Mobil 1 synthetic oil

Just bought a 00 WR 400 and have been looking at all the posts about Mobil 1 oil. Many of the links were no good anymore but I found a good one.

In a nutshell Mobil does not recommend using that oil in your bike. They produce motorcycle specific oils. Obviously many people have and are still using it without problems but for what it is worth they do not recomend it anymore.

g-u-t-s... spells guts.

you've got moxie, i'll give you that. your first post and you open up that pesky can-o-worms called "what oil to use?"

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f


here's a data point for you:

i have 2000 miles on my '01 WR250F and 1999.9 of them have been with mobil 1 15w50 "red cap" non-EC full synthetic. moreover, i put an '03 YZF auto-decompression cam in this past winter, and the '01 WRF cam that i took out had virtually no wear on it. other than the cam swap, i've never seen the internals of my engine nor had the clutch apart. is this the result of the oil? i don't know. but for $18/5qts at walmart you can't really go wrong here, can you? [note: your mileage may vary, etc]

He has done his homework :) That post died off when I posted that link. Our owner's manual states to use a non-friction modified oil and Mobile 1 states in that link that their auto oil is friction modified. By the way Walmart also carries the Mobile 1 motorcycle oil according to the dealer locator it that link. Your bike, your choice but those are the facts.

M1 15W-50 is not friction modified - no EC symbol on the bottle.


> Your bike, your choice but those are the facts.

check your math ace; as pointed out above, Mobil 1 15W50 "Red Cap" is a non-EC/"non-friction modified" oil. the API circle printed on the back of the bottle is your rosetta stone.

you can also check the table about half way down the page in this link and you'll see the non-EC designation.

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

Oops :) sorry about that, I did not know that one. They grouped all the others into automotive oil. But checking through the MSDS for both the motorcylcle does show some advantages in a higher viscosity at 100°C and slightly higher levels of anit-wear agents (zinc).

My baby is still getting red cap....

I haven't seen a good reason to change yet. If Walmart starts carrying a 5 qt jug of the MX4T for something close to what the 15w50 goes for, then I'm right on it. But, until then.... :)

I thought with the use of a wet clutch that semi-synthetics were OK but nut fully synthetics due to excessive clutch slipage. :)

Smoke :D

2000+KM on my new '02 YZF and it the last 1500 were under the protection of Mobil 1 15W-50 'Red Cap'. Friction modifiers? If there were modifiers in this oil not one of us would make it out of the pits - not one..

> I thought with the use of a wet clutch that semi-synthetics

> were OK but nut fully synthetics due to excessive clutch slipage.

this is actually a common misperception, and is often repeated as some kind of mantra by folks here on thumpertalk.

motor oil that you buy is made up of two basic constituents: the base stock, and an additive package.

first, let's talk about the base stock for a bit...

the base stock can be petroleum-derived, that is, made by refining naturally occurring crude oil (the process is called "cracking"). alternatively, the base stock can be synthesized by complex polymerization of basic hydrocarbons. while from many standpoints a synthetic base oil is superior to a petroleum base oil, the capital required to do the synthesizing process on a large scale make synthetics much more expensive on a volume basis. as an extreme example, it is certainly not (currently) economically viable to synthesize home heating oil -- in fact, it would take more energy to make the synthetic heating oil than the oil would produce when burned.

there are of course motor oils that are hybrids, that is the oil in the bottle is a mixture of both petroleum oil and synthetic oil. some manufacturers call these hybrid oils "blends" or "semi-synthetics". the argument for this approach is that you can get the benefits of the synthetic base without having to pay for a whole bottle of it. purists counter that this is like mixing a small amount of very good wine with a large amount of much cheaper wine -- what you get is not necessarily "better wine".

as an aside, there are several different methods for making synthetic oil, and there are pros and cons to the various products. so you may hear terms like Group III esters, PAO's, and so forth.

ok, now that we've talked about bases we can discuss additive packages.

just as the term sounds, additive packages are complex mixtures of chemicals added to the base stock, which as you now know could be petroleum, synthetic, or a blend. the additive package could include anti-foaming agents, zinc for metal-to-metal galling protection, viscosity improvers which extend the range of temperatures the base oil can tolerate, detergents/surfacants, friction reducing/mileage increasing compounds such as moly, and a million other possible things. as you can imagine these additive packages are the "secret sauce" from an oil company's perspective -- and thus the makeup of their additive cocktails are usually kept under tight wraps. inasmuch as the major players (ExxonMobil, Shell, BP, etc) drill for and refine oil, there are a number of smaller, unheard of to you and me, companies which blend the additive packages. these smaller guys pay ChemEng's with PhD's a boatload of money so that you and i can drive 5000, 7500, maybe 10K miles without an oil change, and under conditions (heat, load, etc) that would quickly task the base oil.

so now we have the complete story -- the motor oil you buy at the store is made up of a base oil plus an additve package. and so, it's not the base oil that causes problems with wet clutches in motorcycles. regardless of whether the base oil was natural or synthetic, if the additive package contains *significant amounts* of moly or other friction reducing compounds, problems with wet clutches can arise.

again, to reiterate, regardless of whether the base is petroleum, blended, or straight synthetic, as long as the additive package does not contain friction reducing additives the oil should be suitable for wet clutch applications. a byproduct of this maxim is that there are even straight petroleum oils that are NOT suited for wet clutch use.

much much much more information on oil can be found at various lubrication industry websites, and also at the following excellent online forum

it's sort of like thuumpertalk for "oil people" with obsessive compulsive disorder... :)

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

My wr has mobil 1 [15w50 red cap ] in it , and i run 10w30[green cap ] in my 1988 GL 1500 Goldwing and it has over 1 hundred thousand miles on it and my clutch dosent slip at all [wet clutch ]and i think if it caused trouble with the clutch i would know it by now , and i also pull a trailor from time to time witch ads a lot of stress to the transmission [clutch ] maybe im just lucky with the wing but it works for me .

In my best Pulp Fiction voice:

"Check out the big brain on wrooster"

Good info wrooster!!! :)

Thanks wrooster! Just like to stir the pot a little.

Don't know about Mobil 1 synthetic but I've always run Amsoil synthetics in all my bikes. If it's motorcycle specific, there should be no problem. Wear is much less using synthetics on my bikes and my cars.

i have tried alot of oils and the best one that I have found is the new silkolene 4t . WORKS AWSOME. :):D

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