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How to remove delete DRZ400 starter gear gears clutch kick start conversion convert

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If you convert your DRZ400 to kick-start-only (a great idea) and you do not remove the entire starter gear reduction set and starter clutch under the stator cover then you will not realize the full weight savings of the conversion. By removing everything related to the starter you will also lose some unwanted rotating mass from the engine.

There is 1 gear (medium sized/called a back torque limiter) with two bushings and two washers under the starter access cover (small cover held in place by 3 small phillips-head bolts), and there are 2 gears (one small and one large) under the stator cover. The large one is behind the flywheel and engages the starter clutch. The small one (idler) rides on a shaft (idler shaft). The starter clutch mounts to the backside of the flywheel and should also be removed. This will significantly lighten the flywheel for quicker revs and better acceleration. Also, even though the starter clutch and the large starter gear behind the flywheel float on bearings they still add a very small amount of friction which will be emiminated by removing them.

You need to pull the flywheel off to remove the large starter gear and starter clutch. When you pull the flywheel the large starter gear may come off with it since the large gear engages the starter clutch on the flywheel's backside. If the large gear does not come off with the flywheel and starter clutch then slide the large starter gear off of the crank by hand. It's bearing will come off with it since it is pressed into the large gear. You will then see an oil feed port on the crank snout under where the bearing used to be. The absence of the bearing will cause a loss of oil pressure via the port but the solution is simple. Go to a good hardware store and buy a 25mm I.D. bronze bushing that's about 1.5" long or longer. The crank snout is 25mm in diameter so the bronze bushing will fit snugly over it. It will also cover the oil feed port. Cut it to length and slide it onto the crank in place of the large starter gear. Bronze is easy to cut so a hacksaw will make quick work of it or you can use a precision cutting instrument if you choose. The bronze bushing does not need to be precisely cut since its sole purpose is to cover the oil feed port. It merely needs to be short enough to fit behind the flywheel but not so short that it exposes the oil port. The bushing I installed on my E model is just over 1 inch long (roughly 30mm) and has about 1/16" of end-play (thrust clearance) which is totally acceptable. The end-play can only be checked with the flywheel in place. I started with a bushing 50mm long and shortened it by small increments untill the flywheel would fit properly. You see, if the bushing is too long it will prevent the flywheel from seating on the crank snout. If your bushing fits tight then it will spin with the crank which is no problem but if it spins easily on the crank then there are still no worries since it is fed a constant supply of oil via the oil feed port underneath it. I have done 3 DRZ400 electric-to-kick conversions this way and the bushings fit tightly on all 3. I did not have any measuring tools around me at those times (my bad) so please forgive my lack of precise measurements. Reinstall the flywheel and marvel at all of the extra room behind it.

The idler shaft (roughly 2 1/2" long and roughly 3/8" diameter) that the small starter (idler) gear rides on should be reinstalled to prevent a similar loss of oil pressure due to the presence of an oil feed port inside the hole in the left crankcase that the shaft slides into. Look inside. You will see it. Without the idler shaft in place there will be nothing to stop the loss of oil pressure from that little port. Simply reinstall the idler shaft back into its original position without the idler gear and without the idler gear's shim. There is another shim on the idler shaft that is between the shaft's circlip (e-clip) and left crankcase. Reinstall that shim in its original position so that the idler shaft does not have excessive end-play.

When you're finished you will have removed one large gear, starter clutch and its six hex-key bolts, one idler gear, one idler gear shim, one medium gear (back torque limiter) and its two bushings with two washers.

There is now no loss of engine oil pressure and the combined weight of the starter gear reduction set and starter clutch is about 3-4 pounds. Granted, that is not very much in weight reduction but every ounce counts!

You will also get to enjoy the reduction of rotating mass from the flywheel and elimination of friction (minute as it may be) from the starter clutch and large starter gear's bearing. The improvement is minor but its there. There should also be a negligible increase in fuel economy.

I found hard black plastic plugs at a local hardware store that fit the starter hole in the stator cover nicely and I have no concerns about them coming out or leaking because they fit very tight. I promise they don't look cheesy.

Forget about using a K model (kick only) stator cover unless you also use a K model crank, flywheel, and stator. The experts say that those K-model parts will not fit unless used together.

Prost.

Edited by FurDieEhre
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If doing the sudo kicker deal,, your plan is one of the better I've seen.:smirk:

I assume you also removed the battery, installed a capacitor, stripped the wiring harness of extra wire, changes the switch controls for the simpler non e start versions? if not,, have a look out at those options as well.

If you get a chance to ride a real kicker, do it.. you will love the faster revving motor vice even your modified E start one.

Those considering doing this.. Just plan ahead.... keep your eye out for a parted DRZ kicker motor,, snag the cover and stator, buy a new kicker Stroker crank HR PN 4259, Cylinder works BB kit 41001-K01 and do a fresh motor build :p

When your done you will have a REAL light rotating assembly 4mm stroked, 4mm Bigbore motor.

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Sorry mickeydee, I have no pictures.

bronco78, KILLER idea on the kick-only stroker crank!

Edited by FurDieEhre

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My battery just died so I am considering converting my E to a kick only machine. Shed the weight and make life difficult for anyone attempting to steal my bike. :rant:

Have done a lot of research on the subject but still have a couple of questions.

1. The aforementioned oil passage blocking methods sound like the right thing to do but have not been advised in any other thread, even if the starter clutch and associated gears were to be removed. Should they be followed?

[bronco78 if I was certain you were referring to them in your reply I wouldn't be asking, just need to doublecheck...:smirk:]

2. Is it alright if I leave my harness as is, keep the starter relay and just replace the battery with a capacitor or a smaller battery?

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1. The aforementioned oil passage blocking methods sound like the right thing to do but have not been advised in any other thread, even if the starter clutch and associated gears were to be removed. Should they be followed?

If your going to do the conversion, removing the starter clutch and replaceing it with a bronze bushing is a good idea...

2. Is it alright if I leave my harness as is, keep the starter relay and just replace the battery with a capacitor or a smaller battery?

Yes you could do that. :smirk:

And use a Trail Tech light flywheel

And remove all unneeded wiring.

Swap a kicker sub frame.

Replace the crank, stator, left side cover.

Any, all non of the above. :rant:

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If your going to do the conversion, removing the starter clutch and replaceing it with a bronze bushing is a good idea...

Yes you could do that. :smirk:

And use a Trail Tech light flywheel

And remove all unneeded wiring.

Swap a kicker sub frame.

Replace the crank, stator, left side cover.

Any, all non of the above. :p

Thanks for the answers Bronco, much appreciated! :rant:

I am not considering turning it into a proper K model....

ive got everything to convert your motor to a real kicker motor.

.... I will save my money for a proper SSW head when the time for rebuild comes! :lol::p

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When you guys say capacitor what capacitor would be needed? and how does it hook up? same as a battery pos. and neg. poles?

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