Hebo Hydraulic Clutch Photos

Just thought I'd post this here also (originally on the WR forum):

Here are a few pictures of the first pass installation of my Hebo "juice" clutch. The installation was a snap! I haven't had a chance to try it....even up and down the street, but the clutch action is smooth and light. Definately a one finger clutch.


Here's what the clutch lever/mastercylinder looks like. I switched the compression release to outside the mastercylinder - it really gets a little tight over there.


and from the front:


I'll let you know how it works when I get a chance to really ride it.

If you are thinking about one of these - erider is having a sale that is over at the end of Feb. They say they have about 6 left at $167. www.erider.ws (I'm just a customer - no ties to erider at all)

Michael- thanks for the effort. I'm looking forward to a ride report...

Micheal, will the master cylinder be in the way for a set of bark busters ?

I took a spin on a 660 Raptor and the clutch pull on it is twice as light as the 426, whats up with that ?

The only time I need the light pull is for stomping the back brake in the air......Its a bitch to pull while flying for me.

How many other hyd. clutches are on the market for the 426 ?

Sorry for all the questions, keep us posted on the feel of the new clutch.


Jason #67

Beaumont, Tx.

By the way, how do you like your steering dampner ?

[This message has been edited by jaybird67k (edited 02-25-2001).]

Mike - No problem....I do like working on these bikes!

Jaybird - I have a set of Cycra's bark busters coming - I have got some concerns about the fit, but I think I can change the angle of the hydraulic line and get enough clearance to get the mounts on the bars. We'll see. There is one other hydraulic clutch on the market that I know of - Magura. It has a nice integrated compression release built into the mastercylinder - but it is supposed to be more than $300 and not as smooth as the Hebo (I've heard from people who rode with both). It has a mention in the WR test in the March issue of Dirt Bike.

The Hebo is very light feel - silky smooth. It is significantly lighter than the KLX 300 or the CR 250 that are in the garage. I just had a chance to run up and down the street and it feels great - but the real test is "real" riding. I do mostly trail and enduro type riding - and a light pull helps after a long day of tight trails. I'll let you all know.

If you haven't riden with a damper - it is a treat! I only have a couple of rides with it - but you don't really know it's there most of the time - the bike just doesn't beat you up much (hey - I'm getting old). Then I was jammin' through a whooped out section of river bed (big old nasty rocks) and hit a huge rock in the middle of two whoops. The head shook once or twice (like I was in for a tank slapping experience) then it just settled out and I kept blasting. These things are sweet! For us WR riders the three best things we can do for the handling of our bikes (IMHO) is:

1) change to a YZ tank & seat so we can move forward

2) Scott's damper

3) Juice clutch

It's just my $.02 (and you get change)

I just ordered a Hebo hyd clutch after reading your post and seeing the photos. I have been himming and hahing over buyi8ng a hydraulic clutch since I broke both my wrists in September. I rode for the first time in 6 months last weekend and decided it'll be money well spent. Looks like you did a quality job putting it on. How did you get it through the guide on the frame? How long did it take to get the Hebo after you ordered it?


99' YZ400F

PK - If you ordered from erider - he shipped mine within 48 hours and it came 3 day priority mail (USPS). Got to the left coast SF Bay Area in less tan a week.

There are several ways to route the hydraulic line. First it is fully serviced and ready to go - so don't disconnect unless you want to do the bleeding thing! I attached the mastercylinder and just fished the slave cylinder and the line the best way I could see - through the forks - under the potted finned electrical device (don't know what it is - the silver device on the left side - removed it routed the cable and reattached it) - over the top of the radiator and slipped behind the hose - and I was there. I did unbolt the left side radiator to get some working room. The instructions (even the translated ones) are not the best.....but feel free to email me and I'll give you my phone number - I can talk you through it. I did the mechanical install in 30 minutes one night, and finished the adjustments in 15 to 20 the next evening......very easy.

Good luck - I think you'll like working with Kevin at erider - very nice guy! Wish he carried more Yamaha stuff.

Thanks for the tip Mike, I just ordered mine on line from E-Rider so I didn't get a chance to converse with the guys there. I was out tinkering with my 400 and I came up with my plan to route the cable. I may give ya a buzz if I hit any snags. I live just outside of Sacramento so I will hopefully see the clutch assembly early next week. Can't wait. Thanks again for the tip, $169 is a fantastic deal. For once my procrastination paid off.


Glad to hear it all worked out. My Brother-in-law ordered one last Thursday - received it today.

I ordered one today and there were only 3 left. He said he was ordering more, but I would get one while they are at a great price. They were super nice and helpful too.

i think i now need a steering damper, [broken scaphoid on sunday]

is the fact the scotts damper mounts on top of the bars a problem,,,[no pad]

ive never hit this pad,, but at the same time wouldnt wanna be slamming my face into the dials on the damper

after all seen how much replacement bits are????

Sandracer - Sorry to hear you injuried yourself Sunday! I thought the F & M outbreak was a serious impact to your racing....anyway take me wishes for a speedy recovery.

I don't think there is that much to break on the top of the Scott's, the knobs are alloy. I hear that point alot - no crossbar pad - but I don't feel like that is much of an issue. Seems like there lots of sharp nasty places on a bike that will hurt you - you can't pad them all. Seems like a damper that helps you avoid the getting into a position that requires a pad is a good tradeoff. If the lack of a pad really bugs you - the WER unit mounts between the front fender and the lower triple clamp. While I don't think it is as good a system as the Scott's - it is cheaper, and the folks that own it are generally happy with it. Just my $.02

Got a Scotts damper on my 01 426. All you need to do it trim out the back of the crossbar pad where the damper is and cut part of the pad cover to match. Works great and can not even tell it was modified. May not be as easy to make damper adjustments on the fly though.


Pull off the damper “arm,” rotate 180 degrees and reinstall. This will allow you to mount the Scott’s backwards.

Voila, your crossbar now clears the damper and the controls are accessible, even with the bar pad on. If you ask Scott’s will ship your damper with the arm on “backwards.” You supposedly need 40mm of clearance twixt bar mount and crossbar but I’ve found as little as 37mm will suffice.

You guys are absolutely correct. I got the Pro Taper package so I wasn't thinking about it - but there is the option for standard bars.......

Thanks for adding that!

I just finished installing the Hebo hydraulic clutch I bought from E-rider. It didn't take me no 30 minutes. More like 2 hours. I had it all on, but then I decided to use the original clutch cable routing so I yanked everything off and started over. I also put the lever and compression release on in a variety of different ways trying to come up with the best set up. I wound up putting the compression release lever at the bottom mainly due to the fact I have some bark busters and for cable routing. All in all I would say the clutch pull is significantly improved and well worth the money. Also, the photos and helpful tips Michael posted were of a big help. Thanks...

Now if I could find a mount so the slave cylinder is secured more rigidly I would be set.


99 YZ 400

I really think I spent about 30 minutes the first night, and adjusted in about 20.....but I lose track of time when I'm working on my bike.

Any way PK - I'm glad you are up and running. I did post kinda a step by step on the adjustment process on the WR forum. If you would read it and see if it matches your process - add notes as appropriate - that would be cool. Nice to get a good set on instructions for people to use.

Originally posted by PK: I also put the lever and compression release on in a variety of different ways trying to come up with the best set up. I wound up putting the compression release lever at the bottom

Watch out having that compression lever on the bottom, you could hit it in the air or on a landing with your knee. I have a friend who did major engine damage this way and is now parting his out..

I installed a HEBO Clutch on my WR426 with standard RENTHALL CR HI bend bars and had no problem mounting clutch and compression lever in top position, also have ENDURO ENGINEERING Hand Guards.

Damn, maybe I should go back out in the garage and fool around some more with the compression release some more. You got me nervous now. I'm gonna have to find a happy medium I guess. Thanks for the heads up.


I am seariously interested in a hydraulic, a friend has the KTM 400 with a wet clutch and its sweet..no arm pump at all... I get arm pump 10 min in to my rides... I had one on several of my road bikes and always liked the way they felt..

Question: What is involved in the install? Does it require any internal work or is it stricktly external? What adjusting is required - Bleeding etc? Is this basic mechanical work or more advanced?



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