Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

The SLOWRIDING HEADLIGHT SWITCH MOD = best thing since 3x3 and sliced bread

Recommended Posts

I wanted to say thanks to SLOWRIDING for posting such a simple approach to a on/off switch for the headlight. My battery really loves the fact that I can turn the key and the headlight won't start the power drain.

This mod made me more happy than all my other stuff! Best yet, it took me 30 seconds and it didn't have any negative affects on the wiring of the bike.

Thanks again slowriding and thumpertalk!

Originally posted here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9623802&postcount=9

Even easier is just unplug the headlight, rotate the plug, re-connect so yellow isn't connected.

Your wife will thank you, and your hair won't be all curly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just Did Mine Also Thanks! Is It A Little Too Bright At Night With The High Beam On? Guess Ill Find Out :bonk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mine doesn't seem too bright. this is only temporary until I wire up my HIDs...but I will wire those up similar to lo-beam HID on when hi-beam is toggled.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Credit also goes to lat19hi for refining the idea

lat19hi

Join Date: Oct 2008

Location: Hawaii

Posts: 76

Slowrider, thanks a bunch. Rotating the headlight connection plug worked perfect. This is the easiest mod so far 5min. Before you try shorting out filaments or installing switches try this one. When it’s time for my safety check I can rotate the connection back (how it was) along with putting the mirrors back on. BTW if you want low beam and off, rotate the plug so the yellow wire is not connected[highlight] if you want high beam and off (my preference) rotate the connection 180 degrees. Thanks again![/highlight]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
[highlight]mine doesn't seem too bright.[/highlight] this is only temporary until I wire up my HIDs...but I will wire those up similar to lo-beam HID on when hi-beam is toggled.

Turn it 180 (upside down) and it will be brighter with full high beam. Turning it 90 degrees goes through low and high in series so they glow half bright. When I first came up with the idea was in a thread to get home if your charging system starts failing out in the bush and I was thinking more about reducing power draw than optimal lighting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BTW if you want low beam and off, rotate the plug so the yellow wire is not connected[highlight] if you want high beam and off (my preference) rotate the connection 180 degrees. Thanks again![/highlight]

Ok, I've done 180 which is high beam & off, right?

I would rather have low beam & off.

How exactly to I stop the yellow wire / pin from being connected?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you prefer low beam it requires slightly more work. Take a very small flat screwdriver and slip it down the side of the yellow wire to release the retention tab. This is looking into the headlight plug from the plug side. Tape the wire and you have temporarily eliminated high. If you bend the tab flat to the side of the wire you will be able to insert and remove as you desire. Or now that you are actually making changes you could wire in a switch unless you prefer to avoid cutting the harness.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided to use an even simpler approach for the Low & Off.

I just put a piece of a plastic bag over the yellow pin and reconnected.

I had to reposition the plastic and replug it about 3 times before it worked perfectly.

pin1k.jpg

pin2a.jpg

Edited by Premises187
Added pics

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There also is a "stealth mode" mod that i have done to mine. Allows the bike to run lights off when the key is in the park position. Found it here on TT several years ago. also lets you pull the key out with bike running. Very useful at times.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my multi-meter out today to have a poke around.

I had

12.75v while switched off

12.71v Switched on (no headlight, no engine)

12.28v low beam on (no engine)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well this is about as far opposite as the 'unplug, turn, replug' as can be found, but for those with no fear of cutting wires........

There also is a "stealth mode" mod that i have done to mine. Allows the bike to run lights off when the key is in the park position. Found it here on TT several years ago. also lets you pull the key out with bike running. Very useful at times.

You mean this one?

Long rambling thread found here:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=784025&page=5&highlight=stealth+mode

Juicy part:

found the previous post explaining how to do it. cut and paste follows:

Well, since I had no power here in Toronto today, I decided to finally

wire up a stealth switch on my "S". Basically what I wanted was a way

to kill all the lights (including brake light) on the bike while still

maintaining engine, warning instrument lights, cooling fan and other

essentials.

After studying the wiring diagram, I figured out a very easy way to do

this. The key has a "P" position which leaves the rear tail light on

but nothing else. Since I have no use for that function I decided to

use that key position instead of adding a separate switch.

After cutting two wires and adding two jumpers (all behind the

headlight) I could run the engine in "P" with no lights, no instruments,

no fan, nothing but engine. Very cool!

1. Cut the brown wire coming out of the ignition switch.

2. Cut the Orange/Yellow wire going to the engine kill switch.

3. Add a jumper between the brown wire coming out of the ignition switch

and the Orange/Yellow wire going to the kill switch. Your engine will

now run with the key in the "P" position.

4. Add a jumper between the brown wire going to the tail light (the

other end of the one you cut in step 1) and the Orange/Yellow wire which

used to feed the kill switch (the other end of the one you cut in step

2). Your tail light will now operate whenever your headlight is on.

That's it folks! To get instruments working as well as the cooling fan,

you need to run more jumpers from the brown wire coming out of the

ignition switch to the various devices. Orange/Green on the warning

lights cluster, Orange on the speedo thingy, and Blue on the fan. Email

me if you need more details...

My speedo stays on in the "P" position, but the backlight is off. If

you want backlight, you have to wire up the Gray wire too. I also have

all warning lights working in "P", the neutral light is quite bright and

the only one which is I wouldn't mind dimming somehow... another

project. I also wired up the cooling fan to work normally in "P" mode.

That required wiring under the tank, but if you skip that (fan is only

really needed when you're not moving, plus you still have your coolant

light working to warn you), then all wiring changes are done behind the

headlight, you touch nothing else!

So now I can go trail riding without lights, or let the bike warm up in

my driveway without lights having to be on. An added bonus is that you

can remove your key when in the "P" position, so you don't have to have

it rattling around on the trails. I measured a draw of about .6 amps

when the key is in "P", but keep in mind that I have all the instruments

wired up. When the fan kicks in, it adds another 1.6 amps for a total

of 2.2. The fan draws up to 3 amps when it first starts up, but this is

very momentary, so I feel the feed from the brown wire is enough. If

you are concerned about this, add a relay along the way. I didn't...

Anyways, I better sign off now... must conserve power! I was without it

for over 24 hours!!! Even had to dig out my 12 volt soldering iron!

:~)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had mine wired 180 degrees rotated, so OFF and HI-BEAM....which I didn't find overly bright to kill oncoming motorists eyes.

I did however wire up my single mode (no hi-beam) DDM HID lights and moved around the pins so that I have OFF and HID.

I thought there was going to be a lot more work involved than plugging an playing the DDM like on some other vehicles....but that's all that was needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tip! I just rotated 180 degrees and that will work just fine for me.

I love the simple solution. There are some other great ideas posted in the forums, but they were a bit too much for what I'm ready to take on by myself.

I love this Thumper Think Tank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×