07 exc 525 no spark

[XR RON]

after breaking my only key last week dont ask , and while im waiting for a new one i figure i should know how to hot wire it . rather than get the wiring diagram before starting i start tying wires together. after blowing the fuse twice i get the manual and its clear how easy it is .

connect bl & br and connect ye-r & wt-r .so now it cranks, and turn sig work but no spark

so what did i fry, CDI, PICK UP , COIL , ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APREICIATED

what can i test with out thro in lots of money at it

i have also asked over at ktm talk

[L-vie]

Well I also posted this on KTMTalk.

Posted by KevInYorks

This reply is about ignition problems, but I will leave in in for other to use

Resistance checks:

Ignition Coil

Measure Cable colours Resistance

primary coil blue/white � ground 0.30 Ω �15%

secondary coil blue/white � ignition wire 6.30 kΩ �20%

Stator

Ignition Measure cable colours Resistance

Pulser coil red � green 100 Ω� 20 Ω

4K-3B (2004 model but yours will be similar?)

Exciter black/red � red/white 15 Ω� 3 Ω

Charge coil ground � yellow 0.65 Ω � 0.15 Ω

white � yellow 0.16 Ω � 0.03 Ω

Voltage checks

Measuring conditions:

� cold engine

� seat and tank removed

� all connectors and the ground connection in a non-corroding condition, connectors tightly connected

� battery loaded (if installed) and light switch turned off

� the gap between the rotor and pulse generator must be set to 0.75 mm

� compression release lever pulled

� kick the kick starter forcefully at least 5 times for each measurement

Check the pulse generator for an output signal � two-pin connector

with green and red cable colors:

� Apply the red measuring lead to the green cable and the black measuring lead to the red cable, disconnect the CDI unit

Multimeter display: 4.5 volts +/- 0.5 volt

� Same measurement with CDI unit connected

Multimeter display: 3 volts +/- 0.5 volt

Check the generator charging coil for ignition capacitor charge � two-pin

connector with black/red and red/white cable colors :

� Apply the red measuring lead to the black/red cable and the black measuring lead to the red/white cable, disconnect the CDI unit

Multimeter display: 30 volts (35 volts for 400 SX) +/- 5 volts

� Same measurement with CDI unit connected

Multimeter display: 200 volts +/- 10 volts

Check the primary voltage output for ignition coil control for output voltage (blue/white cable color):

� Apply the red measuring lead to the black/white cable (ground) and the black measuring lead to the blue/white cable, CDI unit and ignition coil connected

Multimeter display: 200 volts +/- 10 volts

Yellow wire feeds ac to the lights, white wire charges battery (via regulator/rectifier)

Checking the generator output

Measuring conditions:

� cold engine

� seat and tank removed

� all connectors and the ground connection in a non-corroding condition, connectors tightly connected

� battery loaded (if installed) and light switch turned off

� compression release lever pulled

� kick the kick starter forcefully at least 5 times for each measurement

Check the generator output for voltage between the following cable colors:

� between yellow and brown (ground), loom disconnected

Multimeter display: 15 volts +/- 1 volt

� same measurement with loom connected

Multimeter display: 12 volts +/- 1 volt

� between white and brown (ground), loom disconnected

Multimeter display: 19 volts +/- 1 volt

� same measurement with loom connected

Multimeter display: 14 volts +/- 1 volt

NOTE: The black measuring lead of the peak voltage adapter must be

applied to the ground.

Check regulator rectifier output voltage cable colors yellow/red, regulator rectifier bk connected,

capacitor disconnected (if installed) and fuse bm removed:

� between yellow/red and brown (ground)

Multimeter display: 14 volts +/- 1 volt

NOTE:

� The black measuring lead of the peak voltage adapter must be

applied to the ground.

� For facilitation of work, the regulator rectifier bk can be detached from

the frame.

Checking the voltage regulator-rectifier

A defect voltage regulator can cause different kinds of trouble:

● No voltage in the circuit

In this case, the voltage regulator must be disconnected at idle speed.

The voltage regulator is defect if the power consumers now work

properly.

If the power consumers are still not supplied with power, the switch,

the wiring harness or the ignition system must be checked for defects.

● Excessive voltage in the circuit

The bulbs burn out. In this case the voltage regulator must be

replaced.

Checking the charging voltage

NOTE: The values stated below only apply to fully charged batteries

(minimum charging level 90%).

� Start the engine and switch on the low beam.

� Connect a voltmeter to both battery connections.

� Accelerate the engine to a speed of 5000 rpm and read the voltage.

Nominal value: 14.0 - 15.0 V

In the case of a significant deviation from the nominal value:

� Check the connector between the stator and the voltage regulatorrectifier

and the connector between the voltage regulator-rectifier and

the cable tree.

� Check the stator.

� Replace the voltage regulator-rectifier

[pterry]

Quick tip on your key. Get an extra blank key from the dealer, take your new key and have it reproduced at home depot for cheap. I tried having it done from the original to the keys you buy at Home depot, but it doesn't work.

I bet I know how you broke it...... Did it have to do with your steering lock?

[somerider]

I forgot my key at home before so I had to hotwire my 07. Y and W are to energize the starter button so connect them. Bl and br are to ground out the ignition so disconnect them and it will spark.

[azmotobrat]

after breaking my only key last week dont ask , and while im waiting for a new one i figure i should know how to hot wire it . rather than get the wiring diagram before starting i start tying wires together. after blowing the fuse twice i get the manual and its clear how easy it is .

connect bl & br and connect ye-r & wt-r .so now it cranks, and turn sig work but no spark

so what did i fry, CDI, PICK UP , COIL , ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APREICIATED

what can i test with out thro in lots of money at it

i have also asked over at ktm talk

I don't mean to be too radical, but.....

I removed anything that had related to the key activation in my 07 525 EXC the day I bought it brand new. I am not sure how much street riding you do on yours and if you have to leave it unattended in the urban areas, but I figured there is no need for a lock, whether ignition or especially fork anywhere out on the dirt. Is helps to shed off some weight too (the module, heavy housing etc)

Motohouse had helped me to re-wire and replace the key ignition with regular start up button.

As far as hot wire. I am not sure. However if you really get stuck... well, there is a kick starter on it as a part of an "emergency survival kit". It's hard to crank for the first time, but then it gets easier. I didn't really have to use it, I was just trying to test how stubborn it is. If kick starter doesn't help, maybe it's your spark plug?

[XR RON]

Quick tip on your key. Get an extra blank key from the dealer, take your new key and have it reproduced at home depot for cheap. I tried having it done from the original to the keys you buy at Home depot, but it doesn't work.

I bet I know how you broke it...... Did it have to do with your steering lock?

lmao yea it had to do with the steaing lock

[XR RON]

Well I also posted this on KTMTalk.

Posted by KevInYorks

This reply is about ignition problems, but I will leave in in for other to use

Resistance checks:

Ignition Coil

Measure Cable colours Resistance

primary coil blue/white � ground 0.30 Ω �15%

secondary coil blue/white � ignition wire 6.30 kΩ �20%

Stator

Ignition Measure cable colours Resistance

Pulser coil red � green 100 Ω� 20 Ω

4K-3B (2004 model but yours will be similar?)

Exciter black/red � red/white 15 Ω� 3 Ω

Charge coil ground � yellow 0.65 Ω � 0.15 Ω

white � yellow 0.16 Ω � 0.03 Ω

Voltage checks

Measuring conditions:

� cold engine

� seat and tank removed

� all connectors and the ground connection in a non-corroding condition, connectors tightly connected

� battery loaded (if installed) and light switch turned off

� the gap between the rotor and pulse generator must be set to 0.75 mm

� compression release lever pulled

� kick the kick starter forcefully at least 5 times for each measurement

Check the pulse generator for an output signal � two-pin connector

with green and red cable colors:

� Apply the red measuring lead to the green cable and the black measuring lead to the red cable, disconnect the CDI unit

Multimeter display: 4.5 volts +/- 0.5 volt

� Same measurement with CDI unit connected

Multimeter display: 3 volts +/- 0.5 volt

Check the generator charging coil for ignition capacitor charge � two-pin

connector with black/red and red/white cable colors :

� Apply the red measuring lead to the black/red cable and the black measuring lead to the red/white cable, disconnect the CDI unit

Multimeter display: 30 volts (35 volts for 400 SX) +/- 5 volts

� Same measurement with CDI unit connected

Multimeter display: 200 volts +/- 10 volts

Check the primary voltage output for ignition coil control for output voltage (blue/white cable color):

� Apply the red measuring lead to the black/white cable (ground) and the black measuring lead to the blue/white cable, CDI unit and ignition coil connected

Multimeter display: 200 volts +/- 10 volts

Yellow wire feeds ac to the lights, white wire charges battery (via regulator/rectifier)

Checking the generator output

Measuring conditions:

� cold engine

� seat and tank removed

� all connectors and the ground connection in a non-corroding condition, connectors tightly connected

� battery loaded (if installed) and light switch turned off

� compression release lever pulled

� kick the kick starter forcefully at least 5 times for each measurement

Check the generator output for voltage between the following cable colors:

� between yellow and brown (ground), loom disconnected

Multimeter display: 15 volts +/- 1 volt

� same measurement with loom connected

Multimeter display: 12 volts +/- 1 volt

� between white and brown (ground), loom disconnected

Multimeter display: 19 volts +/- 1 volt

� same measurement with loom connected

Multimeter display: 14 volts +/- 1 volt

NOTE: The black measuring lead of the peak voltage adapter must be

applied to the ground.

Check regulator rectifier output voltage cable colors yellow/red, regulator rectifier bk connected,

capacitor disconnected (if installed) and fuse bm removed:

� between yellow/red and brown (ground)

Multimeter display: 14 volts +/- 1 volt

NOTE:

� The black measuring lead of the peak voltage adapter must be

applied to the ground.

� For facilitation of work, the regulator rectifier bk can be detached from

the frame.

Checking the voltage regulator-rectifier

A defect voltage regulator can cause different kinds of trouble:

● No voltage in the circuit

In this case, the voltage regulator must be disconnected at idle speed.

The voltage regulator is defect if the power consumers now work

properly.

If the power consumers are still not supplied with power, the switch,

the wiring harness or the ignition system must be checked for defects.

● Excessive voltage in the circuit

The bulbs burn out. In this case the voltage regulator must be

replaced.

Checking the charging voltage

NOTE: The values stated below only apply to fully charged batteries

(minimum charging level 90%).

� Start the engine and switch on the low beam.

� Connect a voltmeter to both battery connections.

� Accelerate the engine to a speed of 5000 rpm and read the voltage.

Nominal value: 14.0 - 15.0 V

In the case of a significant deviation from the nominal value:

� Check the connector between the stator and the voltage regulatorrectifier

and the connector between the voltage regulator-rectifier and

the cable tree.

� Check the stator.

� Replace the voltage regulator-rectifier

thanks again for the tech info i will print this for sure

[XR RON]

I don't mean to be too radical, but.....

I removed anything that had related to the key activation in my 07 525 EXC the day I bought it brand new. I am not sure how much street riding you do on yours and if you have to leave it unattended in the urban areas, but I figured there is no need for a lock, whether ignition or especially fork anywhere out on the dirt. Is helps to shed off some weight too (the module, heavy housing etc)

Motohouse had helped me to re-wire and replace the key ignition with regular start up button.

As far as hot wire. I am not sure. However if you really get stuck... well, there is a kick starter on it as a part of an "emergency survival kit". It's hard to crank for the first time, but then it gets easier. I didn't really have to use it, I was just trying to test how stubborn it is. If kick starter doesn't help, maybe it's your spark plug?

yea im thinking about going to a toggle switch , but do like the idea of a locked ignition i have some new blanks on order from the ktm dealer will see

[XR RON]

I forgot my key at home before so I had to hotwire my 07. Y and W are to energize the starter button so connect them. Bl and br are to ground out the ignition so disconnect them and it will spark.

thanks thats what i figure out eventually, running again