?

3. Are you a woods rider?

4. Are you slow as SH@!?

If you answer yes to any of these questions then yes the RT valves are for you.

Now some food for thought...

Showa/KYB spend HR's or R&D to get their suspension to work. Now remember that what comes stock on the Asian bike will probably work for less than 10% of the people that by the bike. So then comes the need to get the correct set up for you.

Now if you are lazy and like everyone else to do your work then send it out to FC, PC, MB1 or RG3. You will get a cookie cutter setup that will work for a tested group that you fit in.

Now if you want to learn and increase your knowledge of suspension and its not hard it just takes some E-F-F-O-R-T!!!!

You can learn how to service and re-valve your own suspension and DIY and keep $800 in your pocket and use it for that cam, pipe porting and beer!

Read my DIY at the top and I am more than happy to help answer any question that you might have and teach you to fish. I'll help you get a stack together that will be a base for you to work off of. No I know that the thread has become some what long and has some BS I wish could be removed. I even had MX-Tech in there trying to confuse and discourage people to work and learn about suspension...

Ok so now on to the RT valves...like Shawn has suggested you are putting old technology into your bike. The valves are made out of brass and the oil gets contaminated very quickly...you'll think that you hit a gold rush when you open the fork/shock up after 5 hrs of run time. No PRO runs the RT valves. They might have the stickers but it just plain old valving inside.

The RT valves also pre-load the shims and fatigue then quicker than normal. RT system is based on the face that the BV should be doing all the work just like the 1990 standard forks. The MV is eliminated. So why not just remove it altogether? Lets just put a check plate in there....

Oh now in the shock you are going to struggle with a castle cut piston band. yada yada yada...I can go on and on and on.....

So save your hard earned $$$ that the OBAMANATION it $tealing from you and learn to tune your own suspension.

https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390319

theDogger

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