Triple Clamp Install

I need some tips on how to Install a new set of Applied triple clamps, both top and bottom. I am not the most mechanically oriented person so any help is much appreciated.



If you have the manual you'll find that it is very good at walking you through the whole process of removing the front end.

Couple things to remember;

1. Use a torque wrench if you can

2. Use locktite on the screw that attach the front fender

3. Take special care to make sure that both forks stick out the top of the top clamp the same amount. If you are running mostly high speed stuff 3rd 4th anf 5th gear stuff you might want to think about running them 1-2mm up. If you are running tight stuff you can run them 5-10mm. I ride alot of varried terrain and found that 6mm works great (although I do run a Scotts stabilizer, so head shake isn't a problem).

Good Luck!


JJ from WA - 99 WR; WR timed, EKN Needle, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Michelin S-12's, Terry Cable hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Factory Effex graphics, YZ IMS seat base, YZ Factory Effex seat foam and gripper seat cover, YZ rear fender

Thanks for the tips. I'm kind of like Tom Cruise in Days of Thunder, I can ride this thing like no tommorow, I just don't no how to do much other than change the oil after every 2 rides. The wife is getting pissed that I spend so much $$ at MotoPro having them do all of the tough stuff. I am going to give it a try this afternoon, as they are calling for rain in SO CAL on Sunday and want to ride on Saturday.

Keep The Shred Alive and thanks again!


Did the clamp come with a stem? If not you may need a press to fit your stock stem to the bottom clamp. You should use a torque wrench on the pinch bolts, the spec. ain’t all that tight and too much oomph could squish your fork tubes. The manual also gives a torque spec. for the bottom (funny shaped) stem nut, this is only to seat the bearing. I believe the procedure called for says to torque to X, loosen and then torque to Y, where Y is MUCH smaller than X.

At any rate this is moot unless you buy a special tool that allows you to put a torque wrench on the bottom nut. Advising anybody to ignore a torque spec. is probably irresponsible but I’m going to do so anyway, just use a pipe wrench to snug this bolt and ensure proper bearing placement, then loosen it until the forks/clamps/steering will “fall” against the steering stop with a nudge. Then check for fore/aft play in the front end. What you want to do is eliminate the play without overly binding the bearings (which you might as well clean and grease while you’ve got ‘em out).

Then go ahead and torque the top nut, which goes above the top clamp, and is a normal hex head.

If I were you I’d remove both fork tubes first but leave the axle and wheel on, but you may find this overly awkward. Then replace clamps, then forks and set the bearing tension, then put the top clamp on. I’m thinking that leaving the front axle in place will help you properly align fork depth in the clamps. BTW it is easier to take the brake off the bars than the caliper off the forks.

Another tip not for type-A folks is you can leave all the remaining controls on your bars, just flop the whole mess over the front of the bike. Make sure you note the original cable/hose placement, leaving everything on the bars helps but you can still end up with something on the wrong side of a fork tube, and if that something is a decompression or throttle cable bad things may happen to you or your bike. I serviced the steering bearings on my 500 once and then almost rode the thing, WOT, into my roomate’s bedroom (via the garage) at the close of my (very short) test ride. I learned that clutches and kill buttons aren’t as effective at redline as they are at idle (but thankfully brakes are)…

Hope this helps.

JW, JJ is correct in that the manual is very good at detailing the procedure. This is a relatively simple thing to do. The hardest part will most likely be pressing the stem out of your original bottom clamp and into the new bottom clamp. Use great care with the threads on the stem as they can be easily damaged. If unsure have someone familiar with this assist. Once you have the stem and bottom bearing pressed on and you're ready to put everything back together, Install the clamps in the steering tube to check fit. Once you've got that all straight, you can put everything back together. Be sure that while you're adjusting the steering head, leave the bolts loose on the top clamp. Hope this helps. I guess I was typing as Hick was posting his reply. As usual, his mechanical advise is very good also. If I haven't repeated what he said, I hope what I've added will help also. Good luck! Patience is the best attribute to a good mechanic!

[This message has been edited by dirtdad (edited 03-02-2001).]

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