Question for someone that has installed grease zerks w/ success...

Tim Freed are you out there? I know you completed this project with sucess and I have a couple questions...

I have already got all the zerks in the proper places so no problem there. My problem is when I have everything reassembled there is absolutey no way I can keep my seals from being pushed off. The grease compresses between the collar and the needle bearings (exacly what it is supposed to do so far) but once it's past the collar it gets behind the seals and shoves them right off.

I tried Tim's method of cutting the seal's inner lip .050 to let grease through but to no avail. You can read about that here

Luckily I have 2 more new seals to replace those with.

Im out of ideas and I think Im gonna have to go back to the old method of just pulling the swingarm every couple months. :)

Dang I really had high hopes that this would work.

It is best to take it apart and grease it. zerks dont work well in tight places with no clearances like bushings or needle bearings. They are better with ball bearings. A good spot for them is on your steering head bearings.

That's what I did. I wanted to install grease zerks on the swingarm bearing and linkage, but there is not enough clearances to let the old grease out. And if you have free play, the bearing is shot . So the steering head bearing is the best place for a zerk.

It's too bad that the Yamaha designers didn't think of that :). In my book, if a manufacturer claims to have built one of the best enduro bike, they shouldn't have overlook small details like this. Details make the difference when you are in the middle of nowhere.

It's still a good bike :D but maintenance would be so much easier, and we could spend more time riding instead of wrenching.

I have instaled many grease zerks succesfully i drill the hole as straight as posible then you you tap the hole it's easy :)

I successfully installed grease zerks on my WR450 swingarm linkage and haven't had any of the problems described here. Definitely one of the toughest mods I have done (drilling through the stainless bearing casings) but definitely one of the most worth while.

I have considered doing the steering head mod but haven't gotten around to that yet. :)

I have instaled many grease zerks succesfully i drill the hole as straight as posible then you you tap the hole it's easy :)

Im not having a problem with getting the zerks in. I have already done all that with great success. I just cant keep the seals on without the grease pushing them off when I pump grease through.


You mentioned the seals pop out when you push grease through them. When this happens, does it require the removal of the swingarm and linkage to push them back in or can you do it while the swingarm and linkage is still on the bike?

I was just thinking how annoying it would be having to manually push the seals back in each time you greased it. However, it still seems like it would be easier to do that each time than it would be to take the entire linkage apart to grease them the oldfashioned way. Just thinking out loud here. :)


Yes, if you push grease in and the seals come off, the only way (I know of) to get them back in is to drop the swingarm. :)

If I could get to the seals without taking the swingarm off then yes you would be right. It still would be easier to pump grease in, and then push the seals back in by hand but unfortunatly that dosent work.

However, I have found one plus to the whole thing so far. With the swingarm off and the seals off I can put the collars back in and pump grease into the zerks and it will flush out all the old grease and put a new bed of grease in for the pin bearings. So that makes it easier that taking all the pin bearings out.

So all is not lost, but it still dosent get me exactly where I'd like to be with this project.

I've had no problems whatsoever and my seals have never popped out. I stop pushing the grease in when I start feeling resistance. I also use Amsoil's "Racing" synthetic grease which is relatively light.

By the way, I tapped my 2 link bolts for 10 mm grease fittings and didn't need helicoils...

I also decided against a steering head grease fitting to avoid having a pound of grease compressed on the steering shaft...There's a lot of space in there! Besides, it's good measure to clean the grit out of the bottom bearing, grease and retorque periodically.

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