6v to 12v conversion CB/XL/SL 125

The link is not working for me...

i just got done doing my 6v to 12v on my 82 xl185 and ill i needed was a 12v reg.rec and 12v lights and battery and its done no rewinding

Yes, I've done the same as you isaacson on my '74 CB125 motor with a standard (not rewound) alternator. It's been running on 12v for about 500 miles now with a 35w halogen headlight and heated grips.

I bought a Royal Endield regulator/rectifier off ebay for £12, then all I did

was connect the yellow and white wires out the alternator together to one side

of the AC input and the pink wire to the other side , then obviously the 12v

regulated DC output to a 4.5Ah battery.

Changed the coil and all lamps except the headlamp and indicators to LED and all works fine. I did 160 miles last time out, running with headlamp and Symtec heated grips on

all day with no problems. As long as the revs are above 4000rpm with everything

on then the battery is charging.

In the linked article the guy has rewound the alt to put out about 120 watts.

Is that the write-up from the Yahoo!Group for CB125's? Posted by 'erde_lied'? If so, that's an excellent write-up and a first-class job he did. He and I discussed it off and on during his project. That way is really the 'proper' way to do the job, but as noted, maybe a bit of overkill. :thumbsup:

Otherwise, the only other bike I've converted from 6-volt to 12-volt was a 1978 Honda CM185T Twinstar, which has virtually the identical set-up as the early Honda SL/XL/CL/CB 100 and 125 singles. On the Twinstar, all I did was swap out all the bulbs and the battery itself. I commuted over 10k miles on that conversion with no problems at all. The starter spun a little faster than usual, but that was the only clue. I never changed ignition coils or anything.

But again, my commute at that time was 30 miles of nearly non-stop 55mph, so the engine was really spinning the whole time. If one were to have a slow-speed, 'round town commute with lots of low-rpm riding, I don't think it would've kept the battery charged up.

On all the early Hondas that used a permanent-magnet rotor, whenever the lights are switched "ON", the yellow and white wires are connected together and they function just as Craig10 hard-wired.

Just my thoughts...

Kirk

Yes, I've done the same as you isaacson on my '74 CB125 motor with a standard (not rewound) alternator. It's been running on 12v for about 500 miles now with a 35w halogen headlight and heated grips.

I bought a Royal Endield regulator/rectifier off ebay for £12, then all I did

was connect the yellow and white wires out the alternator together to one side

of the AC input and the pink wire to the other side , then obviously the 12v

regulated DC output to a 4.5Ah battery.

Changed the coil and all lamps except the headlamp and indicators to LED and all works fine. I did 160 miles last time out, running with headlamp and Symtec heated grips on

all day with no problems. As long as the revs are above 4000rpm with

everything

on then the battery is charging.

In the linked article the guy has rewound the alt to put out about 120 watts.

craig10 is it weird that i have 1 hot wire coming out of my stator? and it puts out really good ac volts. thats the wire im using to power my reg/rec and charge the battery. do u think it will be ok ?

craig10 is it weird that i have 1 hot wire coming out of my stator? and it puts out really good ac volts. thats the wire im using to power my reg/rec and charge the battery. do u think it will be ok ?

Your bike has a 'grounded' single AC charging coil. Some charging coils are ungrounded, and both ends of the windings come out. Others, like yours, are grounded at one end (typically, right inside at the stator core) and only one wire comes out.

In your case, the rectifier output is only half what it would be if it were it were the two-wire kind. But, if that output is still enough to do what you need it to do, there are no worries.

Enjoy!

Kirk

Isaacson, as Kirk says, if it's working ok I wouldn't worry about it.

Kirk, yes the link is to the erde_lied article, a really professional job. Only really necessary though if you want to run a lot of load though like an H4 headlamp, heated grips etc.

By the way, are you the Kirk that was doing the 'hop-up' on the SL125? Just wondering if you just used the Dremel to relieve the valve pockets in the piston crown, how did you get on with that?

I'm currently getting the bits together to put an XL185 crank and barrel on an XL125, hope to have it up and running early next year. Hoping to machine out the casings over Christmas, I've only got a lathe so I'll need to be inventive...

Before I got my Bridgeport mill I used the lathe for almost everything. If I was boring cases on a lathe I would bolt them to ths cross slide and put the boring head or cutter in the chuck. Just a thought.

Is the 185 crank and cyl. a bolt in part other than the sleeve dia.? I'm looking for a cheap way to hop up my 75 TL 125.

How can I find the write up on rewinding the stator? I'm looking for instructions to keep the same out put but at a much lower rpm.

By the way, are you the Kirk that was doing the 'hop-up' on the SL125? Just wondering if you just used the Dremel to relieve the valve pockets in the piston crown, how did you get on with that?

Yep, that's me, and unfortunately, that exactly where the project STILL remains. I installed the big-bore piston and had the cylinder bored to accept the new big-bore cylinder liner and....

got distracted by other projects. Sigh.

But, one of these days I'll get back to it. That's still the plan - using a Dremel to relieve the valve pockets in the piston crown.

You've got quite a memory! :thumbsup:

Kirk

How can I find the write up on rewinding the stator? I'm looking for instructions to keep the same out put but at a much lower rpm.

The write-up is posted on a Yahoo!Group site dedicated to Honda CB100s and CB125s (and all the small singles, really). I think you have to join the group to have access to the "Files" section.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CB125/

Basically, you use a heat gun to soften the epoxy coating on the stock windings and manually unwind all the old wiring. Then, using "magnet wire" of suitable diameter, wind wind wind wind and wind some more until it's a nice newly wound stator. Fairly straightforward. Supposedly, it all takes about one weekend.

Good luck with it!

Kirk

I'm looking for a cheap way to hop up my 75 TL 125.

Pick up one of the Lifan 200cc chinese motors. They're a virtual bolt-in for the SL/CL/CB/XL/TL 100 and 125 motors. The four lower motor mounts are identical and you can just leave the upper cylinder head mount off entirely.

With some electrical wiring updates, you get 200cc, 12-volts and electric start!

And the Chinese 200cc motors aren't THAT bad. If you don't really BEAT on 'em... :thumbsup:

For the file, join the http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CB125/

or PM me your email and I'll email you the pdf file.

I'm hoping the 185 will be a straight fit after boring the cases but might be a palaver getting the comp ratio and cam chain tension right. I believe the 185 crank goes straight into the 125 cases, I'll let you know how I get on.

Good article on big-bore TL here http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/8135-honda-tl200-build/page__p__74694__hl__xr200__fromsearch__1#entry74694

Just got back from a weekend of riding the TL & found the TL info. Thanks for sharing that. There is a lot of info listed that I have been wondering about and would of had to learn from trial and error.

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