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91 XR80 Flywheel re-assembly

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I took the flywheel off and the timing advancer all came apart, it can be mounted with the lobe in 2 different locations. I put new rings in the bike and can't get it running. Thanks for any helpful replies.

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Interesting. Honda never had ignition advance on the 91 XR80. Better post some pics.

All XR80's from 1979-1992 used an ignition advancer inside the flywheel.

I would just get a CDI ignition off ebay. You can get a complete one for about $175. It includes everything you need: backing plate, stator, flywheel, harness, CDI, coil.

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All XR80's from 1979-1992 used an ignition advancer inside the flywheel.

I would just get a CDI ignition off ebay. You can get a complete one for about $175. It includes everything you need: backing plate, stator, flywheel, harness, CDI, coil.

Care to share a pic?

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This is a complete CDI ignition for an XR80 for 1993-present. This will also work on 1977-78 XR75's and 1979-1992 XR80's as a points ignition replacement. If you put this on a points motor you will say goodbye to all your ignition problems forever. It's the best thing you can do to increase the reliability of the early motors. This is everything you need to convert it. Simply bolt on and go. You can also use this for an XR100, but you will need the XR100 backing plate, seal, and o-ring. You must have a little mechanical know how and a flywheel puller to do the job, but it's only about a 15-30 minute job. The good news is, you will never ever have to worry about points or timing ever AGAIN.

DSCF0322.JPG

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I have good spark, but wonder if it timed correctly. The collar came off the back of the rotor and I am not sure if I put it back on correctly. Should the hump line up with the timing marks or the low spot?

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Spark means nothing if it doesn't advance properly or has the wrong initial timing. You can fuss with it all you like, but you would do yourself a big favor and get a CDI. This raod has been travel many times.

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I have good spark, but wonder if it timed correctly. The collar came off the back of the rotor and I am not sure if I put it back on correctly. Should the hump line up with the timing marks or the low spot?

Sorcal only thinks in CDI ........... he's not much help on points! (Easy now sorcal ......... that's not a insult!):ride: "CDI's are great"............. but, wars were won and nations were fed with points.:blah:

You could have the cam a half turn off, here's how to find out. When the piston is coming up on compresssion (both valves closed) the points should break contact at the F mark on the flywheel. Best way to check this is with a ohm meter or continutiy light. (Forget feeler gauges!) When timed this way you'll be in the .012 - .016 range .......... just more accurate and way easier to get there!:thumbsup:

Old School Al

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Yes Al wars were won, but now we're in the 21st century with laser guided missiles and super sophisticated electronics. We leave the the points to the Russians and the tali-ban. BTW where were you at Washugal?

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Yes Al wars were won, but now we're in the 21st century with laser guided missiles and super sophisticated electronics. We leave the the points to the Russians and the tali-ban. BTW where were you at Washugal?

:thinking:I don't know ...... the Russians are in on the space station with us aren't they?

What are you talking about?:thumbsup: "The tali-ban" ............. donkeys don't have points!

Nope, I headed for the hills that weekend.

Old School Al

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I am back to working on this bike. I have photos and videos, now. I am getting a pop out of the exhaust, but it still won't start. I took it apart and honed the cylinder. I now have 120psi compression, the o on the cam gear is at 12 oclock, the flywheel is at T.

Reading back I still need to check the timming like Al said. We still have more than 2' of snow on the ground in MA, but I want to get this bike out of the basement to move in another one. I am not sure how to add my photos.

Q: Does this bike spark/fire on both strokes?

As always thanks for all your help.

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